PART
NINETEEN
On
the road again. I do believe it will be an easy Tour.
For
travelling my options are the train, the bus, the car and eventually
a cheap flight.
For
my accommodations my plans are the CouchSurfing community and any
Youth Hostels.
The
map is East Europe and South Europe, with a loop from Germany to
Germany. As it is summer time the packing will be light : a sweat and
a light jacket for the cool weather, a poncho for the rain, a pair of
boots (I always carry a pair of closed shoes) a pair of sandals
and 3 of each body clothes, a bathing suit, a cap, a
little bag with toilet accessories . I have the habit of washing my
light clothing in the sink with warm water and soap, it’s good
enough. Now a days the most important and precious carrying are the
electronic devices ; tablet, cell-phone, wires... I will use my
tablet as a camera and GPS and computer... My telephone won’t be of
too much use as it will be excessively expensive to use it out side
France.
My
planning is clear until Slovenia, after that I will adapt day by day.
But
I did buy a Global Pass on trains for 22 days, still the cheapest and
easiest way of travelling in Europe. 484€ for 22 days consecutive,
only free on slow trains, we have to add 10€ for each Speed train.
The
first show will be in Mainz on the 20th of
July.
Unfortunately
the Train Global Pass doesn’t work for me in France as I am a
French resident.
So,
plan B is car sharing with Bla Bla car.
First
from Angers to Paris then Paris to Frankfurt (the closest biggest
city to Mainz).
I
leave my home town on the 19th of
July.
The
ride is perfect until Paris. When I check my email at the closest
Starbucks Cafe I have a message from the second driver telling me he
won’t be able to drive to Frankfurt.
Oh
no! Already stuck.
I
request rapidly another ride and I am fortunate enough to have a ride
available one hour later and I am most relieved when I realize the
ride is precisely from the train station I am in.
Great!
Finally the driver, after 5 hours, will drop me at the train station
in Mainz in the early evening. For 60€ I reached my destination.
My
first CouchSurfing host will come and pick me up at the station. We
share a glass of wine and a toast of cheese. I have my first night on
a couch, comfortable and safe.
I
The
20th of
July MAINZ
Today
is THE day, the first one of a long journey with a show almost
everyday, so, moving every day for 3 weeks.
Of
course the Fans are chatting on Facebook. The main discussion is
about the Setlist. A lot expect a changing. This is none of my
concern since I’ve decided, any way, not to buy any ticket. A free
show is always a great show. So, my concern is more the
logistic of the trip : travelling and sleeping.
I
meet, in the early afternoon,at the train station, Johannes. Irene
and Ushi will join us later.
There
is a pre-meeting organized in a Cafe with some Fans. The streets are
full of festive people. There is a Fair in Mainz.
We
spend the afternoon chatting and then I walk alone to the venue.
It
is an open air show but seated.
A
nice woman hands me a ticket as her husband is sick and
was unable to make it to the show. She is from Ireland.
The
show is supposed to start at 9 p.m. but in fact it will be
9:30 p.m. when Stu will appear strumming his guitar.
The
5 first songs are as usual but then I hear a tune I don’t
recognize. Bob starts “Ramona come closer...”. Whoa! To Ramona
revisited! More unusual songs will follow.
"Sad
songs and waltzes" (unrecognized by me) is a Willie Nelson song.
"
'till I fell in love with you". A song I hardly know.
At
last a change. I am far from the stage but delighted. That promises a
great Tour!
The
first rows are reacting to every change but the average audience
doesn’t pay attention. The public is a mixed of young
and old, a lot different from the last American tour with
an average of ‘old’ Dylan Fans.
I
rapidly catch a shuttle bus then a night bus to my destination. I was
afraid to be late but the show was only 1 hour and a half with only
17 songs and no intermission. The kind of ‘festival setlist’ Bob
did in Europe previously. Does it mean we will have an outdoor
setlist and another indoor setlist? But remember that Bobby Dylan has
absolutely no logic!
When
I reach the Julia’s CS apartment 2 other Fans are sharing the room
with me.
We
chat until late in the night. I finally crash on the couch at 2 a.m.
I
don’t remember if I had any food that day...a Bretzel, maybe!
II
21th of July TUBINGEN.
It’s
an early morning start to the train station, the next stop is
Tubingen.
I
have a CS Host as well. Brigit will wait for me at her balcony to
show me the way upstairs and to my room (private). We share around a
cup of tea then I contact Johannes so we can both walk out in the
beautiful little city. We eat a pizza, we chat, we relax.
I
go back to my room to get ready and I have the excellent intuition to
bring my rain poncho with me.
It
starts raining as soon as I reach the venue and will not stop raining
until morning. Unfortunately it is an outdoor concert. It is also
General Admission, but I decided some while ago not to queue anymore
; too much time wasted, too much stress, too much tension among the
Bobcats...I won’t compete or fight!
I
find myself a free ticket, one for Tim and one for Franky. It was
easy as no one will care to stay in the rain to try selling.
I
am surrounded by a crowd of 5 or 6 thousands. To my surprise the
security accepts people getting in with umbrellas. That will be a
problem. There is no way for me to get close to the stage. I try to
get a spot on the left side of the stage, far away, but I have
absolutely no visibility between the tall persons and the umbrellas.
I can hear another outdoor setlist. “Blind Willy Mc Tell”,
“Shelter from the storm” (right in the spirit!)...I was expecting
“The Levee’s gonna break” or “High water” (with that kind
of weather!).
There
will be no intermission and this time it is all for the best. We are
all drenched to the bones.
I
meet with Maxime, a young French Fan, travelling with a backpack. He
has no place to stay tonight and he’s all wet. So I call my CS Host
to ask her to rescue him as well. First she’s cautious but finally
she says yes if we come inside the room all clean and dry.
We
take all the precaution and we share the bed for few hours of deep
sleep.
At
least we are dry.
We
quickly pack up in the morning to leave the house at 8a.m.
The
next stop for me will be Bramberg. I separate from Maxime to team
with Johannes.
III
22sd of July BAMBERG
I
have a CS Host but she asks me to go to her home only at 8:30 p.m.
I
walk around the pretty little city of Bamberg. I don’t find any way
to connect to WIFI.
As
I start to be tired in the late afternoon I call my CS Host. She
agrees to open the house at 6 p.m. so I can put down my backpack and
rest a while. The only problem is that Regina has no WIFI. It is a
problem for me as I need to connect to Internet to plan my train
schedule and to contact my next CS Host or book a Youth Hostel as a
plan B.
This
is a day off so I have a dinner with Regina and go to bed really
early.
Next
morning Regina prepares for me a breakfast and directs me to an
Internet Cafe.
I
contact Brigitte (a Fan from Germany) and we decide to go to a Museum
in Nuremberg where they have a special exhibit on Monsters. We go
back and forth by train and we have a pleasant afternoon.
I
get ready for the evening show. Tonight it will be indoor, seated
with a capacity of 6 000.
All
for the best as my feet and back are hurting me now.
I
see a lot of Bobcats, maybe 15 or 20 all together. It is not easy to
get a free ticket but at last I have a balcony seat. I
see the back of Bob on the piano. Not so bad and the sound is
excellent.
Tonight
the first part is the old setlist with “I’m a fool to want you”
before the intermission.
This
show is the usual 20 songs with “Love sick” as the final instead
of “Stay with me”.
All
for the best as “Love sick” is more dynamic and uplift the
audience to a standing ovation.
I
love that setlist tonight. It sounds familiar and resting.
Walking
along the river, back to my CS host, I feel good and hum for myself
”I’m a fool to want you”...thinking about someone I wish I
could forget, making “Love sick” my favourite song for the time
being.
I
don’t remember how much I ate today but never mind, I feel more
tired than hungry.
IV
24th of
July LJUBLJANA
I
go to Ljubljana by train with a change in Munich. I will be all by
myself as Brigitte decided to go by car with the German crew and
Johannes is not going at all.
Nice
trip to Munich and no problem with the change.
To
Ljubljana the ride is long and I fortunately find a nice Chinese Lady
in an empty wagon to chat with. Then a young woman from Ljubljana
gives me some advice on how to reach my Youth Hostel. I had no luck
with Couch Surfing, not even one answer, the plan B was adequate. I
find the Hostel just on time to drop my bag and go to buy food at the
super market. There is a common kitchen in this Hostel, time to cook
some warm food.
Pasta
and tomato sauce will do, plus milk, crackers, jam and
bananas, all for 6€. Slovenia is a cheap country. I take a good
shower before lying on my bed in a mixed dorm of 7. It is not so
quiet and private as CouchSurfing but I don’t have to chat with my
companions. We can ignore each other or .. share.
V
25th of
July LJUBLJANA
I
walk along the canal towards the old city in late morning and I bump
into Brigitte.
We
seat for a cup of tea, chatting and relaxing. Tony Garnier passes by
and I say “hello Tony!”. He smiles. Tony is a great guy, he seems
always happy.
We
walk to the venue in the early afternoon as Brigitte wants to be in
the line. The venue is indoor but it is a General Admission. I walk
back to my Hostel, take a shower, eat some more food, relax a while,
walk back to the venue. The line is short, only about 30 Fans
queuing.
By
chance someone hands me a free ticket early, so early that I can,
without any effort, be second row on the rail, by the piano. What a
luck! Finally I will see the face of my sweet Bobby!
The
show will start as usual, and will go on as usual, but nothing is the
same since I am in front and sing along with Bobby. I can follow the
words on his lips. He doesn’t show much emotions but speak out
clearly and ‘guttly’. It took a while to fill up the sport arena
but the public is respectful. Some one behind me sings along as well!
Great
show, great city, great feelings. I love Ljubljana. Highly
recommended.
4
Fans share a taxi to the downtown area. We pay each 2€. Alright, it
was my little luxury of the day.
I
walk happily to the Hostel and crash on the bed. My night is agitated
as youngsters arrive late in the room. I’m up at 5:30 a.m. The next
stop is Wiesen Austria.
VI
26th of
July WIESEN
The
train leaves at 8:05 a.m. with a change in Celje and 5 hours ride in
the country side. I have another conversation with a Chinese man. We
exchange, we nap, we eat (crackers and jam). I catch a local train to
Wiesen.
I
almost missed the stop as there is no station. I find myself in the
middle of the country fields. Did I make a mistake on the
destination? Nope! 2 young Fans are also...lost.
We
are 2 kilometres away from the festival site. No bus, no train,
nothing. A car with 2 nice Wieseners decide to give us a ride. Well!
Thanks.
I
rush to the first and only cafe of the site and plug my tablet.
Frederica is here and I hear the loud laugh of Alrick. Ok! This is
here. I spend some time in the cool air with a coffee and the left
over of crackers and jam. I heard there is a camp site so I walk all
the way there to a country field. 2 tents and a van are parked and
there will be the only ‘freaks’ camping!
And
me. I open my sleeping bag , not because it’s cold (on the
opposite) but to protect myself against the insects. I sleep for 2
hours, pack all my belongings in a black plastic trash bag, leave the
bag in a corner of the field (hoping no one will find it) and move
back to the fest site.
Thousands
of people are queuing or getting in. It will be outdoor, half
protected by a canopy and General Admission.
Tim
is here and Franky and Lea. We are the poor ones looking for free
tickets. Johannes will give me one. Thanks Jojo.
I’m
in with Richard, a discreet Fan from Amsterdam. We are in the back
with a poor view but a lot of Fun!
Though
it is an outdoor show and supposadly a Festival the setlist is the
‘normal’ one.
I
told you, Bobby has no logic!
Well!
The ambience is festive, cool atmosphere.
To
my surprise almost no body will sleep on the spot. No after show
party. Every one will drive back home ... every one? No!
The
poor and the wretched will have a hard time. Tim, Lea and myself have
no where to go. Of course no Couchsurfing or Hostel here. The first
train will be leaving at 6 a.m.
The
weather is not so bad and we are in summer and I have my sleeping
bag. Rejoice!rejoice!
I
walk all the way , in the dark, to the train station, crying my eyes
out. I open my sleeping bag, roll myself in it and succeed in
catching 3 hours of sleep.
5.30
a.m. I hear some steps and laughing as Tim and Lea finally rejoin me.
They had no sleep at all.
We
catch the first train to the next biggest city. We breakfast with a
donuts and coffee.
Lea
will go back home to Munich. Tim and I are moving on to the next show
: San Daniele Del Friuli.
VII
27th of
July SAN DANIELE DEL FRIULI
Tim
and I arrive in Udine tired but safe. Tim will check in a Hotel in
Udine. I move on to San Daniele. Stefano promised to take care of me
then. I will put my bag in his car and after the show he’ll be
driving to Bergamo where Stefano invited me to his family home.
That
is a good chance for San Daniele is also in the middle of nowhere.
So
I arrive in San Daniele early in the afternoon. It is hot, so hot.
The village is in feast. It is a real festival with food treats. I
see a lot of Fans that I know but no Stefano for now. He will arrive
later. I finally can get rid of my bag. I don’t queue as it is
again a General Admission show. Smart of me!
Suddenly
the weather changes, the sky is dark and the thunder storm starts
slowly but surely. Hundreds of Fans are already in front of the
stage. For 2 hours it will fall tons of water. I find refuge under a
canopy tent where they serve bread, cheese, olive oil, olives as
treats. Oh! Well! That will be my meal. But I’m afraid they will
cancel the show, not so much because of the water but because of the
electric lights. Luckily after 2 hours a rainbow will form in the
clear sky. No more rain. It is time for me to search for a ticket.
I
will get a complimentary ticket. I enter the field. It is so wet, I
am so tired that I stay all the way in the back, as a spectator. I am
all by myself. I space out and almost fall asleep.
It
is probably the only show for which I didn’t pay too much
attention. I am now cold and try to stay dry.
After
the show, the Italian Fans gather around Stefano. We seat for a quick
meal. Not quick enough for me. I’m truly exhausted and we have 4
hours drive. Of course I don’t drive but I wish we could leave as
soon as possible. I ask Stefano to go, poor Stefano!
Finally
we take the road...1 or 2 o’clock in the morning. Stefano and
Michele share the driving.
We
reach Bergamo at 6 a.m. Just time to crash for 4 hours. We all have
to move on to Milano then Roma.
VIII
28th of
July ROMA
I
catch a train for which I have to pay 10€ extra. All the trains in
Italy are speed trains. The reservation seat is compulsory.
Roma
brings memory back. The specific 2 shows for which Bob changed the
entire setlist in 2012. Will he renew the exploit? But Dylan is
Dylan!
My
first search is for an Internet cafe. I didn’t find any
Couchsurfing Host and I had no time to book a Youth Hostel. But no
panic, Roma is so touristic that a Hostel is not a problem. Just need
to find where!
I
find one that will send me to another one. A mixed 8 persons
dormitory! Not all the best but safe. Good shower and in bed early.
Did I eat anything since Stefano’s breakfast in Bergamo? Not sure!
IX
29th of
July ROMA
I
have to play the Tourist. I walk...to the Colliseo...I walk...to the
Fountain of Trevi where I treat myself with an Italian ice-cream (my
meal, after all it’s rich). Walk...walk..walk...
Another
shower and ...walk to the venue : The Thermes of Caracalla. It is a
splendid decorum. The ancient Roma. Bobby should be inspired!
But
Bobby is Bobby!
A
nice couple hands me a ticket. I feel a lot better as the Bobcats
around don’t pay too much attention to my distress. I feel
ostracized. What did I do wrong?
I
follow the couple and find myself 3rd row
centre. Whoa!
All
the Bobcats are front row or second row but I don’t care. I did
pretty good with a free ticket.
I
enjoy myself so much despite the fatigue. I am of course physically
exhausted but morally up.
The
venue is truly magnificent and Bobby is right in front of me, in
centre mike.
The
setlist will be normal but suddenly all brand new as I explain to my
neighbour what Bob is doing on stage. The Bobcats rush to the rail at
the end. I see that Bob doesn’t even pay attention.
A
great show after a beautiful afternoon.
We
all slowly move out and I bump into a group of Italian Fans,
including Stefano. They say nothing so I believe they all go to bed.
So do I.
Next
day a photo is published on Facebook. The Italians , the Germans and
some other Fans I know went to a meal after the show. No one invited
me.
I
definitively feel ostracized.
My
heart is crying and my eyes are bleeding. Why oh why?
X
30th of
July ROMA
I
pack up at the Youth Hostel and move to a real Hotel with a private
room.
Brigitte
offered me her room as she decided to go to Lucca with the German
group by car.
I
walk to the Vatican in the afternoon but I can’t find the way in,
somehow.
I
rest a lot in that private room. I have a good night sleep.
Thanks
Brigitte.
XI
1st of
July LUCCA
Next
morning I walk to the train station. Next trip is to Lucca.
I
pay again 10€ for the reservation seat to Firenze and catch a slow
train to Lucca.
I
have absolutely no plan for Lucca. Maybe sleeping out?
My
main concern is to drop my bag somewhere but the train station has no
luggage lockers as often now a days in Europe. Johannes agrees to
keep my bag in his room. Thanks Jojo. We spend some time together
talking but I want to see the city. I walk, walk and walk.
The
‘venue’ is strange : just a stage up in the middle of a
square. How in hell they will stop people to hear and see without
paying?
They
start blocking the entrance of the square in late afternoon. My good
friend and Fan Bjorn had given me a ticket for that show. But I
booked, in Roma, on Internet, a flight from Torino to Barcelona. It
was the cheapest way for me to reach Barcelona as my Global Pass is
not valid on the French territory. I need to recover some money. I
decide to sell the ticket and try for a free one later. I succeed
after one hour of trying. I will get a free ticket right before the
show. Mission accomplished!
The
opening act is an Italian ‘Bob Dylan’. ??? I don’t understand a
word!
The
show is good but the audience not so much enthusiastic.
They seem to recognize (as always) only ‘Tangled up in blue’. And
at the end they react to ‘Blowing in the wind’.
The
Bobcats are piled up in the front.
At
the end I am at the same time tired and excited. What to do for the
rest of the night?
I
bump into Johannes and half refusing, half agreeing I will finally
lie down on the floor of his room. Only for few hours. Thanks Jojo.
Up
at 8 a.m.
XII
2sd of July TORINO
Again
in Torino Brigitte gave me her room as she will be going with the
German team towards Barcelona , right after the show. I walk to the
Hotel. So far that it takes me more than one hour. My feet are full
of blisters. No one toe is perfectly sane! A torture but all to
appreciate a comfortable 4 starts Hotel room. It takes me some time
to find a food market.
Only
a Halal shop. I buy curd milk and bread. I probably took 2 showers
before taking the bus number 10 to the venue. This venue is a Sport
Arena. The sound is never good in those buildings. Free tickets in
Italy are a challenge. It takes patience and faith. Thousands people
pass in front of my sign no one will react nicely. A guy is by the
entrance on the phone, holding 2 tickets. I’m sure he’s waiting
for a friend and since it’s almost time for the show I believe he
will ‘get rid’ of that ticket. And I am right. He hands me the
extra ticket, his friend will not come. Thanks! I find myself a seat
on the balcony. I see the stage pretty good. Bob is in white and the
Boys in black.
I
am a little bit disturb for before the show I met an English Fan who
talk to me about ...D.
He
bought for D. 2 tickets for each of the U.K. shows in the Fall.
Oh!no!
I’d almost forgotten. 2 tickets for each show? I start imagining.
STOP!STOP!
Disconnect
those cables!
I
fall literally asleep on the second part of the show. ‘Spirit on
the water’ sounds so boring. I wake up on ‘Love sick’. Oh!
Shit! Bobby!
I
rush out and run to the bus stop. There is no way I’ll be able to
walk back to that fancy Hotel. Number 10 will arrive in 20 minutes.
Now I focus on my bus stop. I walk 20 minutes, making sure I go to
the right direction. I’m a zombie by now.
XIII
3sd of July BARCELONA
I
wake up 6:45 a.m. Getting ready for the Buffet breakfast of that
fancy Hotel.
I
will have a real meal. I start with the vegetables, eggs, cheese,
bread, coffee, orange juice. A second help with cereals, milk,
fruits, yaourt. And a second cappuccino. I ate enough for 2 days.
Thanks
Brigitte. Luxury is good sometimes.But I’m not supposed to get used
to it.
A
second shower and I have 3 hours to plan my way to Barcelona.
I
find an AirB&B room in Barcelona for 9€ a night. I book 2
nights but as I am ready to confirm the website is suddenly stucked.
I
try again at the Airport in Torino but there is no way to confirm. I
will see in Barcelona Airport.
I
wait 4 hours at Torino Airport before checking in. I decided to have
my backpack as a hand luggage, I’m just wondering if they will take
away my pair of scissors and my nail clipper.
But
if I have to leave them behind, it’s still less money than paying
25€ for a check in luggage.
Security
is cool. I keep everything with me.
One
hour and ten minutes flight to Barcelona.
I
arrive early but again the WIFI is a problem. I can’t
connect to their 30 minutes free WIFI with my Samsung Tablet. I can’t
confirm my reservation for the AirB&B and I don’t have a plan
B. I can’t even find a Youth Hostel. Shit!
I
decide to stay at the airport as it is safe and secure if anything
else. I try to find myself a soft couch but the security move me out
at 1 o’clock then again asks me to seat at 4 o’clock. No rest for
the poor!
I
wash up in the toilets and take the first train to downtown.
Everything is closed except a little cafe. I take a coffee and a
croissant. I plug my tablet and search for a Youth Hostel.
I
walk there for more than one hour but on my arrival Raphael offers me
food and drinks. It’s a friendly atmosphere. I like it.
I
take a quick shower. I connect with WIFI and decide to join the free
tourist trip at 2:30 p.m.
After
all this is Barcelona. I will sleep when I ...die!
I
go back to the hostel to realize the show is sooner than I thought.
Just time for me to take a shower and be ready.
I
walk again half an hour to realize the venue is inside a botanical
park and there is an opening act. Shit!
I
meet with Johannes and Richard. Plus other Bobcats. The tickets are
hard to get. Alrick will hands me a ticket. I’m so surprised that I
don’t even say thank you. He’s mad at me. But why?
The
venue is a stage and in front a floor and then seats (but
the view from my seat is blocked by a palm tree). Nice surrounding
but the show is again boring. I am so tired that, again, I fall
asleep on the second part of the show. I can’t help it.
They
give bottles of cider after the show. I grab 2 and hand them to
Alrick, just to show him I’m not un-considerate. I’m just so
tired , most of the time.
I
walk quickly to my Hostel. Raphael had cook for some clients. He kept
noodles for me.
Thanks.
XIV
5th of July ZARAGOZA
I
wake up at 8:00 a.m. for a good breakfast, probably my only meal of
the day.
At
11:30 a.m. I am at the train station, direction ...Zaragoza.
I
go strait to the tourist Office and ask for a WIFI connection. The
Lady is more than helpfull and patient as I also plug the electric
wire right inside the office. I always try to stay polite and correct
but I have some needs.
I
do have a Couchsurfing Host in Zaragoza, maybe because it is not a
tourist city or maybe because I had been lucky to find Pablo. I bump
into Stefano and a friend of his. I didn’t know Stefano planned to
come to Spain. Weird!
I
catch the bus 23. The driver is nice enough to direct me to the
correct stop. I practice my broken Spanish and maybe that
helps for the communication.
It
takes me a while before I find the condominium but ... all the paths
lead to Roma...it is just a question of time to reach the
destination. Pablo is hosting another guest ; a young man from
Canada. After a moment of chat and rest Sam decides to join me for
the Bob Dylan adventure in Zaragoza. We need 2 free tickets as Sam is
not a rich lad.
At
6:30 p.m. , after a light dinner (thanks Pablo), we walk to the venue
about half an hour away. Sam is good company. I show him the trick of
‘begging’ for a ticket. The same as begging for anything : one
has to be humble, polite, smiling, answering stupid questions with
good humour, and most of all blocking all bad feelings and harsh
remarks. Some people have a mean respond to things they don’t
understand or are afraid of. Poverty is not a contaminating sickness!
And as Bobby said “don’t criticize what you can’t understand”.
What struck me the most is that all those Fans are fond of the song
“Like a rolling stone”. But their attitude shows that they didn’t
truly understand the meaning of it, or they have another
understanding of the philosophy of that song? True, we are not in the
60’s anymore. None of those Fans are Hippies. For most of them Bob
Dylan is just a Legend, an Icon, a Memory from the past.
The
Hippies of the 60’s turned Yuppies in the 80’s. Bob was smart
enough to understand that nor music , nor songs (how much
revolutionary the lyrics) will change the world.
The
show will start at 9:30 p.m. and Bob is usually right on time. At
9:15 p.m. someone hands me a complimentary ticket. I immediately hand
it to Sam and press him to rush in. That will be his first Bob Dylan
concert. I’m happy for him and somehow feel confident. At 9:25 p.m.
a couple gives me another ticket. I rush in. By pure chance I am next
to Sam (of course this is not my real seat). The venue is a Sport
Arena. All the way on the top the sound is muffled. Sam says he
doesn’t understand a word of what Bob sings!
So
I show him another trick : how to get down on the floor at the
intermission and grab any empty seat close to the stage.
Bob
is in a good mood. He’s doing some variation on ‘Tangled up in
Blue’. His phrasing is original. I enjoy myself for my day had been
easy with nice people. I forget about the fools. I didn’t talk to
any Bobcats.
When
Bob ends “Long and wasted years” I signal Sam to move
on to the stage, being carefull of the security. But only for
“Automne leaves” we have a rush to the stage.
I
run and Sam follows. We are right in front of Bob!
For
the first time of the Tour I can see his clear blue eyes.
“Love
sick” is MAGIC!
Some
Fans sing along, maybe Bobby can hear? It makes him happy, it makes
him mad? Who knows?
He
seems to see the public, he looks alive!
It
makes ME happy! “If you’re happy, I’m happy too”.
We
walk back home with Sam. We are in bed at 2:00 a.m.
Next
show is in Madrid and no day off. The night will be short.
XV
6th of
July MADRID
Up
at 7:00 a.m. Pablo offers me a cup of coffee. The trains are full
going to Madrid, I have to wait 2 more hours. “It’s life and life
only”.
In
Madrid I have a place to stay with a friend of Johannes ; Luis. He is
also a BD Fan.
I
believe that we would be 3 of us sharing, but I imagine wrong.
I
got lost in the Madrid metro. I finally ring Luis’ bell at 2:15
p.m.
Fortunately
he’s home and offers me a cool drink. It’s outrageously hot and
humid.
I
relax and snooze on the couch and we chat about BD.
We
move on at 7 p.m. Los Lobos will be the opening act tonight. I wish
to see and hear them. Maybe they will join the BD and Band for some
songs?
You
don’t always get what you want.
To
my utmost surprise, the crowd is cold and distant.
The
venue is again a Sport Arena. The capacity is more than 10 000. So
probably 6 or 7 000 ‘FANS’ walked pass me. No one, no one never
pay attention to my sign. Whoa! And that for more than 2 hours. To my
relief Fed. didn’t get a ticket neither!
My
plan B is to find out where is the smoking area and sneack in.
Apparently there is doors opened in the back.
I
wait until 10:15 p.m. to make my move.
There
is no smoking area outside but by pure chance a door is opened. 2
persons enter in the building , I follow. They are immediately
stopped by security. I slither away. I AM IN!
I
climb the stairs to the balcony. There is less control and more empty
seats than on the floor.
The
second part is predictable but nonetheless I feel happy. In Madrid I
saw half the show.
A
crowd packed up around Bobby’s bus after the show.
He
will rush inside, ignoring the Fans.
Bye,
bye Bobby! Good night and sweet dreams!
You
are right those Fans don’t deserve your attention. Ah!ah!
Johannes
and Luis get together. I realize that Johannes is not staying with
Luis but booked a Hotel room. I can’t figure that out. They want to
go to a bar to talk. I just want to go to bed.
Why
people can’t understand that I am exhausted after a day and an
evening on the road!
Until
I see Bob on stage I am in a permanent anxious state of mind.
Only
after the show I am able to relax and then my nerves are all down. So
either I sleep, either I have a break down.
Then
people believe I’m mean and bad and they call me NUTS!
Of
course it is a lot easier just to be able to buy tickets, take a cab
to a fancy and private hotel room, have a good meal in any
restaurant.
This
is not the way I travel. And this is my choice.
Finally
they drop me at the apartment. I crash on the couch.
Luis
computer is down and so is his WIFI. I have no way to plan my next
trip to Granada. The best thing to do is to go to the train station
early in the morning and find out about the trains.
So,
after a short night, I close the door behind me and Luis sleeping in
his bed at 7 a.m.
XVI
7th of
July GRANADA
By
a “simple twist of fate” I find an Internet Cafe 1 block away
from Luis’ apartment, and it’s open.
Lucky
me!
For
80cts an hour (for the Internet connection) I plan and book 2 nights
in a Youth Hostel in Granada. I had no luck with the Couchsurfing
there neither.
I
rush to the train station.
As
in Italy most of the trains are speed trains , so I need to book a
reservation.
The
booking office is packed and the service not efficient.
I
wait for more than one hour just to find out ALL the trains to
Granada are full this day. Shit!
I
am able to connect to WIFI and Kath advises me to catch a bus.
Alright!
I
am back on the metro, direction ...the bus station.
I
will have to wait until 4p.m. but the fare is only 18€. I would
have had to pay 10€ for the reservation on train , plus
I would have had lost 14€ for the first night in the
Hostel.
So
all things considered I have a good deal. The bus ride is only 5
hours, paradoxically the same as with the trains.
There
is a cafeteria with warm food. Since I have 5 more hours to wait, I
treat myself with eggs, bacon, potatoes and Coke. The diet on the
Road is not the priority. Food is always welcomed!
The
ride is pleasant. I catch some sleep.
In
Granada the Tourist Office is still open and I find the Hostel
direction easily. I catch a bus.
The
location is right in the Tourist area. A pretty building, clean and
quiet.
Though
the temperature outside is around 40° C. The room is cool.
I
take a long and cool shower and go to bed.
Tomorrow
is another day.
XVII
8th of
July GRANADA
A
free continental breakfast and a free Tourist trip. The word FREE
sounds good to me.
The
guide takes us to the old Arabic quarter of Granada. He will mention
with passion the persecution of the Muslims by the Catholics, the
Inquisition in 1492. When I mention the persecution of the Jews , as
well, the young guide will just reply that there is no more Synagogue
in Granada! Oops!
Another
shower and it is time to walk to the venue. Another Palacio.
Thousands
of persons again passing in front of me in total indifference.
Indifference
from most of the Bobcats as well!
Poverty
is NOT contagious!
10
minutes before show time a nice couple will hand me a ticket. Thanks
to you, good hearted people!
The
palacio is packed. There is no reason to be on the floor : visibility
...null.
I
stay on the rail of the balcony, twisting my neck to catch , here and
there, a glimpse of the stage.
The
sound is not the best but I am in after so much desperate hope.
The
atmosphere is festive where I stand. Fans try to pay attention to the
stage though they also enjoy a little beer. I can’t understand why
people go to a show just to ...drink beer.
At
least I can dance and sing and no one pay attention to me. I am a
weirdo! Yippy!
They
probably believe that I am the one drunk and stoned! Wrong! I never
drink and smoke on the road! Ah!ah!
I
walk a long walk back to the Hostel.
At
2 a.m. I crash on my upper bench.
That
will be a short night again.
XVIII
9th of
July CORDOBA
A
continental breakfast is welcome as I don’t remember when I ate
last. With that heat, drinking is a lot more important. The water
from the tap is good enough. Why do we have to pollute the planet
with plastic bottles?
The
first trip is by bus. I step in the bus and bump into Tim and his
girlfriend.
I
chat with my neighbour, a young man from Boston studying the
immigration of Moroccans to south of Spain. It sounds interesting.
The
train is right on time and comfortable.
I
walk to the Hostel (no Couchsurfing here neither) under the heat. It
is over 40° C.
The
Hostel is close to the Mosque/Cathedral, by the river side.
The
Manager is from Senegal. We chat in French.
I
have a bunk on the top. I take a shower, cook myself some pasta,
drink a lot of water.
I
walk to the venue in the late afternoon, only half an hour away (by
pure chance!).
Today
this is a General Admission and outdoor.
One
line is formed and a man gives me a ticket rapidly. Then
by a pure chance again a second line is formed.
I
see the opportunity of being close to the stage.
And
I am second row by the piano. Whoa!
Bob
is all in black, with a little feather on his black hat.
I
can see his face and the lines of ... time passing by. His eyes are
now like 2 slits. Can he see?
I
still have a doubt about his hair! Dyed for sure. At no time he will
take his hat off on that Tour. Not for what I saw! It looks that the
hair is glued to the hats : black or white.
The
boots are the same : those black and white Cowboy boots!
His
suits seem always a size too large.
The
shirts will change shape and colour.
The
belt secured tight around his waist.
He’s
slim almost skinny.
No
rings on his fingers.
And
often that body expression with his left hand on his left side.
His
two hands open to the public for the final ovation : ‘take me, I am
yours’ ???
His
face shows no expressions , hardly any contact with the
Band (just to signal the end of a song), least with the public.
Only
in San Daniele Del Friuli ( and God knows why ) he introduced the
Band.
Only
one time (if my memory serves me well) he said ‘Thank you’ in
Italian.
After
“Long and wasted years” he will sometimes pretend to concert with
Tony or Charlie or George or Donnie but I know by now he will do a
Sinatra song.
Charlie
changes his guitar and they do “I’m a fool to want you” instead
of “Automne leaves”.
That
will be all for the surprise.
They
will switch from “I’m a fool to want you” or “Automn leaves”
or “That lucky old sun” or “Full moon and empty arms” either
on first part or second part of the show. Promoting slowly but surely
the Sinatra albums.
Those
songs, remarkably interpreted, will please the public. But I wonder,
how many, among the crowd know those songs are not Dylan songs?
I
walk back to the Funky Hostel with a satisfied mind. The air is cool.
I
sleep for 5 hours.
XIX
10th of
July SAN SEBASTIAN
I am up at 7 a.m. That will be a long day today.
I am up at 7 a.m. That will be a long day today.
First
there is a free visit of the Mosque/Cathedral from 8 to 9 then free
visit of the gardens.
Everything
free is good to take! This is my philosophy.
There
is no breakfast in that Hostel. I take a little ‘Cafe con leche’
at the Cafe next door.
I
can go without food but without Caffeine in the morning would just
kill me!
The
Mosque/Cathedral is IMPRESSIVE of Grandeur. Large, Long, Tall.
I
am not sure I like the Christian Icons. I prefer the Geometric
designs of the Arabic Style Architecture.
The
Muslims as the Jews (being both Semit people) have no right to paint
or sculpt any human beings. Man was made at the Image of God , and
God should not be represented, certainly not looking like ...Santa
Klaus!
I’m
glad I succeeded in making it to Cordoba.
The
Mosques in Istanbul are splendid but this one is just MAJESTIC.
All
those buildings show the Splendour and Power of South of
Spain (Andalusia) in the time of the Arabic Conquest. Islam is not
necessarily linked to anger and terrorism.
Muslims
and Jews lived in perfect harmony for four centuries.
Moses
Maimonides worked side by side with Averroes in developing Philosophy
and Humanities.
The
Golden Age was interrupted by ... the Catholics. The inquisition
perpetuated by a ...woman : Isabella I of Castile.
All
together, over the time, Christians have been responsible for more
massacres and persecutions than any other Religions.
If
Jesus was a Man of Peace why so many died in his name.
As
Bobby said “Sometimes Satan comes as a man of Peace”.
In
Spain as in Italy the Grandeur is from the ... past.
I
breath a cool breeze strolling along the gardens. This is the
Alhambra in miniature.
Pools
and fountains refreshing the hot climate of Andalousia. I’ve been
told Cordoba is the hottest city in Europe. Another one for my
records!
Back
to reality at the bus stop. I am taking the bus number 3 to the train
station. After 45 minutes of anxiety the bus slowly comes to the stop
and ... moves on. What?
The
driver doesn’t stop because the bus is full! What a
jerk!
I
jump in a taxi. Either I pay 5€, or I miss the train.
For
the first time I booked my trains in advance.
First
train will take me to Madrid where I have to change the train
station.
I’m
getting used to the Madrid chaotic organization.
I
am at least able to relax in the train to San Sebastian also called
Donostia in Basque.
Half
sleeping, half enjoying the landscape it will take me 9 hours
together to reach Donostia.
Fortunately
I have a CouchSurfing Host in that city.
Elena
will be kind enough to wait for me at the train station. What a
relief.
But
Couchsurfing is a social exchange so again and again I have to tell
my stories about Bobby Dylan. And why and how I do what I do.
Did
I ever meet Bob Dylan?
It
seems so much essential for every one.
Nobody
never asked me if I ever met my favourite painter...Pablo Picasso.
Elena
explains to me that tomorrow she will be gone visiting some friends
in Bilbao.
She
gives me the keys of her Home. No hesitation. She doesn’t even know
me. Not as much as some Bobcats on the road.
A
little sandwich of ham, a glass of water, a nice shower and finally a
good night sleep. There is no show tonight. I have a private room
with ... 2 beds!
XX
11th of
July DONOSTIA
Elena
makes a light breakfast. At least a cup of coffee.
I
spend some time on her computer while she’s doing some house
cleaning. I need to plan my last ‘Tour Leg’ in France. My Global
pass is over and I still have 2 more shows to attend.
I
prepare the Plan B with ‘bla bla car’, the European ride sharing
on line.
I
already found 2 CS hosts which is a relief considering the shows will
be in the middle of no where! I mean in small cities.
I
invite Elena out for a lunch. We go to a pub for coffee and tapas,
she takes a beer.
At
3 o’clock I believe I want to visit a little of Donostia. It had
been my dream since the beginning of the Tour to go for a swim in San
Sebastian. Well! What you want is not what you gonna get!
The
temperature is 19°C. And it’s cloudy and at times rainy. No swim!
Elena
goes on her way, I take a bus to the downtown area.
The
Tourist Office Lady is nice and helpful. I take a walk along the bay.
I treat myself with an ice cream ‘dulce de leche’, take photos
(including one or two of the “beat the street’ Bobby bus passing
by me).
Time
to reach the venue.
It
is again a Sport Arena.
Luis
(from Madrid) promised me a ticket for tonight but...
I
try to catch the attention of the hundreds fans queuing to get in.
Maybe at the end 5 or 6 thousands.
I
don’t have any luck.
Luis
comes, he has 3 extra tickets. He gives me one. Thanks Luis!
I
try to sell for him the 2 extra. But the Spanish crowd is strange. No
one seems to believe I have tickets for only 25€.
I
don’t find any one in needs of tickets. Whoa! I walk inside with 3
extra tickets. Unbelievable!
I
sit all the way on the top, in a little corner. I see the stage
alright. I enjoy myself. I sing along and no one pay attention to my
craziness!
The
setlist is again the same. I hope that at least Bobby enjoys himself!
Donostia
is a pretty little town. Maybe Bobby had time for a swim!
And
I hope the Band had some rest. They must be over tired after the
Spanish Tour Leg and the heat.
I
rush to the shuttle bus after the show. I need to catch a night bus
to Elena’s home. She’s not there and I can’t walk to the
apartment.
Thanks
to the Social European Spirit, they do have a bus every hour, all
night long.
I
got lost but I use my broken Spanish and finally I am in my room. All
by myself.
I
make a sandwich of ham (the left over) and drink a soda.
I
take a long shower and sleep until ...8 a.m.
XXI
12th of
July ALBI
My
‘bla bla car’ planning is a little bit complex.
One
ride to Toulouse then one ride to Albi. The timing is short as I am
supposed to take a metro in Toulouse.
The
first meeting is at 12h20 but there is a misunderstanding and we look
for each other for half an hour.
Oscar
and Sara are cool enough to wait for me so long.
Off
we take the freeway. We stop for a quick lunch but I can afford only
1€ of baguette and water from the tap.
Kamel(the
other guest) lives in Toulouse and he will explain to Oscar how to
drop me at the metro station.
I
wait for the next ride. Jerome is right on time. Him, his girlfriend,
a German guy studying in Toulouse and I are going to The Festival of
Guitar, the Bob Dylan show.
Vincent
(my Couchsurfing Host) will wait for me at the train track in Albi.
Everything
works perfectly.
Vincent
cooks for me a little meal and I can connect with his WIFI.
He
lives 10 minutes walk away from the Festival.
The
show is at 9:30 p.m.
At
9 p.m. I walk to the entrance. It is a Festival, outdoor. There was
an opening act so ALL the people are already inside the site. How can
I get a free ticket?
Che
and Siobhain are also outside and Tim. I don’t talk to them
anymore. Conflict of interests!!!!
I
decide to buy a ticket. Oh well! That would be stupid to be right
here in Albi after all the trouble and not be able to be in.
I
do like ‘normal people’; I go to the box office and pay cash :
49€.
I
move as close as possible to the stage on the side of the piano. I
reach the 5th or
6th row,
not too bad.
The
first 3 songs are the same but...
The
4th is
a surprise! “Don’t think twice, it’s alright”. And on and on,
the setlist is incredible. Oh thank you so much Bobby dear!
It
seems to me that this is a new Tour all together.
The
people around me speak French, they look in good spirit and don’t
pay attention to the setlist. I know this is special. They recognize
the songs from the past. “I’ll be your Baby tonight” (yes
Bobby!).
1. Things
Have Changed 2. She
Belongs To Me 3. Beyond
Here Lies Nothin' 4. Don't
Think Twice, It's All Right 5. Duquesne
Whistle 6. I'll
Be Your Baby Tonight 7. Pay
In Blood 8. Full
Moon And Empty Arms 9. Cry
A While 10. Visions
Of Johanna 11. 'Til
I Fell In Love With You 12. Shelter
From The Storm 13. Blind
Willie McTell 14. Tweedle
Dee & Tweedle Dum 15. Desolation
Row 16. Ballad
Of A Thin Man (encore) 17. All
Along The Watchtower
For
me, I’m delighted with “cry a while”, I cry on “’til I fell
in love with you”...I jump on “Blind willy Mc Tell” ...”Tweedle
De and Tweedle Dum” sounds so sweet (who cares about the
lyrics)...”Desolation row”, “Ballad of a thin man” and
“All along the watch tower” are bringing memories from past
Tours.
The
Magic, finally, the ‘Shot of Love’.
I
don’t see any Bobcats and truly I don’t care.
I
walk back to Vincent’s house. I will share a bed with a young
volunteer but anyway I will have to be up at ...4 a.m.
XXII
13th of
July SAINT MALO DU BOIS
I
have first a ride to Toulouse with Chloé.
We
walk half an hour with Vincent to reach the meeting point.
Chloé
drives me to the metro. I change stations rapidly and wait for Benoit
at the train station. He will drive me to Vallet, close enough to Les
Herbiers where Monique (my couchsurfing host) will pick me up.
Monique will go also to the Bob Dylan show at the Festival of Poupet.
Between
the ‘bla bla car’ and the couchsurfing I will meet a lot of
persons within 2 days.
But
they are all really nice and open minded.
I
spend the afternoon chatting with Monique after she had cooked a nice
warm lunch.
She
drives to Saint Malo Du Bois.
The
Festival is small and intimate. There is a capacity of 3 or 4
thousands no more. It is open air and General Admission.
Thanks
to Monique I found a ticket for 50€ (real value 79).
And
thanks to Monique we sneak inside , close to the stage. By the piano,
of course.
The
stage is small and low and Bob so close.
Next
to me I recognize Steve , a follower from the U.K.
I
enjoy myself very much. It looks like Bob and the Band are playing in
my living room.
After
the large arenas in Spain, it feels strange.
The
setlist is again exceptional.
“The
levee’s gonna break”...”Jolene” ...some of my favourite
songs...Bobby sings for ME.
And
I don’t care if he doesn’t look at me. He knows I’m here.
Ah!ah!
It is my time of delusion!
Steve
had some hard time reaching the little village and he has no place
where to go tonight. So I ask Monique if he can share the
room with me. She says it’s alright.
We
chat until late in the night.
We
have to be up at 9 a.m. for I have another ride sharing from Cholet.
Monique
offers us a nice breakfast.
We
say goodbye at the train station.
I
have a ride with Gaetan, back home.
Globally
that Tour was an easy and pleasant Tour for me.
The
transportations worked fine and the accommodations were comfortable
or just safe.
I
discovered some pretty cities ; Ljubljana, San Daniele, Lucca, Albi.
I
took some time to visit more important cities ; Roma, Granada,
Cordoba, San Sebastian (Donostia).
I
missed the Prado in Madrid for lake of time and organization.
I
missed the swimming in San Sebastian for lake of ... courage.
I
met some fine people mainly through couchSurfing and ‘Bla Bla Car’.
Some
Fans were friendly and helpfull, some ... indifferent or hostile.
As
for the concerts :
2
were under the rain : Tubingen and San Daniele
2
in beautiful decorum ; Roma and Cordoba.
I
didn’t like the Sport Arena , mainly in Spain. They were too large
and the accoustic not good enough.
The
largest crowd was in Madrid.
The
smallest crowd was in Saint Malo Du Bois.
The
most fantastic (for me ) was in Albi.
The
most boring (for me) was in Torino.
Bobby
prepared 2 setlists : 1) 20 songs within 2 hours
2)
17 songs within 1 hour and a half
All
together :
1 Things
have changed 19
2 She
belongs to me 19
3 Beyond
here lies nothing 19
4 Duquesne
Whistle 19
5 Pay
in blood 19
6 Early
Roman kings 17
7 Workingman
blues #2 15
8 Waiting
for you 15
9 Tangled
up in blue 15
10 Full
moon and empty arms 14
11 Spirit
on the water 14
12 Soon
after midnight 13
13 High
water 13
14 Simple
twist of fate 13
15 Forgetfull
heart 13
16 Long
and wasted years 13
17 Blowing
in the wind 13
18 Love
sick 13
19 Scarlet
town 13
20 Automn
leaves 12
21 Ballad
of a thin man 6
22 All
along the watch tower 6
23 Tweedle
De and tweedle Dum 5
24 Desolation
row 5
25 Don’t
think twice it’s alright 4
26 Visions
of Johanna 4
27 I’ll
be your Baby tonight 4
28 I’m
a fool to want you 3
29 The
levee’s gonna break 3
30 To
Ramona 2
31 Shelter
from the storm 2
32 ‘till
I fell in love 2
33 That
Lucky old sun 1
34 where
are you? 1
35 Cry
a while 1
36 Jolene
1
37 A
hard rain’s a gonna fall 1
38 Sad
songs and waltzes 1
Not
bad for a 74 years old performer.
Thank
you Bobby Dylan!
See
you soon!
photos by Paolo BRILLO
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