Bob Dylan Tour Europe 2018.

PART TWENTY FIVE

European Tour Spring 2018.

Right after the Fall Tour U.S.A. dates are announced for a European Tour.

The first dates out are 3 shows in Roma on April 3^rd, 4th and 5^th.

All the Fans believe the Tour will start there but then Lisbon date is announced on the 22sd of March. More dates followed up in to Germany and finally unexpected 3 last dates in Italy.

I start checking out the possibilities of reaching each one of the cities , by train or by bus.

Except Krefeld, Bielefeld and Baden Baden which seem to be out of main road all other cities are accessible by train.

My plan is to buy a RailPass for a month and use Couchsurfing as much as possible. As for the concerts’ tickets …. I don’t plan to buy any in advance.

And why?

-First I don’t have a budget for tickets,

-Second I don’t wish to spend money on a show that will be the same (I am convinced of that),

-Third I am sure some extra tickets will be available out side the venues.

I print a sign that says ;

“If you have an extra ticket you do not need, I will be happy to use it. Thank you.”.

I don’t see anything wrong with that.

My philosophy of life is to be a ‘minimalist’ and to recycle everything. Recycling a Bob Dylan show ticket is not against the law or doesn’t present any damage or any moral disturbance.

My experience for now 4 years is that ;

-         Some people perfectly understand my point of view.

-         Some people don’t believe that could work (though they never tried).

-         Some people by ‘principle’ will not give an extra ticket for ‘free’. They consider one has to pay (money) for everything. I’ve met Fans refusing to give their extra ticket (even for few Euros) and walking inside the venue with it. The first time it broke my heart and I was confused about the reason why. I now know that the Human brain is complicated and I am not aware of all way of thinking.

I go with hope in Humanity.

I fly Ryanair from Nantes to Lisbon the day previous the fist show.

I don’t feel good about flying (pollution consciousness) but the price is a lot cheaper than any bus  (also polluting) or train.

I had contacted over 100 Couchsurfing Hosts in all the cities on the Tour Road until Leipzig.

12 Hosts responded positively. It was difficult in Spain and Italy but I had friends there.

I completed the accommodations with AirBnB, Youth Hostels and even camping out.

On and on my budget for accommodation was correct.

I

Lisboa 22sd of March

I arrive in Lisbon a little bit too late and got lost in the steep streets.

My host is waiting for me.

On the 22sd of March I walk along the beach to reach the Altice Arena.

The material trucks and black buses (‘Beat the streets’) are parked in the outside parking lot.

I watch the crew people and the 5 musicians welcoming each other. They just arrived separately? Weird!

I say hello to some Bobcats I’ve known from the past. Some others I decided to ignore. Over the years conflicts or divergence of opinions have been piling up. Fans are Bob Dylan fans for different reasons. Followers are following part of the Tour or the entire Tour for different reasons. Followers are traveling with different budgets.

The Arena is large, maybe 5 or  6 000 seats.

I put my sigh out for the first time and I am lucky to have a free ticket.

The show is average. On the negative point the sound is far away for being the best.

On the positive point the setlist includes only one Sinatra cover. All other 20 songs are Bob Dylan songs, which fit me better than the last Setlist or even the one with 7 Sinatra covers.

It sounds like a rehearsal show. It is a shame for the Fans who paid for expensive seats.

A friend of mine, who had a front row seat for few hundred euros, didn’t see any of Bob Dylan. He was either hidden behind the piano, either too far center stage between Tony and Charlie.

Bob didn’t play any guitar or any harmonica. It was not a surprise for me, though.

I take a tram back to my CS host, sleep well (as well as possible when I’m on the road) and in the morning I have the surprise of not finding a train to Salamanca. I have to change my plan (already!).

I had to take a night bus from Salamanca to Madrid as I was too late for a train reservation.

II

Salamanca 25th of April

Then a morning train to Salamanca arriving 11. 20 a.m.

I got lost and had to ask my direction 3 times in a broken Spanish.

As I was getting close to the address I met Chus, my Airbnb host.

She took me Home; nice large house with my private bedroom with 2 beds.

She offered me lunch with her daughter. She cooked meat and fried potatoes, a Spanish orange for desert.

We try to communicate, she in a broken English,  I in a broken Spanish.

But we laughed a lot!

The show tonight will be at 10 p.m. so I decide to take a walk downtown.

The wind is freezing cold but no rain. That would have been snow or hail(and hell!).

The Old City is magnificent. The buildings (mainly churches) are made of stones.

I enjoy myself with a bunch of tourists when I spot the 'beat the street' buses.

I follow it, just by curiosity. When it stops in front of a fancy Hotel.

It must be THE hotel since the second bus is already there.

They are packing and get ready to go for the sound check.

Few Fans are waiting by the door and I know that Bob will not show his nose!

Well! He didn't! How he got out is a mystery. Maybe he was not in, after all?

Well! I resume my visit until I couldn't stand the cold anymore.

I walk back home, drink a cup of tea, take a shower, rest a bit.

It's already time to go to the venue. The doors will open at 8.30 p.m.

I am confident at first then loose my hope as the wind is getting colder and so the people.

Some have extra tickets but they are snobbish when I explain that I have few bucks to travel with. They will walk inside the venue with their tickets. It breaks my heart but there is nothing to do, just swallow my pride and smile to the next ones.

10.30 p.m. Stu had been strumming his tune long time gone!

I decide to walk the 30 minutes back home....

Bye!bye! Bobby. See you in Madrid.

I don’t have a good night sleep, half crying , half nightmaring!

Why o why people are so mean?

So Madrid is next!

III

Madrid on the 26th of April.

I arrive by train from Salamanca.

3 hours of slow train coming...around the bend!

I take the metro to the Youth Hostel.

It is a nice 'quarter' for only 6 girls/women.

I really like it for only 10€ a night.

I buy food at the super Market. I stuff myself with a Spanish potatoes omelet.

I walk to the Thyssen-Bornemisza museum, and got....lost. wrong direction as usual!

I enjoy myself for few hours. My Friends are there; Picasso, Braque, Chagall, Kandinsky... Magnificent!

Back to the Hostel for a shower and to get ready for the show.

I walk all the way to the Auditorium. It takes me 2 hours as you image what happened!?

By 8 p.m. I finally find the entrance. The Auditorium is not located in a nice area. The traffic is intense in the street passing by.

Few Fans are already getting in but the real queue starts at 8.30 p.m.

The venue is not big, so it takes only 1 hour for the crowd to disappear inside.

A 'fancy' type of crowd , middle age, middle class, not friendly.

Few 'freaks' are looking for ticket to buy or for free.

Few will get lucky!

I not!

I start speaking with a nice Lady and by 9.15p.m. we decide to ride the metro back home.

It is a long night of dreams and nightmares.

I fear for the rest of the Tour.

But....tomorrow is another day!

I did not see Bobby today.

Good night in Madrid,  my Dear.

IV

Madrid II. 27^th of April.

I'm getting up late and take time to write.

I then walk to the downtown area; Plaza Mayor, plaza de sol, plaza .... a lot of Plaza and small paved streets.

La Cruz street is full of cafes,  restaurants,  bars with their facade decorated by ceramics.

I find a Deli where they sell sandwiches for 1 euro and beers for 50cts.

I get myself a Jamon Bocadillo for 1 buck.

I walk back to the Hostel and take a shower.

I take another walk towards the Palace of the King and finally catch the metro to the Auditorium.

The trucks and buses are parked inside the parking lot but nothing is moving.

So...I rest until 8 p.m.

I take my sign out.

No luck. Too many Fans are looking for tickets. I chat with some of them, Italians or Americans.

I retrieve to my bed at 9.15 p.m.

I heard there had been a problem with the sound system and the setlist was 2 songs short!

I didn't feel so bad then!

V

Madrid III. 27^th of April.

The night was good. I slept a long time, unusual for me on the road.

Tea, cereals and mandarin for breakfast.

I go to Atocha train station for a reservation on the train to Barcelona.  Though I have a Rail Pass it is necessary to book a seat in most of the trains.

I spend more than one hour, going from one line to the other.

Finally I do have a seat for the 2 p.m. train tomorrow, adding 10 euros.

I have a light lunch of a ham Bocadillo and coffee for ...2 euros!

As I walk down the streets I pass by the Reina Sofia museum.

It is where Guernica is exhibited, they tell me.

So I pay 10 euros and walk the galleries for hours.

Picasso, Braque, Miro, Dali... cubism and modern, but not contemporary which I dislike.

I even watch for the first time 'Un chien Andalou' from Bunuel.

 Great! I have the best time of the day, as later the evening will be a sad story.

Time for a snack and a shower and I catch my 3 metros towards the Auditorium. By now I know the way by heart.

The same crowd : a little bit snobbish, nothing to do with the Spanish people I met all day who were really warm and helpful and forgetful of my broken Spanish.

No One here is addressing me a word. (Except some followers like Ian or my friend from Glasgow).

I feel invisible.

I will not get in. I took a chance and I lost.

But I can't stop thinking that Bob Dylan is now playing for a certain type of public. Certainly not the 'freaks' who can't afford a 200 euros ticket.

Economy is bad and the prices are rising up!

I'm wondering now if the Nobel was such a great idea and for whom MISTER Dylan wants to play for.

Anyway I am happy to have had time to discover Madrid and the museums.

I'm not sure I will be back!

Mr. Dylan! See you in Barcelona.

If my good Star is back with me.

VIBarcelona, March 31, 2018

SpainEl Gran Teatre del Liceu.

I've been walking the streets of Barcelona for 2 days now.

They are far away from being empty, even packed with Tourists.

The Gaudi style was extravagant but so full of life!

My feet are so tired, my brain is so wired.

I stay at the home of a beautiful 'woman Fan' who offered me shelter for those few days in Barcelona.

For the second night I walk the Ramblas towards 'El Gran Teatre del Liceu' around 7 p.m.

The show will start at 9 p.m.

The Teatre is a small stylish building built mainly for Classical Music and Opera.

The same as in Madrid.

A deliberate choice for Mr. Dylan to play for a certain category of public?

Limited are the seats and high priced are the tickets.

As ticket prices start at 80 euro and end at 220 euros for a front row.

(We are in Europe and particularly in Spain when there is an economic crisis!)

By doing so, categorizing the Audience by “social class” (unless you're a super Fan making a super sacrifice!).

But Mr. Dylan is an ICON, Nobel Prize for Literature, not anymore the 'protest singer' or even 'Rock Star' he used to be.

I've been told the 'Rolling stones' are a lot more expensive.

But precisely, I DO NOT go see the Stones!

Believing Bob Dylan is a different kind of Artist.

I suppose we don't have only ONE Bob Dylan but so many Bob Dylans, every Fan defining the Artist differently.

Seeing him from a different point of view, perspective!

This Bob Dylan here, or at least this Bob Dylan audience is not my cup of tea!

But the 'Benicassim Festival' audience  (few years ago) was neither my cup of tea!

As I won't have Bobby in my living room playing 'Chimes of freedom' for me alone.....

well! I have to do with the public.

So...I made up my mind not to find any Good Samaritan but I won't give up the try for a cheap ticket.

I just spent 45 minutes with that wonderful 'Couple Fans' who flew all the long way from Australia to see Bob Dylan and his Band in Spain (and Lisbon). Thank you my dear friends for lifting up my spirit.

I go out with a big smile on my face which help for any transaction (as everyone knows!).

So...I put my sign out. What do I have to lose? A little bit of my pride!

That 'chic' Lady talks to me?

-yes , I have an extra ticket, my husband can't come tonight.

-how much do you want?

-face value. (which is 176 euros)

A good seat, she says. I hope so, I think.

But, no, way too much for my budget. I've already decided to make the whole Tour, no matter what.

I will just be happy with few shows , here and there, different cities, different countries, different public.

Half hour and she is still passing by with that ticket, looking more and more desperate.

-Alright, I offer you 50 euros, and it is really all I can offer.

-okay, she says, I am tired anyway.

I run to the doors, just to make sure I am not dreaming.

I AM IN!

For the fist time after Lisbon!

And my chance is to bump into my good Australian Friends.

Oh what a night that will be!

Of course the Opera Theater is magnificent, but I do have mixed feelings being here, like if I don't fit.

I expect those paintings and this decorum in a Museum where I decide to pay for the entrance or not.

I don't wish to pay any decorum for a Bob Dylan show.

Luckily he doesn't do anymore 'Maggie's Farm' or even 'Like a rolling stone'.

My seat is in a BOX, on the side of the piano and relatively close to the stage. I am seated right in front with another couple behind and the 'chic' Lady on my right.

I can see the entire stage, except Donnie's steel guitar on the far right.

The venue capacity is certainly limited and it is all the problem.

But though I feel sorry for those Fans out with no entrance I want to enjoy my time. After all I made the sacrifice to come all the way to Barcelona!

Lights out. Stu on.

George has difficulty taking his seat so the Boom! Boom! Is not so clear.

(I know people in Australia who are laughing!)

-Things Have Changed

It seems that the 'music bridge' changed lightly from the last Tour.

-Don't Think Twice, It's All Right

Done with Heart and feelings.

-Highway 61 Revisited

No reaction from the crowd.

-Simple Twist Of Fate

Back in the Past.

-Duquesne Whistle

Bob moves to Donnie. Tony moves to Bob.

This one is uncertain.

But I recognize the intro of  Duquesne ...ti    ti ti ti ti ti ...ti ti ti... ...ti ti ti! You know what I mean?

A change for “Summer days”

-Melancholy Mood

Luckily this is my favorite Sinatra.

Nice music intro by the Band.

Bob is a little stiff at the center mike. More static than usual.

His back is hurting him?

-High Water

Oh! oh! I haven't heard this one for ages (maybe 2 years).

New melody that I have to be accustomed to.

No more banjo from Donnie but nice drums from Georgie.

The focus is on George? Rightfully as he is the best drummer in the world!

-Tryin' To Get To Heaven

Well, well, well!

I am bored on this one.

And the public made a mistake applauding when they believed to recognize 'Desolation row'. Same intro.

-Once Upon A Time

At least Bob is center stage and the song is sweet.

-Pay In Blood

I like the song but the Band is playing too much loud. The lyrics are lost.

-Tangled Up In Blue

Well! well! well!

Bobby Dylan hear me!

This is not a great melody. The public doesn't recognize it.

-Soon After Midnight

The lights projecting in the far back are changing the atmosphere.

'It's soon after midnight and I don't want nobody but you'.

It feels so real surrounded by all those 'strangers'. My connection is with the Man on the piano.

Why do I have to share him?????

-Early Roman Kings

I still don't get the meanings of the lyrics. Still don't know who are those 'Early Roman Kings'.

A gang in Chicago?

I don't know how to sing it but the rhythm is one I can dance on.

Bomp, bomp, bomp bomp, bomp!....bomp! bomp!bomp!bomp!

George can do it better than me. Bravo George!

-Desolation Row

Ah! voila!

Perfectly executed.

Some Fans next to me are starting the clapping for each verse, they heard about Madrid show but they don't understand Bob Dylan. He is a REBEL, never doing what you expect.

He's not your Clown.

-Long and Wasted Years

Long time heard ...It could be better center stage, with more drama.

-Thunder On The Mountain

With absolutely no technical problems.

So my good friend Jason who is the sound tech explained about the tech problems in Madrid.

He was not responsible.

Problems came from the Spanish electricity company

Monday: Digital glitch

Tuesday: Spanish power failure.

Friday: Digital glitch.

-Autumn Leaves

Sweet....

-Love Sick

And I am ...sick of Love and Love sick!

“Did I hear someone tell a lie?

Did I hear someone’s distant cry?

I spoke like a child; you destroyed me with a smile

While I was sleeping

I see, I see lovers in the meadow

I see, I see silhouettes in the window

I watch them ’till they’re gone and they leave me hanging on

To a shadow”

This is when we understand why he is a Nobel!

And when I start crying.

They leave the stage with the light on and Bob is making a little bow.

Unusual.

For what I remember he used to leave the stage in the dark, letting the public figuring out it was over!

-Blowin' In The Wind

-Ballad Of A Thin Man

No standing up from the audience except at the very end.

Polite, over polite, too much polite.

Who are they, all those people?

Why did they come to see Bob Dylan?

The 'chic' Lady next to me didn't move a finger. At times I thought she was sleeping.

She hardly understands any English.(?)

I say hello to Jason I didn't have a chance to salute until now.

I’ll see you in Roma, my friend!

A great show for me after all the struggles.

Seeing Bobby at the piano gave me a new 'life'.

And Stu, George, Tony, Charlie and Donnie.

Those guys are my family.

See you all in Roma!

Night, night Bobby, have a safe flight!

VII

Roma I.  3^rd of May.

Early in the morning.

I walk the streets that are full of tourists  like in Barcelona.

The organization a bit more chaotic.

The colliseo, the fountain of Trevis...the cars, the scooters  and the noise.

A breakfast of zucchini pizza and a strong espresso.

The Youth Hostel is not the best but not the worst either, well located by the Termini (train terminal).

The afternoon is time to relax before taking the bus number 910 to the Parco de la musica, another of those Auditorium for classic music.

Bobcats concentrated for these 3 days in Roma, from over Europe and even the States. I counted maybe 30!

I say hello to some of them and chat with others but I feel disconnected.

I don't share any meals and drinks and I will be the only one "begging " for a ticket.

I focus on the Italian crowd, a lot less snobbish than Barcelona, more friendly, more "human".

Some are selling extra tickets for face value, though reasonable for a certain standard,  still too much expensive for my project.

A young man tries to sell, first face value 97,75 euros, then 40 then go down to 20. Alright!

It was not too hard.

I walk in and check the venue. Nice design but nothing like the extravagance of Barcelona.

My seat is first row on the Prima Galleria con Balaustra. I can see the stage very well and I am on the side of the piano. I even see Bobby's fingers running on the keys. I see the white of his boots under the black of his everlasting pants. I see the numerous sheets of paper on the piano. I see the Oscar and still 1 statue bust of a woman. I see Bob drinking from a cup posed in front of Donnie's instruments.

Bob has his regular pants and a long white jacket.

The setlist doesn't change from Barcelona except the seventh is "Honest with me" and not "High water" which I prefer.

Some songs are flooding in a pattern of interlaced spot lights.

Donnie is on mandolin for the "Early Roman kings " and violin for "Blowing in the wind ".

No "Summer day" tonight.

Few times Tony and Charlie will approach Bob to ask what is the next song, as some are uncertain.  Bob changed already few songs since the beginning of the Tour.

The audience reacted enthusiastically when Bob took the stage then was "polite". Not the extravagance I used to know from the Italians.

The venue is small.

The encore put the first rows up and touching the stage and the parter/floor too is finally rising on its feet.

When Bob leaves the stage it seams to me that he sends a kiss to someone in the public, front.

So HE was happy!

That was a great show. I appreciated every second for I never know when I will be IN next.

I wait for the 910 bus back and I start chatting with a young who was disappointed not to hear "Mr. Tambourine man".

I explain about Dylan career and his public and Fans, and that Bob can't truly please ALL his Fans during 1 show.

Isn't it the reason why I go to so many?

Anyway we have a nice conversation, clear and open about Bob Dylan.

I try to convince him to come to the next shows... we'll see!

I had a great day and a happy end!

Night night Bobby!

See you tomorrow.

VIII

Rome II. 4^th of April. No luck.
Rome III. 5^th of April.

And the Early Roman Kings!

I bump into Barron going to Plaza del Popolo.

As it is raining we don't stop for a chat! Ah! ah!

I was almost planning to go to the Vatican but I was afraid to bump into the Pope! Seriously,  I feared the crowd.

So I found out the Leonardo Da Vinci Museo.

Recently I've been interesting in his life and I just read a biography,  so I figure out it is a 'simple twist of fate' that I just passed by.

I spend few hours with his drawings, paintings (reproductions)and machines. Though they were never constructed during his life time most of them were perfectly designed to function and a lot are the source of modern inventions. He was also skilled in anatomy. He was a GENIUS.

Back to the Hostel for a rest.

Bus 910 to the Parco de  la musica.

I seat with few Bobcats. Conversation equal zero.

I put my sign out.

All those BOBCATS! Grrrrr! They had a meeting, here, in Roma.

I am not desperate as my day had been good and I saw 1 show here  already.

But My Good Star is back.

At 9 p.m. sharp , at the time Stu takes the stage, a couple approaches me.

-Yes, we have an extra ticket.

-I give you 20.

Though my Italian is limited I understand the girl wants 40. I say 30. They agree. We literally run inside.

  -        Bob is on!

  I shout.

We run, run, run to the top Galleria.

I decide to stand on the rail. Bob is finishing "Things have changed"

I take my breath back (I'm not young anymore ).

And I dance and I sing, and I Rock and I Roll. I must be the only one.

The floor is politely listening. The security had been enforced, no more rush to the stage!

Bob is inspired on "Tangled up in blue"

"Desolation row " is a must.

Georgie got applause on "Thunder".

A long conversation between Bob, Tony, Charlie and Donnie....then the first notes of

"Full moon and empty arms"

I clap, clap, clap. Few folks join me (they probably don't know why).

Thank you Bobby. My empty arms will be filled with you!

"Pay in blood" was angry.

"Long and wasted years" was center stage. Bobby heard me. Ah! ah!

My best show on that Tour. I am literally exploding on the balcony.

The Audience is.....quiet.

They don't know what they've got, because it WAS a GREAT show.

I go down to say hi to Chris and Jason.

I move to the bus stop number 910.

I want to keep my good feelings for me. No one can share my Happiness!

Who knows my world?

Good night Bobby!

See you in Firenze.

IX

Firenze.6th of April.

I arrive on time with the speed train from Roma.

My Couchsurfing host comes to pick me up at the train station.

We have a little chat and I start walking towards downtown Firenze, all along the river. I reach the Duomo, packed with tourists.

I try to walk in the parallel streets to avoid the crowd when I see a nice shop. Pinocchio shop. I spend half hour looking around as if I am in a museum. If I had money I would buy everything single thing.

As I turn around I literally bump into Donnie. Spontaneous I give him a sweet kiss, as I know Donnie doesn't mind (I've done it before). The only one of the Band I will ever kiss. He is all smile and asks me how I feel. I say fine, and we start chatting about songs, how I like "Thunder" and " Summer days" unfortunately not on the setlist anymore. ..when suddenly I realize he is not alone but with....Mangala I almost swallow my tongue! Whoa! What a surprise?! Well! I feel embarrassed and start backing up from Donnie when Miss. M steps out, followed by Donnie. "See you tomorrow night" I say to Donnie. Of course on stage, as I am not THAT bold to have a Rendez-vous.

It takes me a while to check my feelings back to shape.

I do have a sweet heart for Donnie I always found the most "childish" and sweet of the 5. That he is with Miss M. Is the most heartbreaking for me. Why oh why? Of all the Fans it has to be HER again?

I walk back to my CS host home.

From the Beacon story 2 years ago  I learned to measure and block my sweetest feelings for the Bobcats.

(Precisely at the time Mr. R. Was away from my mind, not being on the road).

The door has closed forever more. So no tears, no depression, just a sad and angry feeling that doesn't leave me in Peace. Mr. R and then Donnie?? Who is that woman "swallowing" the Men I care for?? Am I not entitled to some dreams?

Maybe I should not express it publicly. I will have knives shots on my back!

But I do believe Donnie should stay away from any compromising with the Fans, at least on the road. 

X

Firenze II. 7^th of April.

An early morning rise on a sunny day.

I pack my day bag and start a long day walk.

As I walk out I pass by a farmer market. I buy a peace of fresh bread, a piece of smelly cheese and 3 slices of ham. Good enough for a brunch. A strong espresso in a kiosk and I'm good for a while.

I walk all along the river, cross the bridge, climb the steep hill to Michelangelo plaza to discover Firenze from the top, cross another bridge back on the other side of the river and continue to the Nelson Mandela Forum. On my way I treat myself with a pistachio Italian  natural ice cream. The first one, that I appreciate greatly, as today the weather is hot.

By the time I reach the venue it is close to 4 p.m.

Almost time for sound check.

I find the back entrance with 3 black buses in a parking lot. But I know they are not there, yet.

Some patience latter, a black car is pulling in (but no one is inside!) followed by a silver van (with Bobby in) pulling right by the stage entrance.

Another black van pull in the parking lot with Barron and the boys.

I say hello to Donnie and George. They answer with a smile. Charlie, Tony and Stu are more reserved.

I have plenty of time now to relax my tired feet and my wired brain.

A cappuccino will take me through the night.

By 7 p.m. the crowd is piling in front of the food stands. They open the doors.

I put my sign out. It takes 1 hour before a man and his son decide to give me an extra ticket. I'm over excited. For the first time I can appreciate walking around with a ticket in my pocket.

I don’t care where is the seat for I am sure to find an empty seat on the floor. The security is laxiste (at least for the seats) so I find myself about 14 rows back from the stage on the aisle. So I can move my feet and kind of dance on the songs. The setlist doesn’t change much but I don’t care.

At the end I move front stage for the encore. Nothing spectacular but for the first time I can see Bobby's face close. He is pale and looks "absent". His eyes are not focusing. A little bow and off he goes.

I walk along the esplanade to wait for my bus with few other fans. All others are on car or stay close by.

My CS host is waiting for me. I fall asleep rapidly.

XI

Mantova. 8^th April.

I will be meeting a friend in Mantova a the train station.

I catch a bus to the station,  a train to Verona then a train to Mantova.

I arrive early afternoon and stay at the station reading my magazine.

Then with Italian friends we stay in a Cafe before driving to the venue.

It is a sport arena in a commercial center.

I buy myself a peace of bread to eat and wait spacing around the venue.

Nothing much to do.

They open the doors at 7 p.m. for a show at 9 p.m. but I start asking for a ticket only at 8 pm.

Many fans are selling extra ticket with difficulty so it should not be a problem for me. A nice couple hand me a ticket. The Lady seems to know me from Montreux Jazz festival few years ago! I am popular,  sometimes for good!

I walk in and immediately go down to the floor.

I stand next to the sound board all the way in the back.

I dance and sing under the curious eyes of the security guards.

Only for the encore I try a stage rush but the security is tough and I have to go farther back. Anyway I see him close again, and again I have a strange feeling.

I move out rapidly after the show and wait for the friends to drive me to Bergamo to have a nice sleep. I sleep on and off as usual when I am on the road.

That show was the best since the beginning of the Tour.

Bobby's voice was clear and loud, so was the piano.

"Tangled up in blue" was special with a poetic phraseology and "The early Roman kings" was grandiose. All the songs were technically perfect.

The public was responsive though not over enthusiastic.

Always those applause before the Sinatra songs that I don't quiet understand.

XII

Milano. 9^th of  April

After the Mantova show we drive to Bergamo ; I, S., Marco, Andrea and another Italian Fan who has his home in town.

After a good night sleep, the 4 of us decide to visit the old city of Bergamo. It is a splendid little town where we have lunch. I try the raviolis.

Then Marco and Andrea go different ways, only S. And I are going to Milano for the show, picking up Mauro on the way.

Off we go in the rain.

Bobby plays at the Arcimboldi  theater as so many times before.

I drink another espresso and nonetheless go for a nap in the car.

By 8.00 p.m. I join the crowd at the entrance under the rain.

The scalpers are extremely aggressive so is the security.

By 9.15 p.m. I renounce to find a ticket when a young man with a guitar and an amplifier arrives. He is all excited and tells me he wants to meet Bob Dylan who changed his life! Sure! Easy! Just call him?!

But I feel that he is pure and deserve a chance.

I direct him where the buses are parked and try to explain the ritual ; Bobby will rush out right after "Ballad"  and he will either climb in a black car or jump inside his bus.

By accident we find out that we can hear the show through the door so we kind of "hear" the songs. I dance on my feet. It is a surrealist situation as we are out in the dark and dump(but not under the rain).

When Bob is on "Ballad" I check around, see no black car but the buses running. They will leave by bus.

As soon as "Ballad" is over I move to where the buses are parked.

The Boys walk under the rain to their bus. Barron is escorting a man covered by a coat to the musicians' bus. Bobby's bus back up to be close to the stage door.

I don't see anyone stepping in that bus but the door is not visible.

I doubt it was Bob going in the musicians' bus. So? Security is playing tricks?

It doesn’t matter. I had fun with that musician from Egypt who disappeared,  certainly disappointed!

I join the Fans who where in, and they are disappointed by the show. Again, there was a technical problem on 2 songs. The show was not good.

Because I was not in? Ah! Ah!

S.  decides to drive to Bergamo. So S. I and Mauro are back home by midnight.

Not such a great evening!

XIII
Zurich 11th of April.

Left my good friend Stefano who put me in a tram then a train to Milano then a train to Zurich.

Though there is a delay my Couchsurfing host Rudolf is kindly waiting for me under the statue suspended up high.

I get some Swiss Francs, buy a day pass and off we go and chat.

The house is easily accessible by tram and the 2 cats are instantly my new friends.

I walk fast to the COOP to buy groceries and Rudolf and I prepare a good supper, drinking tea from the Samovar Rudolf brought back from Siberia where he once spent 6 months! Brr!

We chat about traveling and the hard life on the road!

I know Rudolf will be my friend forever as I plan to go to Russia, at least St Petersburg to visit the Hermitage. Another dream!

I sleep well and next day after a BIG breakfast we visit the old town of Zurich. Rudolf knows me well and takes me to the police office?! To see some murals by Giacometti. Oh! I never heard of those. Unfortunately no photos are allowed.

Rudolf has to go his way, and me mine, the Hallenstadion.

But, wait a minute! I've been here before!

It seems million years ago!

I bump into Bjorn and Host, we chat warmly then each one has to be ready for the show.

I have no ticket but 2 young guys will hand me one long time before show time. I walk in, find out it is easy to be on the floor and decide just to stay by the sound board on an empty seat.

I enjoy the show all by myself and run to the tram 14, right after the show, all the way home.

The sound was great, Bob was great, public was fine.

Another one of a nice and easy experience.

Thank you Bobby for taking me to Zurich and those good friends on the road.

XIV

Neu Ulm 12th of April.

We heard about bad rumors ; train conductors strikes, an unexploded w.w.II bomb in Neu Ulm...oh! oh!

I start panicking for I DO HAVE A TICKET for that show and that would be a misery to miss it!

Michael, my young Doctor in medicine Couchsurfing host, is waiting for me at the train station. We walk 20 minutes home ; a community of 4 youngsters. Michael, who is a vegetarian,  cooks some food and I accept a strong cup of coffee.

Then he has to study and I have to reach Neu Ulm. Easily accessible by bus number 5.

The old city of Ulm is beautiful,  particularly the old Protestant church, the highest in Europe (after the Sagrada familia, not finished yet). I take time to step in to admire the stained glasses. I missed the Chagall ones in Zurich for I needed to pay, and we should  not pay to go in God's house! Right?

We don't pay at the Synagogue in Jerusalem!

I spend few minutes looking at the Rathaus, also a splendid building.

Neu Ulm is less charming. The concert hall is a sport arena. I do have a ticket in my pocket and I feel proud and free. I'm not a "beggar". Thanks to my good friend Bjorn.

I walk in as a normal client and take my seat not far from Julien, the Belgium Frenchy Fan.

I enjoy myself. And as people move on to the front for the encore...well! I follow.

I see Bobby close and it is a warm feeling.

As I used to feel when it was mainly GA on a Tour.

Great show again. Great feelings of being part of a never ending adventure.

Another thanks to Bobby.

Nonetheless I found his voice a bit weak today. Maybe he had a cold, maybe he was tired??

I have the key of the house as Michael is away at a party. I got lost around that big church and end up in bed around midnight.

Sweet dreams in another onetime bed.

See you tomorrow Bobby dear!

XV

Salzburg Friday the 13th of April.

Arriving late. Those trains?!

I take the bus 25 as my Couchsurfing host advised me.

Stopping at Anif zoo.

This time my good friend is a dog, huge but sweet; a Labrador.

Kuffy,  Buffy, Goofy?? Don't remember the name. I call him Doggy!

Tamara is a little bit of a depressed woman. Not in my Bob Dylan world but one of her own. Vegan, even for Doggy!?!

We don't eat much, opposite of Rufolf. My stomach is luckily strong.

We take Doggy for a walk and Tamara has a bad tendency of believing that dog is human! Well! I saw people asking their Iphones some questions, so, the world is going wrong!

I am over tired and the dark side of Couchsurfing is, even though you are not supposed to give money, you have to give some of your time and privacy. This is 'paying' a highly price at times. For that reason I canceled my couchsurfing in Brno and booked a ....youth hostel in a dorm of 4, expecting no bad company.

I promised Tamara a concert ticket for tonight show in Salzburg. After all she's a kind Lady.

I couldn't imagine the trouble I put myself in!

We arrive at the venue, a sport arena, not too bad for extra tickets but...the area is literally littered with scalpers. Oh me oh my!

It took all my good spirit, my humility, my sarcastic sense of bad humor to finally pay 10 euros for a parterre seat, and right on time.

We run inside, as me, I have a ticket from my good friend Bjorn.

I take my seat with discipline.

What a surprise!

Bobby walks in... a hat on his head. A large black hat, a black shirt, a black suit embroidered with white seams.

Oh Mama! Will this be the end?.

The sound is incredibly clear and loud. Bobby's voice is back from Neu Ulm.

When I wait for him to move center stage and start "Once upon a time" or "Full moon and empty arms" he takes a long time talking with Donny. As Tony didn't get the message he moves quickly to Bob. Bob stays on the piano, adjusts the mike and starts "Come rain or come shine".

It is not the first time I hear this one but it brings tears to my eyes.

Extremely sensible. He is singing this song with a lot of emotions, the emotions he is now losing on the "classic" ones.

The rest is pure Jewel. Each one of them.

Now the break and I check the movement of the crowd. Stage rush or not.

I follow 2 or 3 folks and I am 10 meters from the stage for BITW.

I watch Barron on the right taking measure against the photographs but no more. So for Ballad, there is a rush to the stage.

I am RIGHT in front of My Bobby.

Oh! I cry.

I see his tongue, his "bad" teeth. His ghost pale face. His clear blue eyes, focusing on nothing. Looking in the wilderness of his mind!

I sing along, breathing when he is breathing, seeming out of normal rhythm.

But I know, this is Bob Dylan style.

Then the bow.....the goodbye.

the MAGIC is over.

Back to the normality of a world I don’t understand.

I fetch ticket stubs for my good friend in Italy.

Greet the boys at the boards , sound and lights.

And meeting Tamara is difficult for she is not a Dylan fan. She knows only BITW.

The return home is hard. I review in my head the last 10 minutes of that show. Again, again and again I see the pale ghost face looking at .... emptiness.

I hope you are fine my Dear.

Wishing you all the best.

So long Bobby!

A day of rest and see you soon in another country, another time, another World!

And it had been a fabulous Friday 13th.

XVI
Brno 15th of April.

The streets have names that I can't pronounce.

The train station reminds me of the central bus station in ... Tel Aviv.

People are selling shoes and clothes in the "basement"!

Not the "modern times" of Salzburg!

Bad start when I leave the train station, I take the wrong direction. Should buy myself a compass.

I turn around the old city and after one hour and a half reach my destination; the Fleda Youth Hostel. 23€ for 2 nights.

It is full of deaf and mute youngsters. They came to have a party at the bar. I use the ear plugs some "mean" people handed me at one of the Bobby Dylan show! Ear plugs!? Why do people pay 150€ a ticket to hear....,nothing?

Even if their are mute, not talking, only with hands, they make noise, particularly that they don't hear them noise. So, earplugs are welcome.

XVII

Next morning. 16^th of April.

I walk to the venue. Well! Not a nice , pretty one. One of those sport arena (basket).

I walk to the downtown area, the old city.

Though some of the buildings facade are stylish, they are not kept in good shape, just used as shops.

I see Barron and Stu passing by. I see a Fan (I met before) seated at a cafe, so I join. We see Tony walking by, all bended. Poor Tony! His back must be hurting him.

We spend some time together with the Fan. I had the idea of inviting Tony for a drink but we don't see him again.

The show tonight is at 7 p.m. (??) So I walk back to the hostel, then the venue.

Brno is not an exited city. A bit disappointing!

The line forms at 6 p.m. in a total chaos. They want to fill in 5 thousands fans using 2 doors and security control.

I see Al Santos passing by, worried about the timing!

Me, I worry about a ticket I don't happen to have.

Scalpers are around, plus regular people trying to make some bucks.

A couple of folks walk inside with an extra ticket they don't

want to give away?! I truly don't understand!

I stay close to the doors and hear Bobby's voice and the Band. I sing and dance under the eyes of astounded security guards and TV crew!

 7.        45 p.m. ....It starts raining, I'm still out, finally happy JUST to hear the show, when one of the persons with extra tickets hands me one.

 I rush in. Seat on the stairs and look at Bobby's white hat!

He is doing "come rain or come shine" center stage.

I will move close by, on the right side of the venue, standing on the side, as the security seems to be cool about this. They focus on the photographers.

The sound is not the best for my position, a little bit muffled.

Bob is doing "Love sick" and surprisingly "missed" the final lyrics.

'I'll do anything just to be with you' turns into

'I think of you and I wonder if you‘ve ever been true!'

Improvisation? Deliberate statement?

Who knows?

Surprising Brno adventure. Truly not a city I want to see again!

Many of those Fans didn't understand English!

They came to see the Icon, the Legend.

I'm visibly an anomaly in their world.

I felt like a "freak" and I felt they were "retarded" (in a sense of not open minded to the new world, except for Mc Donald's and Starbucks and Nick shoes). I may be wrong.

XVIII

Wien 16th of April.

From Brno I travel with Ian and Magna on a slow train.

I am loaded with 3 cups of coffee!

We separate at the main station. I go on until Meidling Bahnhof, catch a bus and arrive at Raffael's house, my Couchsurfing host.

Just time to figure out where is the venue and I move on with metro U6.

I will sure know a lot about those trains, metros, buses all over Europe.

The venue...I know. I've been here before. Huge sport Arena.

What a change from those Opera houses in Spain!

I have a better chance for a ticket but the atmosphere is different.

The capacity should be around 6 000!

The sound is not always perfect, as for the view....I just figured out when Bob was center stage, I couldn't see his .... head. Blocked by a light spot!

I had a great chance tonight. Many scalpers were trying to make some bucks. After 2 hours of search I was still without ticket when a man seemed to be desperate. He wants to sell an extra for 100€, but the show is already on and the scalpers still trying to sell some left over.

Finally he asks me 20€, which is reasonable.

We rush inside, climbing all the way up on the third balcony (no stage rush for me tonight!).

Bob and the Band are finishing "Don't think twice".

The sound is not the best from up here and Bobby's head is cut off every time he is  center stage, holding on his two mikes now, his legs static.

No hat tonight. His fluffy hair in the wild. From the distance he is the Bobby of the 60's, particularly on "Highway 61" and "Thunder", the most Rock and Roll of all.

Again "come rain or come shine", center stage. No other change. No surprise.

No big reaction from the public, except on "Thunder". "Desolation row " is not recognized before the words ... Desolation Row. No clapping (except me!).

Nice show but not exceptional and for me just average. I'm spoiled!

I get confused with the tram and metro but manage to be in bed around 11p.m. The show started 7.30p.m and lasted one hour and 40 minutes.

Raffael, a little bit sarcastic, said he thought Bob Dylan was dead. When he looks at my angry face, he says he was mistaken with Bob Marley.

It doesn't make me more happy as Marley was my second Bobby love!

My dreams are nightmares; trains, buses, metros, scalpers, tickets......

Hopefully Bobby had a better night, maybe flying to Leipzig??!

See you soon!

XIX

Leipzig 18th of April.

Arriving at the train station on time with a change in Nurnberg where Bob will play later this month.

The Youth Hostel is fantastic;  new , clean, spacious, free tea or coffee all day long! For 12 € a night.

I first take a good shower before visiting the old city as a tourist.

I bump into George inside the Johan Sebastian Bach church, listening to Organ music.

I walk 20 minutes to the venue.

Wait a minute! I've been here before! Millions years back...

I relax in the afternoon,  trying to figure out my stay in Krefeld.

Not the easiest as it will take me 3 trains to reach it in one day.

But tomorrow is another day.

By 6 p.m. I get ready in my new summer pants I just bought from an Oriental shop.

It is summer now, 23 degree Celsius.

The venue is HUGE. 8000?

I have a good chance for a ticket. And I get one half hour before 8p.m.

I take any empty seat. I choose one on the floor, facing the speakers. Best sound you can get.

Bob has his white hat on but he will get rid of it after "Melancholy mood".

I am next to a "big" fan, so we have a great time.

Bob is expressive on "Desolation row". Staccato style.

"Thunder" is uplifting a roar. But I find the public again too much polite.

Only 2 fans are dancing in the left.

XX

Krefeld. review by Benjamin Thibault.

1/4 - ROVIN 'GAMBLER NOT BORED - GERMAN TRIP # 1

Posted May 10, 2018 By frankeelee11

It's 7 a.m. when I leave my mountains that morning. No train, no bus, this time, I start my trusty Peugeot 307 - altmost From a Buick 6 - and I'm embarking with me 8 « ride sharin' » persons (not all at the same time, don't worry for them) through the East of France and part of Germany. Nice encounters including Tiss, the current Christine Ringer's drummer, picked up in Dijon to drive him to a concert hall near Nancy. Jazz is his life, especially drums. The road is long to reach such a level ! I enjoy his musician's anecdotes and he wishes me good luck for my upcoming Dylanian concerts.

It will take me some luck, a little, even a lot, because I set myself a goal on this German tour: get in for free on 3 dates: Krefeld, Bielefeld and Nuremberg on the program of the endless Bob Dylan tour . I would make a 4th but with a ticket. Indeed Baden Baden is sold out since a long time in a small venue with only 2000 seats. I managed to get a ticket in the 14th row center for a price defying my principles. But never mind, it's Bob and he'll be bored if he sees I'm missing. More seriously, this is my last concert on this tour and who knows when I'll see him again …

April 19, 2018, Krefeld

I drove all day. 12 hours under an almost summer sun, understanding nothing of German signs that take me in crazy directions. Here, there is no question of Highway 61, neither reviewed, nor corrected, it is confusion and I drag on small country roads with difficulty before reaching a semblance of fast track shortly before Cologne (pronounced Köln) and I wonder why we persist in France in pronouncing the names of cities differently from the locals. Of course, there are certainly acceptable arguments, but when you're in your car looking for your way it's annoying not to understand where you're going. "Get a map, stupid! You will tell me. And you would be right. In addition I love the maps, but I wanted to play stinge, on this trip, so too bad for the nerves! I finally arrive at the Krefled outskirts, a quiet town rather pleasant, everything is clean, in its place, reassuring ... Fortunately there is I, in the middle of all this quietude, to get some honking blows from too wise Germans who don't like my lost driver U-turns!

My AirBnB landlady welcomes me. It is 8 p.m. A newspaper is open on the dining table. She can not believe that Bob Dylan is performing in her city where there is not much going to happen. She asks me where I'm going after the concert the next day, having not booked a night at her home. I explain that I would probably sleep in my car as she already has someone who has booked.

-"No, no, I'll find you a bed! ".

Okay ! So here I am staying for 2 days in Krefled, and no extra charge! It starts well but for everything to be perfect, I would need a good beer. She then indicates me a forest with a huge terrace where they serve beer and food until late. They are wise these Germans, everything I love ; trees, pretzels and liters of beer. The place is perfect. I struggle to make myself understood, the few servers here do not seem to speak English and unfortunately I can not speak a word of their language. Fortunately, no matter the country crossed, with some coins, we always arrive at some ends and finally I sit to taste my drink and start reading the panegyric book by Guy Debord which was strongly advised by Robert Martin. The day is fading away. Everything becomes dark around me. People start to leave and I smoke one last cigarette thinking about the concert the next day before doing like them. See you tomorrow Bob!

April 20, 2018, Krefeld

Bells ring when, happy and unknown, I enter the city ...

It seems that I'm in the right place even if I move on a fragile thread, a myth under the arm, a feather in the hand, young forever. Dylan is here somewhere and I can't believe that I, from the height of my 28 years, I can interfere in his space for a few days. The doors should have closed forever more, but the road is still long ...

I write these lines and the wind caresses the leaves of my notebook, I have the hair that wanders in the air, my thoughts seek answers. At this moment, I am engraving in my mind an indelible memory, I know it, and there will be others in the next days.

A carrot mango juice and a coffee later, the adventure begins! I have a gospel tune trotting in my head, it must have started when I was 2 years old, I was young, you know ... I contemplate the red brick church which is a call to meditation in itself. Before leaving my place in the sun, I smile and feel the joy of being on the road again. At every street corner all around me, I find this urban strangeness that is part of each of my travels: I lose all familiarity and wherever there is my glance there is a chasm, something to explore but too futile to catch. The taste of coffee reminds me of Scandinavia, I am a vagabond and a solitary ghost. Always in the right place ...

The bell tower indicates 10:22. The center of the pendulum is as blue as the sky. An elderly gentleman smiles at me and tells me something in German that I don't understand. I smile back and resume my journey.

A small detour through the venue is needed, just to see if the buses are there. The technicians have already pulled out the trucks and I see the "beat the streets" parked on the side. Nothing happened very much, it's too early for the soundcheck, Bob must be at his hotel. I decide to go to lunch in the neighboring Netherlands, Krefled is located near the border.

I then find the biggest record store that I was offered to see in this world. There is some new but there are mostly many old ones. I spend more than one hour in this paradise for music lover and leaves the arms loaded with some nuggets I've been looking for a while.

Back in Germany, I'm going to look for my friend Laurette who follows Bob's tour since Lisbon. I find her at the station, exhausted after a long journey by train but happy to be there. Last night's show in Leipzig was good even though she finds that Bob is tired on this tour. We stop to have a bite before we meet Julien, another Belgian Bobcat who came specially from Brussels by car to attend his 3rd concert on this spring tour. I had already met him quickly last year at the concert in Antwerp and we spend a great time discussing. He's really a nice guy who has the same passion as me for Dylan. I put on my lucky hat before taking out my sign on which is written:

« Do you want to make me happy? I'm looking for 1 friendly ticket. »

Some people enjoy this message, others do not understand, and many ask me what I mean by "friendly ticket". Each time, I take the time to explain my approach: I come from far, I'm passionate about Bob Dylan but it costs me too much to buy a ticket every night, so rather than you entering the room with an extra ticket, I would love to come with you. In addition, I pay the beer! Since it is usually people with a seat to sell who come to see me, I always invite them to try to sell their ticket first. Generally, 2 hours before the concert, I make people laugh and when they are nice they wish me good luck or apologize for not having an extra ticket for me. I always smile and even when people ignore me I wish them a good concert and tell them that "Bob is in a good mood! "

You must know that on the Dylan tours there are what we call scalpers, not nice people who want to make money by selling concert tickets, those, with Laurette, we avoid. They are often aggressive and buy tickets from the maximum of people seeking to sell below the purchase price and sell them a few minutes later to latecomers. Of course, their margin is important. For each one his own way! Theirs is money. Me, it's Dylan and tonight I'll go in!

I see many faces, I'm even interviewed by the local newspaper! Come a guy with a Neil Young t-shirt. I tell him that he is also good, "the Loner", and that I would like to see him in concert but that tonight it is Dylan that I came to applaud, after 12 hours of road! He appreciates my approach and a friend of his could not come. It's the opportunity! He asks me how much I can spend? The concert starts in 15 minutes and I have no more time to lose if I want to enter the venue. I offer him 20 € to pay the beers for his friends. He accepts ! I still roam a few minutes to find a ticket for Laurette but she insists that I move in quickly so as not to miss the beginning of the concert. I am disappointed that she remains on the sidelines but that's the game.

So I go inside the Arena thanks to my benefactor, who in addition has reserved good seats on the right side of the stage. I would see Bob play the piano all night, and this time I have the binoculars! I'm sweaty when I get back to my seat, Stu comes back on stage 5 minutes later, it's 7:58 p.m., Bob starts his concert at 8p.m. The old ones like their schedule ...!

As every time my feelings get excited, I'm relieved and so happy to be here! Bob has a shiny golden outfit and the Band is all dressed in black. The public is polite though rather expressive at the beginning of the concert, which surprises me from them! Dylan quietly gets in the way, « Things Have Changed » is wrong, the sound is not in focus. Fortunately the Band gets back on track and Bob triggers the magic with an improvised piano on « Don't Think Twice » that moved me a lot. Waooo, now I'm there, I don't give up a second of the concert when the machine takes us on a road 61 (almost) abandoned, haunted by the Great Spirits of the Blues and a piano that rolls and shines by his jumps mood. There is no doubt, Bob is in control!

Krefeld, Germany

KönigPALAST

April 19, 2018

1. Things Have Changed

2. Do not Think Twice, It's All Right

3. Highway 61 Revisited

4. Simple Twist Of Fate

5. Duquesne Whistle

6.Melancholy Mood

7. Honest With Me
8. Tryin’ To Get To Heaven
9. Come Rain Or Come Shine

10. Pay In Blood

11. Tangled Up In Blue

12. Early Roman Kings

13. Desolation Row

14. Love Sick

15. Autumn Leaves

16. Thunder On The Mountain

17. Soon After Midnight

18. Long and Wasted Years

(again)

19. Blowin 'In The Wind

20. Ballad Of A Thin Man

I think this is the first time I'm entitled to « Simple Twist of Fate », which is not my favorite song but still performed well. I noticed some modifications in the text (it is in particular question of year 1958: "back in 1958 ..." unless it is 1968?). The construction of the set is solid, the pieces are linked together very well and complement each other. Bob knows exactly what energy to deploy and when. However, he does not make much effort on « Duquesne Whistle » as he is more likely to whisper as well as« Simple Twist of Fate » just before ... a drop in rhythm already? But his voice regains color with a superb « Melancholy Mood ».It has to be known, the Franck Sinatra songs were warmly applauded during the 4 concerts I attended. Do not ask me why, I don't have the answers! More than twenty Bobcats have left the NET since he sings Sinatra and plays a static set. They are just a handful to follow Bob's tour in the whole, including my friend Laurette. The shy ones will start the tour, and many prefer the tour ends. I left the caravan where it became interesting since it ended with 3 concerts in Italy. Almost everyone I met in Germany, who could be in the category of "Bobcats", went to Verona the following week. Not me ... but considering what I experienced during 4 evenings, it's without regret. So to get back to our subject, why the hell is there still an audience to applaud the covers before he even started singing. Is it because he does it very well? Unlike all the songs in his repertoire that are reviewed and embellished evening after night, the covers are static and no surprises, even the choreography of Bob is millimeter, but let's put things flat right now: it's lace! Absolutely crazy and a voice ... from which I still do not recover. And then he takes the front (or back ...?) of the stage with a mike center stage. We had 3 covers, that's good, I would not have taken more but I enjoyed the 3, especially this « Melancholy Mood » the first night. Subsequently, I preferred « Come Rain or Come Shine » who made its appearance on this tour and it's pretty good Bob, it's pretty good ... Good and then I imagine that many recognized better Sinatra's covers that Dylan's repertoire ... sad world.

I'm hypnotized and focused on the concert by watching Bob with binoculars, which is a new exercise for me. This is a different way to appreciate his presence, especially I can see his rare expressions because, even if the body moves, his face is often frozen. Comes from the past the very good « Honest With Me » that I have always appreciated, especially in Geneva in 2011, with the voice riddled it was something to hear him shout:

My wife got a face like a teddy bear

She's tossin 'a baseball bat in the air

Well still today, he knew how to transform the piece to make it a Rock both heavy and solid while maintaining an original jazzy line, very different from the studio version. It's successful and the band starts to have fun tonight with this song.

Since the beginning of the concert I look forward to « Trying to get to Heaven » for several reasons. First, because it's one of my favorite songs on the Graal « Time out of Mind ». Secondly, because there is in this song the last two verses that I dream to hear with Dylan in front of me. Third, because I never had the chance to hear it live. Yes but here, I was quite critical of this song because of the arrangement that I heard in bootleg on the internet, we know that each listening is different, let's see what it will give. I get my binoculars and laugh at the beginning of the song when the public believes they recognize « Desolation Row », it's true that the beginning is similar ... well I'm not disappointed, and especially very moved to hear him sing this text that I find absolutely sublime since a very long time. And that I know by heart. However, I can not detect the nostalgia as in the versions of 2011 which I think remain the best since the release of this piece in 1997. May be missing a harmonica? But of course it misses a harmonica !!! Great God, I want to be a little mouse and blow to Bob that no, the answer is not in the wind, but in one of his 8 harmonicas posed right next to him!

I know, pictures have leaked where we see the pretty dentures just waiting to be sprayed with the saliva of an old senile ... oula sorry I get carried away ... nevertheless they are there! SO WHY BOB ??? WHY ??? My friend Laurette excuses him with some health problems, especially lungs ... Mouai ! I do not believe that for a moment. If he has the energy to chain 30 concerts at soon 77, he also has the strength to take out 3 notes on this sublime ballad that is « Tryin to Get to Heaven ». Like the electric guitar that he has long kept on-stage, without even playing for years, he must keep his Hohner as a talisman that must reassure him. And then Bob is never safe from any impro ...

For lack of the harmonica in the ears, I notice since 2 years that the piano has much more room and he plays very well. Many pieces are articulated around the instrument of Bob, it is the case of « Pay in Blood » which has the chance of a new arrangement, and successfully! I was a little tired of hearing it but in Krefeld they reviewed the arrangement and it swinged! Yes Yes ! And everyone on stage has their eyes on ... Bob and his improbable touch. He puts a lot of energy on the 88 keys of his Grand Piano and it continues on « Tangled up in Blue », much quieter, it has been totally corrected to offer a moment of eternity to Bob who is delighted to twist the verses while strumming pretty notes ... well if you want my feeling I would say that this new arrangement does not stick exactly to the text, but after all, why not ...

« Early Roman King »s moves, I may repeat myself but this song became indispensable to the set of Bob, and for the moment it is Charlie who is pleased with a guitar that shakes the eardrums of the little old people who began to fall asleep in the first row ... I yell more than usual on the 4th verse:

I ain't dead yet

Ma Bell still rings

I keep my fingers crossed

Like them early roman kings

Sorry my neighbors men and neighbors women, but every time, it's getting out of me. I'm laughing and screaming, as if to say to Bobby that I agree with him. I do not know, there's something I love in « Early Roman Kings », a freshness that only an old crooner knows how to make

I can dress up your wounds

With a blood-clotted rag

I ain't afraid to make love

To a bitch or a hag

Yeah, it's sharp, it rolls, it even shines! The diction is impeccable, it seems we hear him doing a slam. It moves my guts and I tell myself that he has the class. This piece makes perfect sense in concert, keep going Bob, keep going ...

Well this time we do not make a mistake, it is indeed « Desolation Row » that starts and the public begins to clap hands like in Madrid, except that it does not come from Bob voluntarily, so he does not bite at all at the hook and metamorphoses himself the time of a song. In fact, every band member morphs when it's time to play « Desolation Row ». My feeling is clear about this, it's the biggest song in the current set. We all know that « Desolation Row » is a great song, point. Yeah but he could crash it in concert and then it would fall by the wayside as he does with me in « Tangled up in Blue ». He has interpreted this song 567 times. Of the 567, I had to be present at 10 performances. It was always a shock (especially Bercy 2011 and Seine Musicale 2017). Tonight in Krefeld I take a crazy fun obviously, as the rest of the group and there are many exchanges between Tony and Bob, both laugh and send the ball. Bob knows how to be expressive and tonight it is on this legendary piece that it is revealed. It's great, it's perfect, but it's nothing compared to what is waiting for me in a few days in Nuremberg ... I would come back to it.

The end of the concert already happens, « Love Sick » surprises me because this year Bob is not center stage but behind the piano, and it gives relief to the song. It is less "dark", I preferred the 2017 version but musically, it is much more interesting, with guitar / piano parts that give me chills.

« Thunder on the Moutain » moves the audience but we still do not know where Alicia Keys went ...

I was looking for her even clear through Tennessee

As always, I want to go for a ride in the pit for the encore, even if it is not sure. I get up from my seat for « Long & Wasted Years » and stay in the benches by putting myself on the right on the stage, standing, I overhang the world, the sound is rotten but I don't bother, I embark on a choreography worthy of ... Bob Dylan, and in 3 minutes time, I recite the song at the same time as the man "who wears dark glasses" I am literally the King of the World and burst like a little crazy one.

I wear dark glasses to cover my eyes

There are secrets in them I can't disguise

Come back baby if I ever hurt your feelings I apologize

I think that when my back was turned

The whole world behind me burned

Yeah, I think so too, buddy. What a fucking song ...

Though I'm not very objective tonight in Krefeld, it was lacking a lot of intensity, but rest assured, I was standing behind to raise the level!

Good ! going down the steps to reach the pit, me and a few acolytes are stopped by a few security monkeys. Sorry, I have no sympathy for security in a concert hall. I want to believe that they have orders. But blocking the road to many people who approach the scene after the encore? … there are limits. No one is running, no one is shouting, we are just moving gently towards the stage and stopped as if we were about to pull out a gun. "IT'S THE END OF THE CONCERT, DUDES! "

I would have asked myself this question many times during my trip: Why the hell is security so tough at Dylan's shows? A deliberate choice of his entourage? From the man himself? I have seen the prices of his concerts tickets explode, especially since his Nobel Prize for literature. It is certain, he seems to address a different audience, more snobbish, more comfortable. I spew here my frustration dear reader, this is not at all the atmosphere that I experienced 10 years back. I remember as if it was yesterday from my first Bob Dylan concert at the Palais des Congrès in Paris on April 7th, 2009, there was EVERYTHING: young people, gray heads, post hippies, new hippies, yuppies , children, Hugues Aufrays (actually, 1 Hugues Aufray is enough), ... I keep that in mind and it surprised me to see all these age groups with a decidedly wide wallet. Bob was intergenerational and I thought it was great!

No more of that today, with prices that border on ridicule (400 € in Madrid to name just one example ...), the audience is not the one I imagined for a Dylan concert. In short, I really wondered if it was Bob who wanted to sort all this world by offering expensive places, or if he had not the slightest awareness. So at the time of the encore, it was just guys like me, who had a great time and 2 liters of beer in the stomach who got up from their seat (and because the concert was good). Except that it does work and we are copiously released by men without brains. Bob is it you, dictating the rules? How sad it is to see your concerts ending, sited, when we just want to cheer and dance on « Blowin in the Wind » (yes, I assure you, it works!) and lift a hat on « Ballad of at Thin Man ». Instead I standed alone against the 'gorillas' and I ended up taking an empty seat in the 3rd row on the far right where I am terribly frustrated. I would not really benefit from the encore that night, well, a little bit on the ballad of the skinny man who is the best finish! People applaud, but do they really understand the lyrics? Did they really appreciate the artist they had in front of them? I leave with doubts but I am happy with this concert. Surely, everyone is free to enjoy a concert as he wants and if it is while sitting without moving an iota, so be it! It may be me who is wrong but for me the best concerts of the Zim I attended, it was standing up.

I join Laurette who unfortunately could not come in tonight and is waiting at the gates for the buses to go out. Oddly they are still on the parking lot while the concert is over for almost 10 minutes. She explains to me that the members of the group have returned to their bus at the end of the concert but she has not seen Barron (one of Dylan's 2 bodyguards), which means that Bob is still in the venue ... ah ? After a few minutes we see a small group of people leaving, probably Mr.Dylan's acquaintances ? Barron appears, without Bob, of course, who had to leave his dressing room discreetly to take refuge in his personal bus. We are in the front row to say goodbye to the 2 buses, "Thank you Bob, see you in Bielfeld !!! "

I end the evening with my friend Julien talking about Dylan, The Stones, poetry, our lives ... it's already tomorrow, time to say goodbye and see you soon on the road to the Never Ending Tour!

"

XXI

Munster Bielefeld 20th, 21th of April.

Between Krefeld and Bieledeld there is a day off.

None of my Couchsurfing hosts in each city are able to host me for more than a night.

I decide to stay in Munchen. I just take a train there and go to Starbucks to connect with the WIFI.

A friend from the past, Johannes, contacts me and says he lives and works in Munchen. I was not aware.

We meet at a cafe next to the train station and he helps me to find a Hostel.

Next morning we travel together to Bielefeld where we meet with other Fans.

My friend Benjamin will help me to get to my Couchsurfing host, Julia, we spend the afternoon together picnicking before reaching the venue.

Ben also needs a ticket and I invite Julia to take a chance. She will join us later on bicycle.

Bielefeld is also an Arena. Capacity might be 5000. But I learned that capacity alone is not a criteria for a cheap ticket.

We arrive with Ben just after the sound check and we say hi to members of the Band walking around.

No Bob to be seen!

Early Ben and I start looking for tickets. The scalpers are not helping.

I manage to beat them and get 2 tickets for Ben and I, then Julia arrives and I recommend her to stay a little longer and try to get one of those tickets some people are still selling outside. She'll get one for 20€. Not bad.

So we are all 3 IN.

A lot better than Krefeld.

We decide not to seat but stand up by the right side of the stage on the balcony.

We have a great time.

"Things have changed" is not the best as the sound needs to be adjusted.

But then Bobby's voice is clear and loud.

Charlie has some kind of problem when I see him coming to Bob and talking in his ear. Tony also is coming to the piano. Sound problem? Guitar problem?

The public is quiet but not Ben and I.

We sing and dance along on the top of the world!

We can see Bobby's hands on the piano.

He is wild on "Highway 61".

The songs center stage are still bodily static. I have the feeling (my feeling) that he is again "holding" on the 2 mikes. No legs movement at all.

But his voice is strong.

"Desolation row" is the must. I feel like in Paradise.

The public, finally,  reacts.

Bob makes a slight mistake on "Love sick".

'Sometimes silence is like thunder'

Will be

'Sometimes I wonder'

But who noticed?

"Thunder" is rocking and rolling high.

Even "trying to get to heaven " is powerful.

It is already "long and wasted years" ... time is flying like a jet set.

More Fans are packing around me.

I move closer to the stage as Ben goes down the floor for a stage rush. There will be none. Security is tight and the audience is disciplined!

I see Bob from his back for the encore.

He looks fine, his fingers moving on the keys of the piano. But at times he will rest his left or right hand on the top of the piano, playing with only one hand.

The bow is quick and off he walks.

Great show.

"Cold" public.

But Ben and I , we had a WONDERFUL time.

So

Thanks Bobby, the Band, the crew people.

See you all in Nurnberg!

Night, night Bobby!

XXII

Nuremberg 22sd of April.

Ben offers me a ride to Nuremberg and though I still have one ride on my TrainPass I accept. Ben is good company and I hope I didn't 'drunk' him up with my 'Me and Bobby D.' stories. (I do have quiet a lot).

We pick up 2 bla bla car guests at the train station.

They fall asleep on my French blabbering.

I do have a CS host but Ben offers a camping night in his car. Let's be crazy! Go camping.

We drop the 2 BlaBla and go pick down the tent.

The camping site is 10 minutes walk from the venue. What a chance!

We walk there and bump into Joachim who will do only 2 shows on that Tour. He used to be a big follower but things have changed.

The venue is again an Arena and not a small theater. Capacity, about 6 000.

Ben got 2 friendly tickets and we walk in. Of course not taking our seats, probably squeezed between 2 old,  good pensioned, retired folks coming to see the Geek!?

We are FANS.

We take our standing positions on the left of the top balcony. A usher, who is a bitter, b. Woman doesn't want us to stand. Ben tries to argue,  I prefer to walk away. Never argue with a B...

I seat on the stairs a block away and Ben moves one block away from that B.

Finally I join Ben, standing up and ...

I have THE TIME of that Tour. Meaning I was and will never be so HAPPY.

Oh my! We both sing and dance and shout!

Bob is on "Pay in blood" and we scream along 'I paid in blood but not my own.'

Bobby catching the vibes starts to be wild. We are sending him some energy and he is sending them back to us. He is not hanging on the second mike but stands with his profile to the public, center stage.

He is wild on the piano . The "Early Roman Kings" must turn themselves around inside their tombs.

"Desolation row " is exceptional as Ben and I are supporting the act and doing the Choir. The public, at least below us, is reacting.

Ben and I are literally on Fire!

On "Love and wasted years " Bobby is profile facing left and suddenly whirl wheels towards us. Did he hear us? We want to believe it.

The public reacts on " Thunder on the mountain " and roar at the end.

I scream a "Bravo Georgy " lost in the tumult.

Stu had some technical problem on DR and left the stage few seconds.

The encore comes to soon.

It is one of those shows you want to go forever!

Bobby is happy as he steps up front for a little gesture of his twisted hands.

We are here, Bobby dear! On the top of the world!

Sweet kiss to you too!

Good night !

Ben and I are exhausted. Literally empty. We walk the path to the tent in a trance.

If only, if only , all the shows were so uplifted!

But no. It happens, once upon a time only!

XXIII
Baden Baden 23th of April.

At the camp site in Nuremberg I had the bad idea of washing my clothes.

As it starts raining I have to pack the wet clothes.

Benjamin drives to Bull , to another camp site.

The rain doesn't stop until we reach Baden Baden.

I will finally dry my clothes in the dryer.

I was fearing this one concert since the beginning. I almost canceled it. But I'm happy to be with Ben and even if I don’t get inside, it is fine, I will enjoy myself anyway.

The venue is one of those Opera theater, with limited capacity and high prized tickets. The experience of Spain has still a bitter taste.

We check the Beat the street buses in the afternoon.

There is a black curtain around Bobby's bus. No way to see even a hoodie!

Oh well!

We walk inside Baden Baden. Bump into Bobcats, here and there.

Ben has a ticket, he bought in advance.

I still need one.

Hard! Extra tickets are sold for face value.

One man proposes one for 170€. Way too much.

Do you believe in miracle?

One guy approaches me. He's got a ticket in his hand but also a stack of 50€ bills. He hands me a bill. Stupidly I say "it's a ticket I need". He says "I have no ticket but how can I help you?" And hands the bill again. This time my brain is functioning and I believe that yes, that could be useful to buy a ticket.  I put the bill in my pocket. Few minutes later the previous man comes around.  I ask if he sold his ticket. "No" he says. I say "I can offer you 50" ."OK" he says.

Cool!

We walk in and I find myself in a lodge, on the left of the stage.

Splendid Theater, beautiful Samaritan who happens to know the songs on the setlist!?

I have a "snobbish" time, playing the Madonna. No loud clapping, no singing, no wild movement.

The show is exactly the same but looks so much sophisticated.

The public is quiet and little sound is heard from the audience.

Weird!

Why Baden Baden?

Bobby needed a Spa?

I join Ben and we ride to the camping next to a lake.

Good night Bobby!

XXIV

Last leg of the Tour.

3 Italian shows.

Genoa 25th of April.

To reach Genoa I have a full day and night and I will use it.

Benjamin drives me to Strasbourg where I wait all day for a night Flixbus to Zurich. Dropped in the middle of the night , few folks are waiting in the cold for a late Flixbus to Genoa. I am one!

Finally warm inside I fall asleep until 9 a.m.

It takes me half hour, a coffee and cookies to figure out where I am. Disorientation is common thing on the road.

I walk but my suitcase is a burden so I decide for a tourist "shit" : a 'hop on and hop off'. It kills some time and ...15euros.

I crazily starts walking towards the venue. Google Map says 20 minutes.

Google Map is a layer. It takes me one hour and a half!

My Disorientation skill should be known in my profile!

I wait for Stefano, another Good Good Samaritan,  to put my suitcase in his car.

The venue is an Arena in a crowded commercial area. I don't understand how people can eat and drink so much!

Stefano arrives with Lucio and I am lifted of a burden.

Ben is back home and I feel so lonely, like a fool, with my sign, "begging" for a ticket again. I give up after 2 hours. Too much pressure, too much fatigue. I feel like a monkey.

Suddenly my brain function. I have with me tickets from previous shows.

For the last shows I remember they didn't scan but tired up the paper ticket.

I take my chance and walk in with the ticket from....Nuremberg, almost brand new.

The usher reads it (in German) but says OK, tears it up and IN I am.

Where? Who cares?

I stand for half part of the show when a security guy asks me to seat down.

I don't enjoy myself as before but I am glad to be in.

An average show for me but I am sure spectacular for some!

I walk out to join Stefano and Lucio for a ride to Bergamo.

Next is Lido de Jesolo.

I am sure Bobby and the Band are riding there tonight.

Nigh, night Bobby!

XXV

Lido de Jesolo. 26th of a April.

It is a sort of Island across the Laguna of Venice.

I didn't check it on Internet and in my head it is a deserted place with nothing but a venue for Bobby Dylan to play.

What a fool!

Stefano drives and yes at times we see only farms and agriculture.

Bob will play for the cows and sheep!

Simon,  another Good Good Samaritan,  helped me to book a room in a....Hotel! Whoa! Yuppie I am. It was only 25 euros, so only semi - yuppie!

We arrive in fact in a beach resort, full of "anti UV creamed" folks in shorts and sandals. The venue is next to the Aquarium.

I bump into my other Good Good Samaritan,  Bjorne.

He is here with his father and just bought 2 new tickets.

He offers his extra ticket, plus one in Verona, he will not be using.

Whoa! I am ashamed to take so much. But he doesn't will to sell them.

I will be forever thankful and indebted to so many Fans!

I can relax now though. 2 more shows with no trouble in mind.

The line forms and I walk in.

It is a weird configuration arena : small space on the floor but all seats climbing high on the ceiling, right and left. I am on the 4th row , piano side.

As strange as it is Bob will be blocked from my view when he is center stage. I can see him only at the piano.

The show is fine but I am stuck in my seat and I don't like it. I just focus on Bobby's face. He looks pale as a ghost and his eyes seem blind.

After the show, Stefano drives me to my hotel.

As I forgot to check in, the Lady was sleeping. After a moment of confusion I find a private Hotel bed all clean and warm in a room just for myself.

I will meet with Simon tomorrow morning for a bus and train trip to Verona.

I am sure Bobby is almost there already.

Good night Bobby!

And the final of great expectation.....

XXVI

Verona 27th of April.

Why great expectation?

Because Bob Dylan started to play in Italy the first time in Verona 1984.

This is the last show of the Tour.

Many Bobcats will gather from all around Europe but also few from the States. Want some names?

I know all of them by "face". Some are truly Friends, some acquaintances, some....

The venue is exceptional;  an antique Roman Arena, circular, open air, made of stones.

The old city is marvelous but packed with tourists.

We arrive on time with Simon from Lido de Jesolo.

On time to see Bob in his hoodie for the first time. He seems relaxed.

Little Pierre would like an autograph but...

I walk and walk and stop walking. It is hot and dry.

We walk in.

It is huge. I talk to some Friends and take my final seat; 10th row on the right side.

It is a great show but nothing exceptional for a final!

A final?

Goodbye or Farewell.