Bob Dylan Tour Australia , New Zealand summer 2018


PART TWENTY SIX
Bob Dylan Tour Asia and Australia/New Zealand.

7/27/18 Seoul, South Korea
7/29/18 Yuzawa-cho, Niigata, Japan
8/02/18 Taipei, Taiwan
8/04/18 Hong Kong
8/06/18 Singapore
8/08/18 Perth Australia
8/11/18 Adelaide, Australia
8/13/18 Melbourne, Australia
8/14/18 Melbourne2, Australia
8/18/18 Sydney, Australia- ICC Sydney Theatre
8/19/18 Sydney, Australia- Enmore Theatre
8/20/18 Wollongong, Australia
8/22/18 Newcastle, Australia
8/24/18 Brisbane, Australia
8/26/18 Auckland, New Zealand
8/28/18 Christchurch, New Zealand

The Asian Tour seems complicated to organize as there is only 1 show for each city.
I decide to start my Tour in Adelaide, Australia.
Beside being a Bob Dylan Fan I belong to some international organizations ; Couchsurfing (hospitality), WWOOF (willing workers on organic farm), HelpX(volunteering for accommodation and food).
In between the Bob Dylan tours I volunteer to save up some money on electricity, water and food.
I, then, find a farm in north of Adelaide willing to host me for two months ; June and July before the beginning of my Tour in Adelaide the 8th of August.
On arriving in Melbourne I find a Couchsurfing host who will pick me up at the airport and feed me for two days.
I take a bus to Ritchie's house (also a couchsurfing host) in Adelaide , also for two days and two nights. And also Ritchie is feeding me. Ritchie and his community are dumpsters diving folks, meaning they go to the back of the food stores to search in their dumpsters after closing time. So, we are fed with bread, donuts, veges, fruits … no one is supposed to die of starvation in the wealthy countries.
Massoud will pick me up at the train station to give me a ride to the farm. Here, too, solidarity is working good.
Peter and Deborah are a retired couple. Peter was a pastor for the Lutheran church and decided to work now on his father's old farm. They built a new house on the top of the hill and live there with Deborah's mother who is 92 years old. The house runs on solar panels energy and is rain water provided.
They raise 130 sheep and decided to reforest the land with specific Australian trees, mostly eucalyptus.
HelpX is a website where volunteers can find hosts, then the 'rules' are define between the protagonists.
Peter and Deborah offer me to stay in my own shack, a little house with all comfort, located 400 meters away from the main house. Deborah proposes me to have lunch every day with the family and provides me with food for the rest of the meals. This fits me perfectly. The only problem will be the Internet connection. There is no connection, except near the house.
The farm is isolated, the nearest village is Robertstown, 7 kms away. I will not move from the farm, except three times when I go with Deborah to shop and one time when we all three go to Adelaide for a movie.
My routine is to get up around 7 am with the sun rise, to have a light breakfast and start my shore.
Work on a farm is diverse ; cutting wood, working on the sheep fences, sorting the tools, moving stones from the falling stone old house walls, attending the sheep (castration of the lambs), planting the trees.
I work 5 to 6 hours a day and spend the rest of my day reading books.
From Peter and Deborah I learn about the Aboriginals for they have been missioners in the North for four years.
The story appears to be the same as for the Native Americans in the States, sadly.

After two months of that routine, and not meeting much people outside the family, I feel that I need to move.
With the accord of Ritchie I will move back to Ritchie's house in Adelaide for the last two weeks before I hit the road.
These two weeks are refreshing as I don't need to work, though I help with the organization of Ritchies airBandB.
I visit Adelaide and think about flying to Perth for the first show in Australia.
The flights are extremely expensive so I renounce.

I
Adelaide 11th of August 2018.
Bobby and his Band are first announced in the Botanic Garden. Truly I don't know where they were planning to plant a tipi!
They moved to Bonython Garden. More space for a circus. More wet too!
A huge tent on a swampy ground!
There is an opening act ; Vance Joy. Known to the locals.
I was hoping for him to give a warm homage to the Nobel price of literature 2016, with all respect but... Mr. Joy is focusing on the empty seats in the front of him.
I do believe the VIP folks didn't spend 500$ for Vance. I have the feeling he missed the point by talking too much. He didn't win my consideration.

By some miracles I have 2 tickets but the Good Samaritan who gave me the V.I.P. made my night, my week and my month!
Thanks GS!
The seats are tight, feel like flying low coast.
But the view on the stage is incredible. Right in front the piano. 5th row back. The stage is low. No one in front of me , a lot behind!
Of course I know by now there will be no center stage for there is no more...Sinatra songs!
For good or for bad, only God knows.
But for me, simple mortal, it's for good.
Back to a Bob Dylan repertoire.

8 p.m. sharp.
Stu is strumming his little tune. George, wearing a hat, is taking his position. Nothing changed. I see the Oscar, the statue bust....maybe the beads? Not sure!

The stage is heated.
1) “Things have changed”.
He must love that song. Me too.
Though it was not the opening in Seoul.
The voice is loud and clear. Dressed in B&W. No hat. A baldness sometimes apparent. A dying of the hair. Slim and elegant.
The piano is turned sideways. My seat on the right gives me the view of his weird way of sitting on the piano bench, at the limit of balance.
He is wearing the same boots. Must love those boots!
2) “It ain't me Babe.”
Relatively new on the set and giving his point.
"You just want a lover and nothing more!"
But. It ain't him!
No change of the lyrics. No change of the melody.
Yet!
3) “Highway 61”
A bit of scriptures' twist. Unless H61 was near Jerusalem 3 000 years ago!
It rocks the gigantic Tipi. We should make the Sun dance, but no, it's not the goal.
It's warming my body. Here, you can stamp your feet as much as you can, all you'll get are.....wet feet!
4) “Simple twist of fate.”
And Yes! The harmonica is back. All for the best.
Timid applause from the crowd who doesn't know how lucky they are.
No harmonica in Europe!
Thanks Bobby! You heard my concern.
5) “Duquesne whistle”
Perfectly executed but not so much enthusiastic.
Good performance by the Band. Sweet swing!
I tight up my body. Focus hard.
6) “When I paint my Masterpiece”
For me the first time live on that Tour.
Beautiful surprise. Great choice.
For me, the highlight of the night.
Today I feel the melody....tomorrow I'll focus on the lyrics.
7) “Honest with me”
Truly not my cup of tea.
I can't be IN, neither musically, neither wordily.
Maybe someday!?
8) “Trying to get to heaven”
The crowd is not confused with Desolation, they understand English.
Not my cup of coffee.
Sad!
It doesn't fit the Bobby on stage who looks young and fit.
And we all want to believe that HIS Heaven is far away!
9) “Make you feel my Love”
His Adele cover? Ah!Ah!
Maybe she ruined that song for me.
Can't feel it. Though I did go to the ends of the world for him! Literally.
10) “Pay in blood”
He changed the melody.
Too much slow. Not enough anger.
Don't like this one.
11) “Tangled up in blue”
Same comments as above.
12) “Early Roman Kings”
Yes! Waking up the crowd.
A crazy Fan on my left rings a bell when Bob spits out
"My bell still rings"
I've been told that that kind of bell actually doesn't exactly rings!
It depends on your point of view!
13) “Desolation row”
The one that takes me in another dimension.
Maybe he didn't paint his masterpiece (yet)
But he certainly wrote it!
For This one only , he deserves the Noble.
The public is not mistaken and this is a crowd ovation.
But as the security doesn't allow a standing crowd , everyone politely sits down.
14) “Love sick”
I do karaoke on that one. Swallowing every single word.
15) “Don't think twice”
No, no, no.
I hate when he's trying to raze his voice at the end of each phrase.
Doesn't work for me. I prefer his deep growling tone.
16) “Thunder on the mountain”
Rapid and well articulated.
Of course it's Georgie's moment of glory.
Bravo George Recelli!
17) “Soon after midnight”
Sweet melody.
I do Karaoke on this one as well.
18) “Gotta serve somebody” (revisited, for the lyrics)
By now the hard core fans around me are on their feet.
Security can't fight 10 enthusiastic and peaceful fellows!
They let go and I enjoy a great collaborative homage.
Bob hears us and slightly turn towards us. Oh!oh!
He looks happy.

We try a stage rush but security is tough!
And why?
They just disturb the Peaceful
"Blowing in the wind"
We refocus on Ballad and all ends well.
What a day! What a night!
Thanks folks.
Thank you Bobby and His Band.
Good night. See you soon.

II
8/12/18 Melbourne.
For accommodation on my tours I am now using the Couchsurfing community.
I reach through the website, for each city, about 10 hosts. If I am lucky I can have 2 positive answers. Sometimes I don't have any positive answer, in that case, my plan B is to book a Youth Hostel or at times use AirB&B.
Couchsurfing is free, meaning no money is supposed to be asked. It is an exchange between persons who like to travel. The staying is mainly short, 2 or 3 nights, but sometimes it could be longer, like with Ritchie. The comfort is according to the host way of life; from a private room and bathroom to a mattress on the floor.
My concern is always to figure out how to reach the place, before the show and more important after the show. I don't have a budget for a taxi so I have to organize either to walk, either to use the public transportation.
My new host in Melbourne, David, is willing to visit me in Adelaide and to my relief will give me a ride from Adelaide to Melbourne.
We have a 12 hours agreeable ride, but as soon as we are home, we crash and sleep until late.
David is a beautiful host and will drive me around Melbourne to visit the city. David is also a big eater and as he eats most of his meals in restaurants I will be well fed. Few times I will pay the bill, being careful of my budget.

III
8/13/18 Melbourne.
I caught a train from Glen Waverley to Richmond station.
20 minutes walk and I spot the Margaret court Arena.
It's 6 p.m. and some folks are already waiting at the door.
The temperature should be 10 Celsius (at least this is the way I feel).
I start looking for a ticket when a woman literally runs to me.
- "I have 3 extra" she says
- "thank you, I need only one"
She's over enthusiastic.
After she had sold the 2 extras we enter the venue.
Our seats are on the balcony, extreme right. I know I will see the back of Bob at the piano. Fortunately we will have a good view of the stage , so tonight, I will see the Band clearly.
The venue is huge (Bob's standard), maybe 5 or 6 000.
Bob takes his position on the piano, white jacket and black pants.
I expect the setlist to be unchanged from Adelaide, so I am ready for the songs one after another.
The public is polite but never over enthusiastic.
My Good Samaritan doesn't recognize the songs and even makes a comment on the bad quality of his voice. Oh!oh!
But it is true that the sound, here, is not the best.
At some point the words are mumbled, particularly on "Duquesne whistle".
From another point of view, the show might be excellent.
The fact that Bob is at the piano at all time doesn't give a chance for the fans who have a "bad" seat to have a good view. Sometimes even completely obscured by some elements.
My view is certainly not all the best, at no time I will see Bobby's face. But I will clearly see some baldness at the top of his hair.
If I listen to the recording of that show it might be excellent but this is not the way I feel.
But Bobby seems to be happy and bow to the public, join by the Band, at the very end. The only time he is actually facing the public.
A good show, no doubt about it, but not my ever best.
My Good Samaritan gives me a ride back to my Couchsurfing host.
All for the best.
Thank you all the good people.
Good night Bobby. See you tomorrow. Same place, same hour.

IV
8/14/18 Melbourne.
I catch the same train as yesterday but half an hour later.
Really soon a Good Samaritan hands me an excellent ticket. The seat is second row on the extreme left.
The view is the opposite of yesterday.
I see Bobby's face at all time, except when the light spot is in my eyes.
Stu and George are hidden by the stage elements.
Bobby enters the stage and immediately walks towards me. Oops! Not exactly. But towards Stu and George. He chats with Stu before taking his position at the piano. I am pretty sure by now they will start with "All along the watch tower". But I am wrong. It is "Things have changed".
For some reason unknown to me the 5 persons on my right are moving away. That left me alone on the aisle of the second row.
Awesome!
Now Bobby is playing....in my living room. So I feel.
I am ready for a good karaoke party and a good dancing.
But at no time I will stand up to dance. It's against the policy, it had been all over Europe already. Where it's coming from? Only God knows. But the venue security will not let anyone (even the front rows) standing up.
I am a Peaceful person so I will not fight. I'm just bouncing on my proper seat.
Bobby is a bit nervous tonight, passing the stage from right to left, chatting with Stu or George or Tony, murmuring something to Charlie.
His walk is more like a trotting. At some point I do believe he didn't start the singing on time. But to my surprise, there is no changing in the set.
The same "old" songs but to me a lot more powerful than last night.
The harmonica is great, even on "make you feel my love"! (As you know by now, not my cup of tea!).
I still don't get the slow motion on "Don't think twice it's all right" just as I was getting used to "Tangled up in blue".
The public will stand up for "Desolation row " and "Thunder on the mountain ".
I hear the ringing of the bell as Bob states "my bell still rings ".
The same Super Fan is following.
Not a single move to the stage for the encore, not even the first row.
Another collective bow, as it seems that Bob gives some kind of signal to the Band members.
I enjoy my personal self! It was me and Bobby D. tonight.

I walk rapidly to the train station, suddenly remembering where I am; Melbourne Australia.
If only the dream never ended.
But what this a dream?
Good night Bobby. Safe flight to Sydney. 3 days rest...in Peace.

V
8/15_16/18 From Melbourne to Sydney
David decides to give me a ride to Sydney,
We are supposed to spend two days and one night on the coast road to visit some nice areas.
Davis suggests to sleep in the car.
But at the last moment the news are bad ; some bush fires are blocking the coast road and we have to use the free way. On the top of it the night in the car was a bad idea as the temperature will drop to -5 Celsius. I am literally frozen in the morning, I didn't sleep well just dozed few hours.
I am not in a good mood when we reach Sydney. David also decided to drive right back to Sydney and I have to figure out how to reach my new Couchsurfing host late at night, for he will be playing Celtic music in a club that night.
I drop my luggage at the train station locker and walk to the Opera.
All together I have a nice afternoon before joining my host at the club.
My bed is in the kitchen of a small house and I immediately fall asleep.
Another CS guest, Loïc, is sleeping on the floor. Loïc is French. He hitchhiked all the way from Marseilles to Sydney and soon back to Marseille through Perth, China, Russia.... Whoa! This is adventure!

VI
8/18/18 Sydney.
The first show in Sydney is in a huge venue by the harbor.
I spend all afternoon roaming and enjoying myself.
After three hours of struggle to find a 'friendly' ticket, at 8.30 p.m. I renounce.
The crowd is not friendly.
I lost my spirit.

VII
8/19/18 Sydney.
Enmore theater.
The day starts a 9 am. The concert is GA and I forgot. But I didn't plan to queue. I usually don't anymore. But some Fans I know are in the line and I decide to join. I am given a number, 12. so I am the twelfth in the line, which doesn't mean any thing for I don't have a ticket. Supposedly GOLD to be in the pit.
By now the crew members are putting on the stage, as I know it happens every day of a show at 9am.
My chances are slim for a ticket before 6.30pm (opening of the doors) and according to everyone slim all together.
Well. I am tired to explain that a small venue plus a sold out show don't mean anything for my plan. It's all a question of luck and circumstances.
Don't I, ME, know that?
It is weird how people explain to me how to get a free ticket. It would be like me explaining to a fisherman how to fish.
Each person is limited to its own world. Hard to be open minded, hard to learn a lesson from others, hard to have empathy.
I don't explain to anyone how to buy a front row ticket for 600$.I have NO idea how it works.
This said I go on my way.
On and on I have a pleasant afternoon :the sun is shining, I grab some food and manage to control my cold and cough.
By late afternoon I spot Bob and his Band getting in for the sound check.
I wish people could believe me on that too but.....it's not important. Just for me a little treat if I can't get in.
By 5.30pm they regulate the line and it starts to be too much for me.
I still don't have a ticket.
I suddenly feel like going home to rest and forget the crowd folly.
I walk away.
But I do need to get a ticket to see the show. This is why I am here.
I forget about the rail, getting in is now the only objective. And finally I don't want to be on the rail. I Don't fit there.
After the floor had been admitted, the seated patrons start entering by the other door.
Paradoxically those are a lot more friendly. They even TALK to me. woah!
Some extra tickets are available. For now a bit too much expensive.
15 minutes before show time when my mood is a lot better and my spirit much higher a young boy proposes a ticket for 50$. I accept. The value is 239.
My position is strange. We are a bunch of Fans in the foyer, meaning right next to the bar and merchandise stand, outside the main venue but above the whole public.
My chance is that the couple next to me is over friendly. The man is impressed by my 400 Bob Dylan shows since the 78's. I don't impress much the Bobcats anymore! It is My moment of glory! Everyone needs one.
We play a game;he will try to recognize the songs and I will approve?
We have fun until Bob decides to change one song in the set list....
Bob appears all in black, including the boots. Oh oh.
1 "Things have changed"
is strong.
His voice is groaning, a bit tired but he is forcing the sound out. He wants to impress the standing crowd.
2 "It ain't me Babe "
is perfect.
3 "H61"is powerful. I watch George who seems to be particularly hard and loud.
4 "Simple twist of fate"
I am tired of it.
5 "Duquesne whistle "
is mumbling and I do believe he did a mistake in the lyrics at the end.
My friend is good but at some point he murmurs to me "will he stand up and pick up his guitar?".
I say no.
I feel a little disappointment.
It's true that from our position, the view on Bobby's face is limited.
6. "When I Paint My Masterpiece "
exceptional. And yes, everything will be different when I paint my masterpiece.
I will have money for Bob Dylan ticket shows.
7. "Honest With Me" .
No comment
8. "Tryin' To Get To Heaven"
No comment
9. "Make You Feel My Love."
Nice harmonica at the start.
10. "Pay In Blood ."
Would be better center stage.
11. "Tangled Up In Blue "
Tired of it.

Then my friend asks me if he will do ERK. I say , yes. Luckily he didn't change this one!
12. "Early Roman Kings."
great. George is really good tonight.

Oh oh oh
It doesn’t start like Desolation row. .....
13. "Visions Of Johanna"
Beautiful surprise. And the first rows know what they get.

My good friend asks for "love sick" and...he will get it.
14. "Love Sick"
15. "Don't Think Twice, It's All Right."
I start to appreciate it.
16. "Thunder On The Mountain"
I dance for there is no restrictions where I am, standing in the foyer.
17. "Soon After Midnight. "
Sweet. I cry on this one. I've been sick and depressed all day.
18. "Gotta Serve Somebody" (Boogie Woogie version)
It is a new arrangement and it swings good. I hear some people singing along.

My friend asks if it is the end.
No. 2 more.
He's funny. He trusts me.
(encore)
19. "Blowin' In The Wind"
20. "Ballad Of A Thin Man"

It's all over.
It was a show much appreciated by me 'cause so hard to get in.
I was very happy to find my good friend who absolutely wants to take a photo of me with his wife. He says he will write a story about me.
Whoa!
I feel appreciated.
I rapidly move out. I walk back to my couchsurfing host 2 blocks away.
This was the best show out of 4.
Of course according to my personal experience.

VIII
Wollongong Australia 20th of August.
From Sydney I catch a train to Wollongong in the late morning.
It will take one hour and a half of a pleasant ride.
The weather is fine and I want to take a chance to see the sea.
Stepping outside the train station in Wollongong already gives me a strange feeling.
It is too much empty and too much quiet.
But….where are the people?
The half hour walk towards the beach confirms that feeling ; an empty and ugly city.
At the end of the road there is some kind of light. The ocean is of a blue/green color and the sand is white.
Spending some time along the Ocean is refreshing for the soul.
I spotted the venue on the way. It is one of those huge stadiums. Efficient for the capacity but nothing more.
The afternoon is passing by nicely. Alone but not in loneliness.
The Aussie Bob Dylan Fan club arrives in the late afternoon.
There is an arrangement to bring some Fans back to the city of Sydney after the show. A bus is supposed to be rented and the expenses share among the patrons. The plan is not too clear with me, a bit of confusion….50$ for a trip that coasts 8$ on the train? Going to the central station anyway?
My plan B is to catch the train ; 10.23pm or 11.23pm?
And the Aussie Bob Dylan Fan club walks to the ….Bar.
This is when I feel loneliness.
And no, I am not a teetotaler. I just don’t get intoxicated before a show. What the point? I appreciate the music with all my body and clear mind.
I don’t mind a sweet glass of white wine or a delicious beer ….after the show. If my schedule gives me that opportunity.

By 6.30 p.m. the crowd slowly moves inside the building.
We are only few folks looking for cheap tickets but my luck is running out of me.
I don’t have neither the look, neither the spirit of arguing on my reasons why I don’t go to the Box Office to buy one.

By 8 p.m. I am the only one out, desperate now to get in.
The same scenario happened and this night 3 times ; a nice looking, well dressed woman comes to me and says yes , she has an extra.
-“How much do you want to pay?”
My sign doesn’t seem to be explicit enough, or maybe they just don’t read it. I mumble that I don’t have much money. Immediately they are on the defensive, taking a mean attitude and expressing with their face and body that no, they don’t like beggars, then move briskly inside the security checkpoint and venue WITH the extra ticket. Wasted , anyway.
Though I know the scenario by now, it always gives me some desperate emotion. Why? Oh Why?
The last Lady “excused” herself by saying ; “but I paid 200$ for it”. And? I don’t deny it is an expensive purchase but why trashing it on the top of all?

By 8.15 p.m. I know Bob is on stage for I hear the sound from inside.
My mind floats for an instant ; do I wait for a miracle? Do I move now to the train station, back home?
This is when I dearly miss my friend Ben. Ben! oh! Ben! were are you tonight?

When, coming from nowhere, I spot a young Lady, certainly outside the normal set of patrons ; she’s loaded with ...books!
She addresses me with a high pitch of voice.
I feel suddenly an immense relief. Though she is ‘weird’ , she is certainly SMART. I picture her as an Asperger ; person with a high level of intelligence but a bit on the side concerning sociability. Am I in that spectrum too?
We chat for about 10 minutes. She talks mainly about her encounter wit F. that “Gypsy”(?) girl from Italy following Bob Dylan all around the world (and no, she’s not me, and I am not her, for ME, I DO GO to the shows! I am a Fan, not a stalker).
That smart Lady figures out , right away, there is something wrong with all F.’s stories.

As we exchange some news about F. I keep my eyes on the late folks coming in and keep alert for any sign. I spot a group of 4 girls laughing and running late. I immediately move to them.
-“ by any chance do you have an extra ticket?”
-”yes”
-”Do you mind if I walk in with you?”
I kind of force my chance, but by now I’m totally desperate for anything. My so called friend starts a trouble but I can’t do nothing and I feel this ticket is for ME. Sorry Lady!
We rush to the seats. Those girls are laughing and I don’t feel comfortable about disrupting the show.
By the time we settle down Bob is finishing “Duquesne whistle”.
The girls keep on chatting, obviously not coming for the show but just to have a good time together.
As Bob is in the middle of “When I paint my Masterpiece” the girl next to me starts talking to me.
It’s a bit too much and I signals her I need to listen to Bob. Sorry.
I focus as hard as possible on the stage. We are far away on the top of the Arena.
Bob is doing good.
I appreciate each one of the songs for I know I could have missed them all.

We appreciate what we had, when we don’t have it anymore!

Even “Make you feel my love” sounds good. He didn’t start with the harp though.
Pay in blood” appears also better when I stop focusing on the lyrics and try to catch the groove.
On the “Early Roman Kings” I pay attention to Charlie’s guitar.
And as I am ready for “Visions of Johanna” I recognize the intro of “Desolation row”.
A slight stir from the audience but nothing spectacular.
I am wondering what kind of public we have tonight since he did already 2 shows in Sydney, only 2h ride away from here.
Love sick” make the girls on my left react. They do know the songs, or some of them.

I am a polite listener tonight ; no karaoke, no dance. A mix feelings of sadness and happiness. Of course I’m in but I did pay the price , I payed in blood (and my own).
Thunder’” doesn’t bring the Fans up. Maybe some aficionados in the front.
Gotta serve somebody” is remarkable. Definitively the highlight of the show.
I still have to figure out the lyrics...something about being in Las Vegas and having Fun????

I murmur to the girl on my left that I will have to move now for I need to catch a train so, move rapidly outside the venue. I thank her VERY VERY much.
I step down by the exit door and listen and watch the final 2 songs.
Bob and the Band make their bow and I spot a rebellious Charlie. Not bowing properly!ah!

I walk fast and catch my train to Central then a metro to Enmore. I will be in bed by 1 a.m. Not too bad!
No trouble with Bobcats or Fan Club or any bullshits.
On my own again. A freewheeling

IX
August 21.
It was a pleasant journey all the way from Sydney to Newcastle. 
A slow train but clean and quiet.
My couchsurfing host John, waits for me at his house.
A large house all white and spotless. I have my own private room and bathroom. 
John is a Yoga teacher. Everything in the house as at atmosphere of Zen ; peace and rest.
My first night in Newcastle is refreshing.
X
Newcastle. August 22.
It's a new morning and the sun is shining.
Perfect day for a walk on the beach.
I spend the first part of the day all by myself but not lonely.
I stop at a beautiful "cultured cafe" decorated with Aboriginal paintings. I buy a little gift for my grandson. Load myself with cappuccinos. Chat with a young Lady telling me all about Aboriginal languages.
I stroll all the way to the lighthouse and back in the company of birds.
By 5 p.m. it's time for the second part of the day.
Tonight I decide to dress up. I bought myself a new pair of pants, new shoes, new jacket....all at the Salvation Army for few bucks. Why waste money when it's not necessary and what about doing a good action?
I even comb my hair differently and add some earrings.
I feel good and confident.
I walk the 25 minutes walk to the venue.
It's a huge arena with an inside court where to buy food and drink.
There is only one narrow entry. It's my chance.
I put my sign out. Is it me or the people ? But I feel joy and happiness. Folks are kind, smile at the sign or wish me good luck.
It takes me only 20 minutes before a handsome gentleman says yes, he has an extra ticket. We chat with good humor and finally walk inside without thinking twice. I believe Gerard didn't really want to try to sell that ticket. Maybe just find company.
We are on the side, up on the left, which give us an excellent view on the stage and piano.
Not too long before Stu strums his tune and the Band and Bob appear.
Bobby's voice sounds tired, less clear, more like a mumble. Some of the lyrics I don't know, I can't make.
He will sing song after song without moving away from the piano, hardly communicating with Charlie and Tony, not smiling with Donnie.
He looks tired...
I observe the scene between the stage performance and the public.
It's like there is a wall in between, a dichotomy. Though some fans seem to enjoy the Rock songs, it doesn't affect the musicians. They are way too far from the audience, all in the dark. Every time a song ends and some super fans stand up....the lights go down and Bob turns his back, oblivious of the reactions.

I focus on
"Don't think twice."
The first 3 verses are sung by Bob at the piano. Hardly any sound is coming from the guitars. George is off, relaxing is back against the box behind him. Then a bridge with Bob on harmonica and George and the guitars pick up and they accompany Bob for the final verse.
Interesting try for an intimate song.
But.....the venue is not the right one? Or his voice is not so clear?
It doesn’t operate any miracle.
I am sure some didn't even recognize the song.
Gerard is happy. He has definitely a great time.
I can unfortunately compare with other shows and this is not the best one.
"Gotta serve somebody" is my favorite. I try a timid sing along...serve somebody!...but no one around me is reacting.
They came to see the Icon, the Legend, the Nobel.....not the Rock star.
Gerard proposes to drive me back home.
We have a good laugh.

XI
Brisbane. 23 24 of August.

I decided to book a youth hostel after an exhausting night 12 hours train.
I arrive too early to check in. Left my luggage at the locker and go for a visit of the koalas' sanctuary.
I am disappointed. They are caged more than anything.
Back to the hostel.
I relax in a 4 beds dorm, but we are only 2 females. Nice and quiet.
I take the train to the entertainment center.
I arrive early. The arena is huge and in the middle of nowhere. Literally in the woods.
I pull my sign out.
I am all by myself, but I am confident.
Until a security guy barks at me that I can't do that here, either I go, either I buy a ticket.
Alright. I feel much uncomfortable so I decide to buy a ticket.
109$ oh well! I'll eat potatoes for the rest of the year!
The seat is far away in the back of the arena, I will try to snick in a little bit closer.
And I do find 2 empty seats row 50 or so, on the aisle.
I'm nervous for the 3 first songs. I don't know if the seats will be claimed. But they will remain empty to the end.
For the 2 first songs the sound is muffled. I am ready for a common show. Ordinary in a big venue.
When I'm ready for a sing along "Duquesne whistle " I see Donnie on violin and they start one I LOVE ; "summer days", a honky tonk version.
Fantastic. I believe Bob was tired of Duquesne.
The next so gs are alright but just before "love sick" Bob moves to George, exchange some words and grab the center mike.
The most fantastic, powerful "Love sick" I ever heard. The Band is picking up the energy.
All the songs until the end will be powerful. Bob just electrified the stage.
Like the;
y all had a shot of caffeine.
"Thunder" is amazing when Tony, Charlie and Donnie regrouped to give a sort of ovation to George on his drum solo.
I dance on my seat, with no refrain.
The public will react here and there.
They recognize the first notes of "Desolation row".
But nothing like hysteria.
Same non passionate crowd!
Of course they have no comparison to make.
But, ME, I know it's a great one.
Second best after Enmore.
I catch the train to the hostel.
For some reason my night is agitated; dreaming of being hated by all , security, fans, crew people (I don't talk to anymore).
And that line popping up in my head ;
Everything gonna be different, when I paint my Masterpiece!
Is saving my sanity.
Thank you Bobby for that special show. You must have known that I paid for it.

XII
From Brisbane to Auckland.

I arrive in late morning at the airport in Brisbane on the 25th of August.
At the check in counter I am embarrassed not to be able to produce the prove of my return ticket to Australia. The nice guy wants to make sure I will not be staying forever in NZ (or in jail!).
I finally find my confirmation email among a bunch of others confirmations for my trip.
When I sigh a relief I spot on my left....Bobby's security guard. I turn around and see the entire Band queuing to check in.
I move to Tony and Stu, just to thank them for the good performance of the last show. But they look at me coolly, as if I'm out time and place!
Of stage they might be ordinary people. Or I don't have the right look??
For I spot another Fan in big conversation with Donnie!
Oh well! I'm just a Bob Dylan Fan. A freak!
I will fly with the Band, plus the road manager and security guy.
Of course, they are business class.
And no, Bob is not in that plane. He's flying his private jet. Possibly with his assistant and body guard.

I reach my Couchsurfing host home by train to figure out he is turning a nice house into a private youth hostel.
He offers me dinner, wine.
We all watch a rugby match before going to bed.

XIII
Brisbane 25th of August.

I take a train to the harbor in early afternoon. Also the area of the venue: the Spark Arena.
It's an agreeable quarter but nothing spectacular.
I prefer the Fisherman Wharf in Frisco, my favorite ever.

By 5pm I check around the venue. Of course no "beat the street" buses.
As they are all flying from city to city, they use vans to get to the show.

At 6.30pm they open the doors of the Arena.
I am now suspicious of security people so I stay away from the entrance and find a spot on the street where folks are passing in mass.
A nice man asks what I'm looking for.
"A ticket for the Bob Dylan show?"
Then he disappeared.
Another man gives me a 5$ bill. And I think that could be useful.
Another man says "yes, I have an extra ticket. How much do you want to pay?". I put out my 5$. He laughs and walks away.
Buy now I am used to that attitude. I block my hurt.
25 minutes later , the first nice man runs to me and hands me a ticket and disappears again.
Thanks Good Samaritan.
I am now in and decide to take my seat. I want no trouble with security.
I am all the way up, up facing Bob on the piano.
20 minutes layer the nasty guy who didn't want my 5 bucks is taking his seat on my left.
Oh whoa! So finally I got his extra ticket and for....free.

8.04 pm at my cell phone clock.
Stu takes his position.
Bob is in white.
By some trick of the stage disposition, the spot light behind Bob is reflecting on the piano, reflecting in my eyes. I don't see Bobby's face at all.
But I hear him clear and loud.
The first few songs are alright.
After "simple twist of fate" Donnie seats at the steal guitar.
It should be "Duquesne whistle " but he suddenly he picks up his violin and that will be "Summer days". Not as spectacular as in Brisbane. But nice for me.
No reaction from the crowd, even the first rows on the floor.
Song after song Bob is professional but he's lacking the electricity and the energy from Brisbane.
"Love sick" will be center stage to the immense pleasure of the audience. They finally react, maybe not to the song but to the fact that we finally see Bob in full.
"Desolation row" has a nice touch.
And "Don't think twice" is better posed, no voice effect. Just plainly phrased.
The highlights are ERK, LS.
I start liking TUIB.
Don't mind MYFML.
"Put your hand in my hand
Don't have any fear
I'll make you sure you won't get wet"
Or was that in TUIB??

The final bow is not synchronized, Charlie is the rebel!
That was a nice show. Professionally done.
Lacking of power and with Bob sounding a bit tired.
The public as cold as possible.

I walk to the train station to realize I had just missed the last train to Sunnyval, 40 minutes away by train so some 2 hours and a half walk!
I start panicking as my cell phone in NZ is not functioning.
A Lady at the train station directs me to a bus stop I have difficulty to find.
The nice Lady driver has no idea how I could reach Sunnyval.
Another driver picks up in the conversation.
"Yes, I know where it is but my bus is not going all the way there."
Oh well! As close as possible then I'll walk?!
That wonderful man says he will take me all the way to my place.
And he did. He gave me a ride on the ....city bus.

Thank you Good Samaritan.
Many thanks and blessings to the Auckland Metro bus drivers, particularly Joe.

XIV
Christchurch 28th of August.

For economic reason I will fly from Auckland to Christchurch on the 28th of August, the day of the show.
Hopefully my good Star will be with me and all will go well.

The flight is 20 minutes ahead of schedule.
Good omen.

The bus from the airport is dropping me straight at the Youth hostel. Second good omen.

I take a walk in the city. All devastated by an earth quake few years ago, the buildings are either damaged either in reconstruction.
It gives an air of .... after the apocalypse.
But I feel a good karma. The walls are covered with street Art, murals.
The streets are large and clean.
People are super kind. There is a feeling of hope and good will.

After checking in my dorm I take a long walk towards the Horncastle Arena passing by the botanic garden.

By 6 p.m. the area is....empty.
It is again one of those sport arenas, next to a ball arena of some kind and next to a horse track.
Only one cafe is open.
I hesitate for a short time about "begging" for a ticket. I want to be happy tonight, no stress, no panic, no security harassment. ..
So, against all my logic and resolution I find myself buying a ticket at the box office.
Oh what a sensation! To feel like all the rest. I keep preciously my 112NZ $ ticket in my hand. Feel the relief of being rich.
I walk inside early to be away from the cold.
Take the pleasure of passing by around the hall, again and again.
Is this ME or another ME?
The seat is not the best but it's mine! I don't shit and seat on the balcony, behind the piano.
I was chatting with a young guy who expected to hear "like a rolling stone". I tell him it would be most probable. ...what a fool I am!

They all come on time.
Stu, George, Tony, Charlie, Donnie and yes Bob.
There is an empty seat on my right, all for the best.

1. Things Have Changed(Bob on piano)
Good. The sound is correct.
I see Bob from up right. I have the feeling he had a new hair cut! Must be the light.
2.It Ain't Me, Babe(Bob on piano)
I focus on Bob, never leaving my eyes out of him. Try to see him as a 25 years old. From far, it does the trick. The body didn't change, just the face which I don't see.
3.Highway 61 Revisited(Bob on piano)
A good reaction from the audience. At least some freaks behind me, who paid 92nz $ for a high perched seat.
4.Simple Twist Of Fate(Bob on piano with harp)
The harp is welcome. And Ben must have been right when he said there was no medical reason for Bob not playing any harp in Europe.
5.Summer Days(Bob on piano) (Honky Tonk version)
Honky tonk, blue grass, ragtime?.....I'm not sure. Donnie is wild on violin.
6.When I Paint My Masterpiece(Bob on piano with harp)
I feel the phrase
"Everything will be different when I paint my Masterpiece"
- money
- recognition
- respect
7.Honest With Me(Bob on piano)
Even if it is one least of my favorites, tonight I appreciate.
8.Tryin' To Get To Heaven(Bob on piano)
Maybe this is what I'm doing too, running after the time.
9.Make You Feel My Love(Bob on piano with harp)
I sing along. Definitively not the way Adele is doing it.
Plus that line about not getting wet. A parabola?
10.Tangled Up In Blue(Bob on piano)
No big voice effects, all for the best.
11.Pay In Blood(Bob on piano)
Clear.
12.Early Roman Kings(Bob on piano)
George and Charlie are fantastic.
I don't hear the bell in the public. Gone!

Tony and Charlie grouped around Bob. Could be for consultation on the next one.

13.Like A Rolling Stone(Bob on piano, Tony bowed double bass)
(new arrangement with slow passages)
Oh my! Immediate reaction from the audience.
And I scream the verses
"How does it feel
To be without a home
With no direction home
Like a complete unknown
Like a rolling stone?"
14.Love Sick(Bob center stage)
Excellent performance of Bob playing with the mike and bending on his knees. No static position on this one!
15.Don't Think Twice, It's All Right(Bob on piano with harp)
Bob is now full of energy.
16.Thunder On The Mountain(Bob on piano)
Of course a great solo by George, back up by the 3 musketeers; Tony, Charlie and Donnie.
17.It Takes A Lot To Laugh, It Takes A Train To Cry
(Bob on piano then center stage) (heavy blues)
I don't recognize this one at first.
Bob is center stage again with all power.
He is taking pleasure to challenge the public.
Even though most of the fans don't know it's a treat they appreciate a fantastic performance, well synchronized by the Band.
18.Gotta Serve Somebody(Bob on piano) (Boogie Woogie version)
As good as always on that tour.

I wish for "Forever young" but that would be greedy.
(encore)
19.Blowin' In The Wind'(Bob on piano)
20.Ballad Of A Thin Man(Bob on piano with harp)

Bob leaves the stage rapidly after the last bow.
I follow him with my eyes, he's trotting out.
Must this be a goodbye and not a farewell!

I hesitate for 4 seconds : to go down the floor and say goodbye to the crew people and meet with the Bobcats?
I decide to keep on a good feeling.
The crew people seem to perceive me as an enemy more than anything else.
As for the Bobcats? ...
We never discuss anything much before the show.
I wear the coat of the forever beggar.
Don't have the physic of M.
Don't have the chat of I.
Don't have the desire to get drunk.
Yes, I feel like a
ROLLING STONE.


The Tour is over.
I feel liberated somehow.
I am now just a tourist.
Since I am already in New Zealand and I still have few days before my flight back to Paris from Melbourne I will return to Auckland by bus and ferry. There is a ferry to catch between the two main NZ islands.
I will spend a night in Wellington, at a youth hostel.
I relax all the way in the bus to Picton. I enjoy to see the landscape through the window of a bus I don't drive.
I catch the ferry. The transfer is three hours and I start a nice conversation with a 'kiwi' couple returning home.
I have few hours to rest in Wellington Youth Hostel before catching another bus all the way to Auckland.
The ride is 10 hours long. This is the most relaxing and agreeable part of being on the road. I could stay in that bus forever...
But that bus will stop at the station in Auckland.
I go back to Sid's house (CS host) for 2 days before flying to Melbourne.
I go back to David's house (CS host) before flying back to Paris then Shanghai.
I was supposed to catch another flight to Beijing, then Paris.
But the first flight is late. After a moment of panic I find out that the Chines attendants, thought not so much polite, are efficient. A young Lady find me a flight from Shanghai to Paris. I am much relief.
The flight is long but smooth. The food is not the best but … it is food!
A metro and another low coast bus later, I am home.


All together that trip Downunder was a success, nothing terrible happened to me.
The cities I've seen were 'civilized' , so were the people.
My regret is not to have been able to go up north or to travel in the wilderness.
Downunder looks pretty much like a Western civilization, like Europe. Except the kangaroos and the koalas, slowly disappearing.
Globalization is turning the world 'look alike', 'think alike'.

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