PART
TWENTY FOURBob
Dylan USA fall Tour 2017.
I
missed the entire last Tour as it would have been difficult for me to
afford it.
But
I didn't give up on Bob Dylan.
I
just spend three months volunteering in the Negev. Farming 10 hours a
day (except Shabbat).
Physical
work helps to forget the moral pain ; no time to think.
Back
to my QB I catch on reading and sleeping.
Then
2 BD show dates are announced ; California and Las Vegas.
So,
if there is a Tour that will be again in the States, hopefully and
logically South.
But
should we count on Mr. Dylan to be logic?????
The
tour dates are late to be announced but it will be up north and east
again!
I
check the possibility of a Greyhound bus tour and yes, it is an
option.
I
start dreaming and envision a Couchsurfing expedition.
One
by one I request some nights for the different cities on the way.
Positive responses arrived rapidly.
The
plan starts to take form ; traveling Greyhound and Couchsurfing.
I
have to book a flight rapidly to have a cheap one. I have some
hesitation about the return ticket but I can't wait too long , so, I
booked a return for the 19th of November, after the Boston show.
As
Bobby is a funny little man, he will add more shows including 5 at
the Beacon.
I
will have , maybe, to change my plan. We'll see!
I
spend a lot of time communicating with the couchsurfing Hosts.
I
have to make sure of all the details ; where is the Greyhound station
and where is the venue relating to the address. I can't spend too
much money on UBER or Taxi drives. I'd better walk or get the public
transportation.
The
comfort of the place is not a priority. Safety is more important that
comfort.
The
J day arrives.
I
October 11th 2017.
I
pack a really light suitcase, to avoid checking in any airport and to
be able to carry it by hand(rolling).
I
stop in Paris to visit my son and grand son.
I
booked a cheap return flight Paris-New York and a domestic flight on
Delta New York to Las Vegas.
In
between those last 2 flights I have 17 hours delay in New York.
Fortunately
a CS(couchsurfing) host accepted to help me with a night in Brooklyn.
II
The
adventure starts on the 11th
of October.
I
stop over in Paris to say hello to my Grandson who turned 1 year old.
Sweet
Baby boy.
III
On
the 12th of
October.
I
proceed to Charles De Gaulle for a flight to JFK. It's a low coast,
so, to my disappointment, absolutely no food or drink is
complementary.
7
hours with an empty stomach.
Well!
I will survive.
At
JFK the custom service is efficient and fast. They ask me no
question.
With
all the stamps on my passport they figure out I'm a tourist traveler.
My
final destination is Las Vegas on the 13th. For economic reason I've
chosen a domestic flight with Delta. I have 17 hours of stop over.
By
chance my Couchsurfing request have been answered positively and I
have a place to stay in Brooklyn.
I
struggle at the airport to find the right and cheapest way to reach
my destination. By chance the worker man at the train station is from
Senegal and speak perfectly French. He will help me a lot.
Train
A to Franklin and then bus B49.
Arthur,
my CS host, is home. A young man from a Chinese Artist family.
Traveler, adventurer and video reporter, just back from Europe. We
have a long chat and a bowl of stew before going to bed. I have my
own private room.
IV
13th of October.
I
take the B49 and the A train back to JFK.
The flight is on time
and we have complementary drinks and cookies.
V
Las
Vegas October 13th
Debarking
at the Mc Carren Airport, we know, right away, we are in Vegas; slot
machines everywhere.
I
struggle to find the bus going downtown. I should be taking the 108
or 109 to Flamingo road then walk 2 blocks down to my AirBandB
destination.
A
kind gentleman gives me a transport ticket. Whoa! It's a good hymen.
Julia
is home and rescue me in the lobby of the apartments building. As
usual I forgot to get all the instructions!
From
my window I see the Metropolitan Hotel where Bob Dylan and The Band
will be playing next day, on the 14th.
I
check Bobby's setlist before falling asleep.
He
had been playing in Cali.
Pretty
much the same, exception of 2 songs.
VI
Las Vegas October 14th.
An
early morning rise due to the jet-lag.
I
go get some coffee and bagels.
I
walk farther down to check the Metropolitan Hotel and Chelsea casino
and Theater.
It
is fancy and not to my test. I don't gamble and I don't like the
noise.
I
go to T.Mobile for the purchase of an American SIM card to be able to
phone in the USA. For 50 dollars I have a month provision of calls
and texts.
I
relax before moving back to the Cosmopolitan.
The
crowd is now out in the streets and inside the casinos.
I
have been in casinos in different cities and I can't understand the
point of sitting all day and putting coins in a machine, expecting
the machine to turn you in some kind of Bill Gates millionaire. I am
just wondering what those people would do with all that money?
The
Mandalay shooter was a rich white American. So, what money can't
bring is a peace of mind.
I
disconnect with the noise and lighting and focus on the Dylan crowd
hopping to the third floor. I know security is tough and of course
this is not a place for "beggar". After 45 minutes of
asking discreetly for an Extra ticket a nice lady comes to me and is
willing to sell her extra ticket for a fair amount. But though I am
tempted I also know this is the beginning of my Tour and money is
sparse. Finally Nancy recognizes me as one of the writers for Bill
Pagel and gives me the ticket. Thank you so Much. I am
waiting to read your comments on the show. The Dylan crowd is of 'old
days'; retired people in their 50's,60's,70's. Few BD T-shirts. Even
one of Tom Petty. May he rest in Peace! And no, I don’t
wish Bob to send him an homage on stage. Bobby lost many companions
along the road. He HAS to move on. It is a small theater. Not extra
fancy but comfy. I spot Chris(the light tech) and say hello. I
crisscross with Jason (the sound tech) and say hello. Move front to
check hand with Barron. Check hand with Big Bob passing by. They feel
like old friends to me. My seat is on the floor, middle
row, all the way on the right. I see the keys of the
piano. 8 p.m. Lights off. Stu strums a new arrangement.
George is giving the signal and the other members of the Band take
place followed by Bobby. I am up before anyone else. I haven't seen
my Hero for so long! Lights on(on stage). Bobby is all in black,
except the white straps on his pants. He is wearing a light 3/4
leather jacket. His hear style is long curly and dyed black. No hat
at any moment.
1.”Things
Have Changed”. New arrangement. More drums from George ,
the little drummer boy. I focus on
George
and realize he is wearing a hat and not the beret. Nice. I like it.
More staccato in the lyrics.
2.”It
Ain't Me, Babe”. And why Bob decided for this one among
so many? He might not be talking to a Girl but to the
Fans. Leave me alone. I'm not your Prophet or your Guru.
3.”Highway
61 Revisited”. A good solid Rock. Unchanged.
4.”Why
Try To Change Me Now”. Parallel to "It ain't me Babe".
Take it or leave it.
5.”Summer
Days”. Whoa! Donnie on violin is fantastic. Country
/bluegrass style. I feel like stepping on my feet and dancing the
Irish dance. I'm out of voice(can't even sing)! One of the highlights
of the night.
6.”Melancholy
Mood”. My favorite of the cronies. Sweet! Beautiful
intro by the Band. Bob voice is fitting this one better than any
others.
7.”Tryin'
To Get To Heaven”. New for me. Melancholic!
8.”Honest
With Me”. Also new for me. I'll have to listen to it
more carefully to give a note.
9.”Where
Is The One”. The worst of all for the voice. He can't
reach the high notes ,
exposing
his default. He is Not a singer. But an interpreter of Poetry. Should
pick up another one? I have to check the lyrics for it might be where
the force is.
10.”Pay
In Blood”. Unchanged, unchallenged.
11.”September
Of My Years”. I don't know this one. Will check on it
soon.
12.”Tangled
Up In Blue”. He changed the melody and crashed it all. Too slow.
With
no power. The public doesn't even react to the one which used to be
so prized.
13.”Early
Roman Kings”. Less George, more Charlie. Less drums, more guitar.
Great Charlie!
14.”Soon
After Midnight”. My sweet one. And I don't want nobody but you!
15.”Desolation
Row”. Finally a reaction from the public. Some even stand up. A
moment of pure joy! One of the highlights.
16.”Thunder
On The Mountain”. That I can hardly recognized. Also a pure Rock
and Roll that would have made the crowd dance and shout in other
times , in other days. Hardly few balancing of the head, here and
there. Come on People, Rock and Roll will never die!
17.”Autumn
Leaves”. I could do with another one.
18.”Long
And Wasted Years”. Yep! The other loud and
angry one. Unchanged. I will pay attention to the lyrics though, he
may change few lines. (encore)
19.”Blowin'
In The Wind”. I could do with another one or another arrangement.
Can't get used to it.
20.”Ballad
Of A Thin Man”. No surprise. A change from 'Along
the watchtower' or LARS he
had
been doing so often. I used to like it better center stage.
I
spot Mr. R talking with Miss.M. I am happy to see him but will not
interfere.
I
bump into another Fan that I know, Patrick from Pittsburgh and he
gives me his phone number.
I
move out and walk back to my AirBandB room.
I
have a good night sleep.
I
am supposed to check out before 3 p.m. But my bus to Salt Lake City
is scheduled for 10 p.m.
I
call Patrick and we go to a bar for a brunch and a football game on
T.V.
Then
he drives me to the greyhound station at 5 p.m.
I
still have 5 hours to wait but it is alright.
Oh
well! On the road anything can happen!
The
station is packed with folks going to L.A. and few to Salt Lake City.
As
the night goes on , Greyhound staff keeps on announcing delays. By 4
a.m.
5 buses have been delayed!! Apparently a lack of ... drivers! They
offer
pizza and soda to a quiet and sleepy crowd of 100 and so. I take it
easy
as there is no show tonight on the 16th. At 10 am on the 16th a bus
to
Salt Lake City is boarding restless passengers. I sleep on most of
the
8
hours ride!
VII
17th of October Salt Lake City
Mark
(My CS Host) had left the key of his condo under the mat and gave me
instructions on how to reach my Couchsurfing destination.
A
condo/apartment/house all for myself!
I
sleep well and spend the next morning discovering the area :
the creek path, the Mormons Temple, the Family library (to find your
ancestors. I didn't find them!! )....
I
walk 20 minutes straight South to find the Eccles Theater. Found it.
5
p.m.
The
black buses are parked already. Bobby's bus engine running.
Soundcheck
time.
Nothing
much is happening so I walk back to my condo to recharge my cell
phone battery and get ready. I crisscross with Charlie Sexton taking
a walk around.
I
say "hi Charlie, nice to see you again!" . He answers with
a smile.
Time
to walk down and there is a crowd by the entrance of the Eccles.
It
takes me 10 minutes to chat with Steven who will hands me his extra
ticket:8th row, floor, on the left of the stage.
Mavis
Staples is opening tonight at 7.30p.m.
Great
Mavis. The same show as few years ago!
“Marching”
“I
ain't turning around”
“I'll
take you there”...
All
songs from the early 60's.
She's
warming up the beautiful three balconies theater. The ceiling is
brighten with stars!
No
one in front of me but many behind!
(The
2 seats in front of me will be empty the entire show!)
45
minutes of pure SOUL! Don't you dare miss it!
20
minutes of break to remove the Mavis drums and roll the Bobby's
piano.
Bob
is dressed the same??!! Where is Suzy?
Start
the same.
1.”Things
Have Changed”
George
is drumming good!
2”.It
Ain't Me, Babe”
3.”Highway
61 Revisited”
4.”Why
Try To Change Me Now”
5.”Summer
Days”
My
favorite.
6.”Melancholy
Mood”
second
favorite.
7.”Tryin'
To Get To Heaven”
8.”This
Nearly Was Mine”
new
tonight.
Don't
know this one.
9.”Honest
With Me”
10.”September
Of My Years”
11.”Pay
In Blood”
Great
tonight.
12.”Tangled
Up In Blue”
I
still can't get the new melody. Sorry!
13.”Early
Roman Kings”
14.”Soon
After Midnight”
15.”Desolation
Row”
The
public favorite!
16.”Thunder
On The Mountain”
17.”Autumn
Leaves”
18.”Long
And Wasted Years”
(encore)
19.”Blowin'
In The Wind”
20.”Ballad
Of A Thin Man”
I
pay attention to Stu, right in front of me.
Stu
is playing a red electric guitar most of the time. Except for 'Summer
days', 'Pay in blood', 'Blowin' in the wind'.
Donnie
is on steal guitar except on violin for 'Summer days ', 'Blowing in
the wind'. Mandolin on 2 songs.
Tony
on electric bass, except the Croony songs and 'Early Roman kings' and
'Blowing in the wind' he will be on standing bass.
Bob
will never blow his harp.
Already
the end.
I
stand close to the stage. See Bobby 'almost' smiling!
I
find a ticket stub for my friend Stefano and rapidly move out.
Walk
back to my condo with 'Soon after midnight ' in my head.
And
sleep with a 'Satisfied mind'.
Thank
you Steven.
Thank
you the Band.
Thank
you all you good people.
Good
night Bobby dear!
See
you tomorrow, nice time, same place!
VIII
October 18th Salt Lake City
I
wake up early ; 7 a.m., walk to the nearest 7Eleven for a cup o
coffee and food.
At
9 a.m. Mark (my Couchsurfing host) knocks at the door.
We
take a walk in the neighborhood.
I
rest a while and then walk down to the Eccles Theater in early
afternoon.
Just
on time to see the B.D. bus pulling in the parking lot.
Time
for the Soundcheck.
I
walk the downtown area for one hour and retrieve my path to the
Eccles.
Mavis
is stepping out of her bus. A gentle Fan asks her for an autograph. I
take a chance to tell her how great inspiration she is and shake hand
with her.
Nothing
much is happening, except Barron doing some business.
The
catering people bring food inside.
Time
for the B.D. folks to eat.
Bon
Appetit!
I
walk up the hill to rest and get ready.
Walk
down the hill around 7 p.m.
The
crowd is slowly gathering inside the lobby of the Eccles.
Nice
weather, nice and friendly folks.
Even
the security smiles at my sign ;
'If
you have an extra ticket you do not need. I will be happy to use it.
Thank you'.
There
is no scalpers here. Another woman (who is not F.) is also looking
for a friendly ticket. She will get one.
A
man approaches me, says he has an extra ticket he would like to sell.
I say 'Alright. Try to sell but if you can't, please, think about
me'.
He
will give it to me.
I
am in, on the second balcony (there is a third one above).
Mavis
is on time.
Same
show as yesterday, same jokes.
Warming
the Casa!!!!
Stu
strumming. George beating.
Bob
is in white/cream ¾ long jacket. Same pants; black with white
stripes. No hat. Black hair which looks red in the spot lights. But I
swear, his hair ain't red!
I
pay attention to every single line of the songs.
He
didn't change the lyrics of 'Tangled up in blue' , just the melody.
I
LOVE ' Summer days' ,, a sort of bluegrass jig that makes me feel
like standing up and dancing. But I am stuck and glued on my chair!
It
reminds me of the one I loved so much ; 'Beyond here lies nothing'
'Once
upon a time' is a great choice. It should be on the setlist.
'Pay
in blood' is torching up to the night.
'Early
Roman Kings' is moving the cassa.
'Soon
after midnight' comes as a refreshing sweet, romantic tune.
'Desolation
row' is the highlight. The public is standing up.
'Thunder
on the mountain' is adding a lightning to the hot atmosphere... the
tempest before the calm and relaxing fall of the 'Autumn leaves'.
'Long
and wasted years' is the closing.
It
could have been 'Love sick'.
By
now Bobby must be tired. He trots to the backstage.
I
am up for 5 minutes, clapping and shouting 'bravo Bobby!'
The
performance was excellent.
I
believe at some point he must have been confused with the order of
the songs as Tony murmured something in his ear.
I
also believe 'Once upon a time' was not on the setlist as Bob moved
to each one of the musician (except Stu) to deliver few words before
the song.
The
encore is without surprise. By now the public is up.
Good
public who could appreciate the Dylan's songs as well as the covers.
I
didn't see anyone leaving the venue before the encore.
For
me, and because I was on the balcony where the sound was perfect,
this is the best show of the 3 I attended.
I
move out with the crowd, bump into Al Santos who happily shakes hand
with me, bump into Ian who gives me a big hug and a goodbye(this is
his last show of that tour).
I
walk back home singing … “but I miss you must of all, my Darling,
when autumn leaves start to faaaaaaallllllll.....”
Good
night Bobby, sweet dreams,!
See
you soon.
IX
October 19th and 20th.
I
decided to stay in Salt Lake City 2 more days as I have a condo all
for myself.
I
wake up early as usual on the 19th.
I
have a whole day off.
I
don't do much except reading and preparing my trip until Chicago :
booking bus tickets and a Youth Hostel in Chicago as I didn’t find
any CS host. Going to the library to print the GREYHOUND tickets. I
book a ride to Denver on the 20th in the evening. That will be a
night ride and I hope all will be alright with the buses.
Thursday
morning I take a walk with Mark in a park. I spend some time writing
my blog and then go visit the Rock Lady next door. She is Rosemary
and she collects rocks in order to make jewelery.
We
share a glass of red wine from Italy. A friend of her is passing by
and he invites me for dinner at the Green Pig. We have a pleasant
evening watching another one of those American football games on T.V.
I
am thankful as this is my first decent meal since I am in the States.
In
the late afternoon, on the 20th,
Mark takes me to a coffee shop to meet with a friend and then he
drives me to the Greyhound station.
X
October 21th Denver
The
bus is right on time and I sleep most the way to Denver.
Jeff (a
not Bobcat) is supposed to meet me at 7 a.m. for a breakfast but he
texts me that he can't make it . Okay. I , then, try to figure out
how to reach my CS host in Westminster, a suburb of
Denver.
A
super nice guy guides me all the way to the train.
I
missed the 8.09 a.m. train and wait for the 9.09 a.m. drinking a
strong cup of Americano.
Jacob
(my CS host) will pick me up at the train stop in Westminster and
shows me my room in his brand new house.
Later
he and his girlfriend will drive me to Boulder for a walk on Pearl
street then to the tea factory called CELESTIAL.
They
make more than 100 types of tea and we do a tour of the fabrication
plant.
Time
to go back home.
I
treat myself with 2 slices of pizza at the nearest supermarket.
Jacob
gives me a ride to the venue.
By
7 p.m. I am out looking for my ticket.
4
young follows offer me a ticket. I follow them and find myself 10th
row center on the aisle. Cool!
Mavis
is fantastic and changed a bit her setlist.
She
sure will take you there...wherever is there!
Stu
is on and the Band takes position.
Bob
is dressed in black : shining black jacket, black shirt, black pants
with the white straps. His hair is disheveled.
The
venue is not a fancy one, neither the public.
First
song and the public in front is all up.
Many
folks will never seat down.
Randy
in front of me will be up all the show blocking my view of Bob at the
piano. He is a Bobcat of long time so .... I tolerate with all my
good spirit.
Barron
passes by and smiles with good humor.
Some
smoke can be seen here and there and the smell is familiar.
Though
security is strict for the cell phone (there was a metal
detector at the entrance ) tolerance is 100 % for weed! Welcome
Colorado!
Bobby
must be intoxicated for he is rocking and rolling like never before.
Song
after song the public is getting wild, so do I.
Lucky
I had 2 slices of pizza for lunch, I've got some energy.
"It
ain't me Babe". I hear voices behind me "no, no, no it
ain't me Baaaabe'
"Once
upon a time». Yes! He heard me and kept that song on the setlist.
Thank you my Dear.
"Tangled
up in blue" is recognized by an attentive public.
"Desolation
row' and the boys next to me are singing along.
On
and on, rows after rows the Fans are standing up, dancing and singing
along.
Great!
I am not the only crazy freak tonight.
The
crowd is all up for 'Ballad of a thin man' and I make a move to reach
the rail in the dark when....
Bob
starts again on the piano.
Whoa!
A
third encore and this is a Tom Petty song "Learning to fly".
This
is Tom Petty’s birthday, the previous day or the day following.
Petty
died of apparently a heart attack at only 66, on the 2sd of October.
He
had been a companion of Dylan for few years, starting with the “Farm
Aid” concert in 1985,
The
“True confession Tour” in 1986 around the world,
The
collaboration on the group “The Traveling Wilburys”.
Bob
remembered his companion and friend!
EXCELLENT
SHOW.
Excellent
public.
Thank
you Colorado people!
I
move rapidly out.
They
are Fans I spotted in front of me I don't want to deal with.
In
this Tour I decided to be a freewheeling.
I
manage perfectly with Buses , couchsurfing hosts and Youth Hostels or
AirB and B.
My
idea of solidarity is far from the Bob Dylan Fan club.
We
see life on the road with a different point of view.
My
budget is tight but I always lived this way.
It
doesn't disturb me as long as I am not confronted with unnecessary
luxury around me.
The
Couchsurfers are my family for they get the concept of traveling
light and cheap and meeting the regular citizens in each country.
I
am easy going and flexible in many ways.
I
am a Bob Dylan Fan and so are the 5 or 8 000 people going to the show
every night.
I
am just happy to be able to see so many shows.
I
pay the price for nothing is never 'free'.
I
struggle to find a way back to the house.
The
regular taxis are asking for 40$.
I
can't use UBER cause my tablet is not connected.
After
20 minutes I bump into another guy looking for a cab.
He
found a meter taxi and we agree to share the ride, except he is going
the other direction than me and I hand up with a 35$ fare.
Oh
well! It's life on the road and since I didn't pay for my concert
ticket. I guess it is alright.
I
sleep more or less in peace for I need to be up at 5 a.m. and try
UBER for the first time.
It
works well, but I am at the Greyhound station 2 hours early!
A
day bus ride for 8 hours in a boring path ; corn, corn and corn.
I
relax and keep track with my CS hosts.
Kristen
will pick me up at the station at 8.30 p.m.We chat.
We
watch " Friends " on TV. And I go to my private
room.
XI
23rd of October Omaha.
I
relax and update my blog.
In
the early afternoon Kristen takes me downtown to the 'candy store'
then I am on my own.
I
walk the passageway before heading to the Centurylink center.
A
sign outdoor informs the public that no big bag will be allowed.
I
start panicking as my bag is over sized.
The
security inside is of no help.
I
go to Starbucks to connect and the Lady there tells me the Marriott
hotel next door might hold my bag. They say they will. Cool!
I
bump into a Fan I met before at different concerts. He's a
good-hearten biker. He gives me money for the BD postcard I hand him.
Thank you my friend.
I
start looking for a ticket but the scalpers are not helping. Others
are looking for cheap tickets.
By
8 p.m. I am still outside. Though I feel sorry I am not desperate. I
will wait until the end of the show, anyway.
A
nice Lady comes to me and tells me that one of a friend is coming
with 7 tickets. I believe I heard wrong but I keep my eyes open.
A
young fellow approaches and extracts 7 tickets from his coat. All the
poor fans gather around him. Each one will get a complimentary
ticket.
I
rush inside and the security which had been so tight doesn’t even
stop me.
I
take my seat as Mavis is taking the public...there.
15
minutes break and Stu is on at 8.30p.m.
So
early!
The
venue is not full on the sides. 60% of the capacity.
The
setlist is the same as Las Vegas with that Sinatra song that Bob can
not so successfully perform. But that is his choice.
The
public is the opposite as Denver. Except 2 or 3 Fans in
the first row, nothing is moving.
Not
even on "Thunder on the mountain " which is the
highlight. I see George drumming hard.
“People
don't live or die, people just float”.
The
rows next to me are emptying long time before the encore.
I
can do my Karaoke performance.
Bobby
is equal to himself.
It
is a great show and a miracle for me.
I
say Hi to Jason and joke about Bob wearing the same pants night after
night!
I
retrieve my bag at the Marriott and call Kristen who will kindly pick
me up.
The
streets are empty.
Omaha
will leave me with the impression of emptiness.
Good
night Bobby! Safe trip to Ames!
XII
24th of October Ames.
I
arrive in Ames station on time with Jefferson bus.
I
am the only one stepping out.
Curtis,
my CS host, will take 1 hour off from work to pick me up.
The
house is huge. I have the whole basement for myself.
I
unpack and take a walk to downtown for breakfast.
Well!
Not so much of downtown.
In
half an hour I already seen all.
Ames
is a University "village".
I
buy myself a pumpkin bread.
I
take a nap before heading to the Stephens Auditorium, by
the campus, 25 minutes walking distance.
The
wind is blasting cold.
The
buses are parked on the street. Nothing is happening.
Sue
just arrives and also the biker Fan I met in Omaha.
I
put my sign out early for the capacity of the auditorium is only
2700.
A
Lady comes to me and says she has a ticket.
"
how much?" I say. At this time most of the extra tickets are
sold face value.
"How
much are you willing to pay?" She says.
I
quickly realize I have to offer a price.
"20?"
"Okay!".
Whoa!
The ticket value is 125$. Excellent seat.
We
go in as the weather is getting worst and worst.
I
chat for a long time with Sue.
People
are pleasant.
Security
is tight but not aggressive.
A
usher tells me security is tight at the request of the performer.(
???)
Sue
is not willing to hear Mavis.
I
still find some pleasure in her show, though I know her jokes by
heart!
The
venue is effectively small. The balconies are suspended in the air.
Though
it is on a campus the audience is ..."old", reserved and
polite.
The
2 ladies at my sides have never seen Bob Dylan show before (??).
The
show is as usual with "Once upon a time" for the 9th song.
This
is a great show but I am squeezed between 2 ladies who obviously
don't recognize most of the songs.
Too
much polite!
I
move rapidly out and walk the 25 minutes back home.
Curtis
is waiting for me and offers me a bowl of veggies and barley soup.
More
than welcomed.
I
sleep deep until 5.15 a.m. when I call UBER for a ride to the bus
station.
Good
night Bobby!
XIII
25th October St Paul.
I
get up 5.15 a.m. Call UBER on my tablet. Pack everything. Say goodbye
to the dog (the only one up in the house). Close the door. Wait for
the bus to St Paul.
I
contacted my CS host, Niqui, but I had no answer. I then contact
another CS host. Better be safe!
At
the last moment Niqui said the patio door will be unlocked for me to
leave my suitcase there, at her home.
The
bus arrives on time at the union depot, a splendid building.
I
walk all the way to Arlington street. It takes me more than 2 hours
as passer-byes keep on misguiding me.
I
leave my luggage and walk back to downtown, towards the Excel Energy
Center.
I
rest my poor feet and get some energy drink.
By
6 p.m. I am by the venue. Funny youngsters are holding a huge
portrait of Bobby. They say if I go to a bar, down the street, put my
name on a piece of paper , I may win a B.D. show ticket for tonight.
Whoa!
I
never knew if I won!
2
ladies are giving away cereal bars. They happily drop many in my bag.
They
are sugar free, protein free, G.M.O. free ... for a while I thought
they were food free!
But
though they taste like s***.....this is filling up my stomach.
I
start my request for a ticket at the main door by 6.15 p.m.
Scalpers
are aggressive and other poor fellows search for cheap
tickets as well.
Fans
arrive by bunch of 20/25. They are not friendly. I would
say even harsh and rude. Wave after wave folks pass me with no word
or consideration. I feel 'invisible'.
Sue
spends some time chatting with me and this is a great relief.
I
was almost giving up!
8.15
p.m. Absolutely no luck. I believe 8000 people passed by me.
The
speakers are still shouting the regulations : strict search of body
and bag, no recording material, no photo...no smoking of regular
cigarettes or e-cigarettes....smoking permitted out only at gate3.
What??
Oh my! Memories pop up in my mind. The time when Bob had an
intermission and I could sneak in by the smoking area.
I
rapidly move to gate3. Fans are smoking out for Mavis show
is over.
I
join the smokers, though I never smoked a cigarette in my life!
By
chance I have with me my ticket from Ames. They all look the same
those Ticketmaster ticket.
I
pass the security metal detector, present from far my
ticket in my hand, the Lady asks if I have the stamp on my wrist. She
gives me the hint. I pretend lifting my sleeve and say" yes. I
have the stamp".
I
am IN.
Finding
a spot will be no problem here.
I
stay on the balcony and try to move as close as possible to the stage
as Stu strums his tune.
I
sneak inside the first door on the left on the stage, stand up by the
rail(a rail is going all around the balcony, on the top of
the sport arena).
Bob
is finishing "Things have changed" , gets into "It
ain't me Babe" when a stupid usher asks me where I am seated.
She wants to see my ticket, as if being where I am could disturb
anyone??!!
I
have to leave to avoid any trouble, I can't take the risk
of being thrown out!
I
try the second door, then the third door...stupid ushers!
The
4th one is less strict. I sneak behind a group of intoxicated young
follows.
I
will stand up on my poor bloated feet the entire show.
I
relax just before "Summer days": take my coat off, put my
bag down and dance the Irish dance.
The
young guy next to me is a Fan. We have a good time.
I
drum on the rail with my fingers, following Little Georgie's moves.
I
appreciate plainly each one of the song, thinking I could be out in
the cold by now. I must have a good Star to guide me, talking to my
brain!
The
Arena is packed. I wondering how many know what Bob is playing.
Not
the intoxicated youngsters who applaud at the wrong timing, long time
before Bob ends "Why try to change me now? " or "Melancholy
mood ".
"Highway
61" has a good reception as well as "Thunder on the
mountain ".
"Autumn
leaves" is getting to a smooth end and I am ready for "Long
and wasted years ". But Bob stays at the piano and I recognize
the first notes of " Ballad of a thin man ".
Whoa!
So did Bob decide to finish early and go spend some time with his
family on his farm?
Nope.
He comes back for "Blowing in the wind ".
And
finalize with "That lucky old sun ".
Beautiful
surprise!
I
am glad I didn't give up my search.
Thank
you so much for Su company.
I
wait for the "school of sardines" to move out. I look for
ticket stubs, for me and my good friend Stefano.
I
run into Bill Pagel who says he had a ticket for me, 8th row down the
floor.
Oh
well! S***!
He
said he texted me but I never opened my telephone just to call HIM
TWICE with no answer!!
Things
happen in season, for a reason. ... said to me Mr R. once upon a
time!
Time
now to panic again for I have no idea if the door of the CS host home
will be open.
I
call with no answer.
I
walk fast.
By
11.45 p.m. I am at the door and see some lights.
Jamie
opens, shows me around, offers me a soda, guides me to my room.
I
crash on the bed and fall in a deep sleep.
What
a day!
Night
, night Bobby!
See
you in Chicago if my good star guides me there.
XIV
26th
of October Chicago.
The
greyhound bus leaves St Paul with one hour delay.
I
have a surprising adventure: at 4 p.m. we stop at a Mc Donald's. (I
believe greyhound bus company has a contract with that fast food
restoration!)
I
don't feel like spending money, so I start munching on a cereal bar.
A
man shows his face at the door and asks who is hungry and don't have
money for food.
First
I am suspicious but what the eke!
I
follow him to McDo. I order a menu1 and seat with Tony. We have a
pleasant chat and step again on the bus. Thanks Tony!
We
arrive in Chicago late, with more than one hour delay. It
is dark and cold and I am tired. I call UBER for a ride to my Hostel.
The
Hostel is brand new : clean and comfortable. The bed is a king or
queen size bed. A large kitchen is available. The shower is .... hot.
XV
27th of October.
I
wake up early and get a complimentary breakfast ; empanada with
coffee.
I
go to Walgreens to get soup for lunch. I am the only one making use
of the kitchen.
I
take another hot shower, take a nap.
I
decide to go to the venue early to check out. It is an inauguration
and I have no idea how it will be. I have bad memories from Paris.
The
area is .... horrible. The wind is freezing cold. Nonetheless I wait
for Bobby and the Band to arrive for the Soundcheck.
Bobby's
bus pulls in really close to the back door. I just have 3 seconds to
see him walking in. He is wearing a hoodie on top of a red cup, his
leather jacket and gloves. Cool!
I
try to stay away from the cold wind and ends up in a large building
where they prepare a chocolate marathon for next Sunday.
I
stuff myself with chocolate cookies and chocolate drinks samples.
Then
move out again by the venue. I run into Sue and we are both surprised
at the heavy security. Men armed with machine guns are patrolling .
Whoa!
They
will not allow my bag inside, so Sue accepts kindly to put it in her
hotel room. Thanks!
I
am now looking for a ticket and doing that I start a 20 minutes chat
with a heavy loaded security guy who wants to visit ... Normandy!
Oh
well! It is always good to be friend with security, though I do
believe he voted Trump.
But
somehow he was sweeter and kinder to me than some Bob Dylan Fans and
“Dead heads”(so called Hippies!).
I
spot a man, all by himself, who seams to wait for something. I move
to him and say I need a ticket for the show.
"I
have one " he says and pulls a ticket outside his pocket.
That
easy??
We
walk in as it is freezing out.
We
take our seats, behind the piano. Cool!
We
chat until Mavis is on.
She
is from Chicago, she will mention it few times.
15
minutes and Bob is on.
The
venue is filling up. There is nothing special about any inauguration.
It is just a sport arena, like any sport arena.
Few
Fans in the front are exited. Other than that it is a "normal"
show.
He
is wearing the outfit of Las Vegas : black jacket, black pants with
white straps, black shirt.
Excellent
on "Pay in blood".
Bobby
must have a cold as I see him ... blowing his nose.
On
"Ballad of a thin man " he has a weird attitude :he is
checking constantly his left hand as if it is injured! I don't see
any blood!
(Later
I will see some photos on Facebook with Bob wearing a bandage on one
of his left fingers.)
A
quick salute and it is the end.
I
search for Sue, retrieve my bag and catch the Red line metro to my
Hostel.
I
am glad I was in Chicago. I met great people who don't
seam to mind the freezing cold climate!
Good
night Bobby! See you soon!
XVI
28th of October Grand Rapids.
I
leave the Hostel in Chicago after a light breakfast, catch
the brown line metro, walk few blocks towards the Greyhound station.
I
take a bus to .... Holland, Michigan where Mike, my C.S. contact,
will host me for the night after the show in Grand Rapids ( 1hour
ride away).
He
is going to the show with a ticket.
We
have a pleasant chat and leave the house to be at the venue around 6
p.m.
It
is raining now but not too bad. As I am out trying to get a ticket
Mike proposes to buy me one on line. Because he is
insisting I say yes and promise to offer him brunch next morning.
My
seat is far away from the stage but I move down on the floor and stay
in the last row, which will be empty the entire show.
This
is a sport arena for hockey and the floor is ... ice. Extremely cold
on my feet. The seats on the side are half empty as well as many on
the floor.
Mavis
seams to be tired tonight. She doesn't speak as much as usual.
Bob
and the Band are on time. Bob with a light cream / white jacket.
The
show is the same.
I
am up and singing and dancing as there is no one behind me.
Here
and there Fans stand up for some songs : “Highway61”, “Summer
days”, “Pay in blood”, “Desolation row”, “Thunder on the
mountain”. ...but nothing too much exiting.
I
just enjoy myself.
I
am ready for "Long and wastes years" when I recognize the
intro of " Love sick". Nice for a change.
The
crowd slowly moves out.
Mike
takes me to Hi hop for a late dinner.
Next
morning he drives me around lake Michigan.
We
have a “sweety” Lunch of coffee and buns.
I
had a pleasant stay in here.
XVII
From Grand rapids to Detroit.
I
am skipping the show in Bloomington.
I
will spend few days in Detroit.
I
arrive on time and walk few blocks at night to Rich's condo, my
couchsurfing host.
He
lives on the 17th floor of a high building and from the window I can
see the sign of the FOX theater blinking in the dark.
I
have 2 days and 2 evenings to spend before the show on the 1st.
XVIII
30th of October Detroit
I
walk few blocks to the Public Library, early morning, to prepare my
second leg of the Tour, until Philadelphia.
I
contact all my couchsurfing hosts and book my Greyhound tickets.
I
cross the street to check on the Detroit Art Institute, but the doors
are closed. Walking back home I stop at the grocery store to buy food
: pasta, tomato sauce, cereals. That will do for few days.
Rich
comes from work (he is a lawyer for some Unions) and we have a
pleasant chat.
My
bed in the living room is comfy and Rich hands me the keys of the
condo.
Plus
they are some books around that I wish to read ; MalcomX biography,
A.
P. Randolph biography, Steinbeck, the painters Shiele and Bacon....a
paradise for me.
XIX
31st October Detroit.
Back
to the library for printing my tickets and finally I make it to the
D.A.I. for 9$. They have, in there, a large MURAL from Diego Rivera,
the Mexican painter and companion of Frida Kahlo. I spend 2 hours
studying the mural plus more hours inside the different sections of
one of the largest museums in the States! (They told me). And it is
true, after the M.E.T. in New York and the Art Institute in Chicago.
Though
this Museum almost disappeared due to the bankruptcy of the City of
Detroit, it has been rescued by some philanthropists to my great
relief and delight!
Back
home for supper and chat with Rich.
As
he is a defender of the Unionists, we have no difficulty talking
'Socialism' and even intruding in 'Communism' (a dirty word for a lot
of Americans, brainwashed by the Cold War and anti communist
propaganda. [Listen to Bobby Dylan!]).
XX
1st
of November.
The
day of the show.
My
friend John Paul sent me an address of a large second hand bookstore.
After
a strong cup of coffee I walk there and, of
course, I buy myself a book ; "50 Artists you should
know." 50 Painters.
Back
home I finish reading the life of Randolph, Afro - American activist
before Dr. Martin Luther King.
By
4.45 p.m.
I
walk 1 block to find the backstage entrance of the venue, to see the
Band and Bob entering the venue for the soundcheck. I say hi to Big
Bob who asks me if I am following the whole Tour. "Until Boston"
I answer. "They are shows in New York" he says. We'll see!
By
6 p.m. I walk again to the venue, this time by the public entrance.
I
promised Rich to find him a ticket as he is hosting me for a long
stay.
I
start putting my sign out. It takes 10 minutes before a miracle
happens : a man hands me, not only 1, but 2 tickets and rapidly moves
away.
I
call Rich who join me and we are seated, side by side, on the floor
section, all the way in the back.
The
deco of the Theater is of Oriental style but all fake : plasters and
plastic!
Mavis
is marvelously inspiring. Her songs mean a lot to Rich, of course,
though he is a lot younger than the "marchings for freedom".
Bob
is dressed as in Las Vegas; dark jacket.
His
mood on that Tour is : Black and White.
The
sound is perfect. The best so far.
Except
some trouble people who arrive late and drunk and loud, the show is
great.
The
highlight is "Summer days" when Bobby's voice is at his
top.
"Desolation
row " and a particularly staccato "Tangled up in blue "
make the fire in that "snobbish" theater but not so
"snobbish" public.
Bob
must have a good rest, for his voice is clear.
"Once
upon a time" is a regular now (to my delight!).
"Love
sick" is now replacing "Long and wasted years " (to my
delight, also).
If
only he could introduce "Shooting Star", I'd be in
Paradise.
Well!
What a surprising stay I had in Detroit!
It
was the time and the place for "Union sundown".
A song I recommended to Rich.
Bobby
didn't feel like me.
Good
night Bobby! Safe trip to Akron!
XXI
3rd of November Akron
I
arrive on schedule time with "Barons bus".
Took
the city bus to my destination and missed the stop.
The
driver was kind enough to drive me back ... right at the door of my
Couchsurfing host. In fact 7 youngster are living in a huge house
once the property of some executive for GOODYEAR company, the tires
factory.
Akron
was the city of the tires used for the cars built in Detroit.
The
consequences of the depression and "globalization" is not
so visible here than in Detroit.
My
first evening is entertained by a group of Acro-Yoga practicing in
the living room. Fun to watch but I will never try!
Next
day is rainy day so I decide to visit a museum ; Stan Hywet hall and
gardens. It was the property of the Seiberling family, owner of the
Goodyear factory. Immensely rich, they ordered the construction (4
years) of one of the 6 largest Mansions in the States. The "house"
includes 62 rooms! It is exquisitely decorated.
We
have a Tour and I also spend time in the garden and green house.
I
recommend the Tourist Tour for 19$. Worth it.
I
am confused in the bus schedule so... I have to walk , 1 hour, all
the way downtown.
The
E.J. Thomas hall is on a campus, not so pretty as Detroit.
Bob
steps in his bus after the soundcheck. I say hi to Stu passing by.
I
promised one of my CS hosts to find him a ticket for the show.
Luckily
2 men gave me a ticket each. I give the best seat to Oliver, who will
be seeing Bob for the first time.
I
am on the third balcony, very high above the stage.
7.30
p.m.
Mavis
looks tired. She doesn't speak as much as she used to. She sings an
old Gospel song; "Wade in the water".
She
is entertaining the public alright.
Bob
is right on time and as usual Fans didn't take their seats early
enough.
I
am disturb for the 3 first songs but then all is well. The public is
respectful even enthusiastic on "Thunder on the
mountain', "Desolation row", "Tangled up in
blue " . I hear some applause at the start of "Autumn
leaves".
The
show is great, as any other show.
Spectacular
on "Thunder on the mountain".
My
favorite still being "Summer days". I love the violin from
Donnie.
The
encore is quickly executed and the show ends at 10.15 p.m.
I
join Oliver who enjoyed himself though he doesn't know many of Dylan
songs. He recognized "Blowing in the wind ", certainly
the Bob Dylan anthem.
"Blowing
in the wind " is for Dylan what "Guernica"
is for Picasso.
Oliver
is surprised about the heavy security who asks the folks to cross the
street in order for Bob to step quietly and peacefully in his bus
before taking the road.
We
drive home chatting about why I am so hooked on Dylan!
Hard
to explain to a rational Mathematician.
Good
night Bobby! See you in Columbus.
XXII
4th of November Columbus
My
Couchsurfing hosts in Columbus, Jeff and Charlene, live
north of Columbus.
I
first meet them in a bar/cinema complex where, today, they are
watching a football game.
I
feed myself lunch with a bag of chips!
We
live the bar around 6 p.m., they drive me to their home, to meet the
3 cats. We listen to Bob Dylan Nobel prize acceptance speech. Jeff
blows up the king size air mattress and I fall asleep right away.
XXIII
5th of November.
Charlene
cooks breakfast and go to church while Jeff is taking care of the
laundry.
I
just spend time reading a book.
By
5 p.m. I catch bus number 2 towards downtown. I am a little bit
worried for I have my suitcase with me. I go straight to the security
guards at the entrance of the Palace theater and explain my problem.
They will not let me in with my luggage and they are even rude as if
I carry with me a dangerous item. I spot the Leveque Hotel, right
next to the venue and decide to take my chance. The clerk kindly
understand my demand and accept to hold my suitcase until the end of
the show. I am more than thankful for that.
Second
challenge is to get a free entrance. 2 scalpers are a bit aggressive
until I make them understand I know their game and I don't play by
it.
A
man passes by me and hands me a ticket. He didn't even ask me
anything or argue about any price.
Though
it is early, the wind and the rain start to create trouble so I step
inside.
No
metal detector, no heavy search. Just the usual
recommendations; no camera, no recording material.
The
venue is again a splendidly decorated theater. The crowd is not
"young" though Columbus is a University town, second
largest in the States.
I
seat next to my Good Samaritan who tells me he is a teacher of Maths
at the University and is wife is sick and couldn't make it to the
show.
I
ask what he expects from Bob Dylan tonight. He says the songs from
the sixties. But he will be enthusiastic all along the show, even if,
probably, he doesn't know most of the songs Bob is
interpreting in his new style.
Mavis
is in a great spirit tonight.
Taking
the public ...there.
Most
of the folks are seated when Stu starts strumming, which is good
news!
I
can enjoy plainly "Things have changed"
"It
ain't me Babe" brings a smile on my good Samaritan face.
As
well as "Highway 61" Unchanged from the original version.
The
Sinatra songs are familiar for that crowd of retired folks.
They
are accepted with enthusiasm.
"Summer
days" makes me wiggle but not too much. Seats are bouncing from
one side to the other of the row.
Bob
goes on with his usual setlist as more and more people leave their
seats. Some coming back and some not.
My
Good Samaritan picks on my mood whether or not he recognizes the
songs. He seams a bit bored on the Sinatra ones and keeps saying
"thank you. Thank you" . To whom? I don’t know.
"Thunder
on the mountain " is a must. Some super Fans, here and there,
stand and bounce their heads for few minutes, before being asked to
seat.
My
row of seats is empty as Bob and the Band reappear for "Blowing
in the wind " and the final "Ballad of a thin man ".
The
theater is empty by now and I linger around. I am in no hurry as my
Greyhound bus is leaving for Pittsburgh at 12.55 a.m.
As
I finally step out, it is pouring rain. Oh my! I have to
walk 10 minutes with my luggage which I retrieved from the Hotel.
By
chance, I spot a couple to whom I had explained all my adventures
with Bob Dylan before the show. I ask, kindly, if they
could give me a ride. They say, "no problem".
I
am at the Greyhound station by 11.00 p.m. all dry!
I
get myself some French fries, the only "decent" food at
this time of the night.
I
sleep the 3 hours and half, all the way to Pittsburgh.
Bobby
is probably taking the same road in his luxury bus!
Good
night Bobby!
XXIV
6th of
November Pittsburgh.
Larry,
my C.S. host, is waiting for me at the Greyhound bus station at 4.30
a.m.
He
drives me to his beautiful home, in the suburb of Pittsburgh and
shows me my room. I have the basement all for myself with all the
comfort of a small apartment.
We
have a quiet breakfast as his wife, Jeanne is still sleeping.
I
rest in the afternoon before taking the train to downtown Pittsburgh.
The
Theater is the Heinz Hall, one of the smallest venue of the Tour.
Right
away I don’t feel comfortable with the atmosphere ; the scalpers
are numerous and aggressive.
The
security is also nasty. They push the scalpers and me across the
street.
I
“fight” with one of the policeman who can’t believe I am just
looking for an extra ticket to GO in.
After
few hours of struggle I give up and call Larry to pick me up.
I
am a “mess”. That was a complete disaster.
Luckily
Larry and Jeanne are beautiful people and they saved me a nice
supper.
I
go to bed, crying on my pillow.
Why
so much violence, I didn’t do anything wrong!
I
start to understand the anger of some victims of injustice.
Why
some policemen are so ‘pervert’, abusing their power?
Freud
must have a good answer!
XXV
7th of
November Pittsburgh
Larry
requested me to stay one more day in order for us to have a visit of
Pittsburgh.
Though
I’ve been here before I happily says yes to the request.
In
fact Larry is so sweet and smart that I wouldn’t mind to stay
longer if it was not for Bobby.
We
drive downtown towards the Art Museum which unfortunately closed
today.
We
then decide to have a good bowl of pastas in a restaurant, take a
tour of the Cathedral of learning (part of the University)then we go
to another Museum.
Larry
and Jeanne prepare great dinner.
That
wonderful day erased the bad experience of the previous evening.
Next
morning, to my surprise, Larry takes me to the Museum(open today).
Then
drives me to the Greyhound station.
XXVI
8th,
9th,
10th,11th,
12th of November
Philadelphia.
I
decided to skip the shows in Uniondale and Richmond.
They
are out of the regular road ; too far, too much expensive.
So
Olivia, my CS Host in Philly, accepted me to stay a week at her house
in exchange for some work in the house.
I
clean the attic, I help her to paint the living room walls, we sort
and range the tools, I clean the leaves out on the lawn …
XXVII
11th of November Philadelphia
I
haven't seen Bob and his people for 5 days and I miss the fun.
Take
the bus 109 to Upper Darby.
The
Tower is just across the bus terminal.
6
p.m. some folks are queuing to get in and I don't understand the
reason. This is all seated tickets.
It
is freezing cold and I forgot the gloves Larry (my CS host)had bought
for me in Pittsburgh.
The
buses are parked on the side of the theater and I spot Barron walking
by.
I
chat with Fans, here and there but I am waiting most for my good
friend Jack Fate.
It
is nice to hug a great Soul. It warms me immediately.
I
am confident to find myself a ticket but Jack insists to buy me one
and get me outside the cold.
One
more time I can't express my gratitude. Jack and Kim will be blessed
for the time and more.
I
am all the way on the top. The theater is small (3000) so my view is
perfect, plunging on the stage.
I
have a seat on the aisle so I will be up during the entire show.
Mavis
is doing her show. 45 minutes, no more, no less.
She
is not so talkative tonight. She doesn’t mention how Bobby moves
his body!
For
me it's pretty much the way he walks that is weird, like if walking
on eggs.
It
takes now 15 minutes to change the scene.
Stu
is on at 8.30 p.m.
Bob
didn't change his pants since Las Vegas!
He
is in Black and White since the beginning of the Tour. No hat.
I
will call that Tour : the B&W Tour.
The
boys are in blue.
Where
I seat the sound is perfect. Bobby's voice is clear.
I
watch individually each one of the musicians. Though they have been
doing that performance for 15 shows now, they still look
inspired.
George,
Charlie and Donnie have their moment of "glory".
George
on "Thunder on the mountain"
Donnie
on "Summer days"
Charlie
on "Early Roman kings", "Soon after midnight" and
much more.
Tony
and Stu perfect as the rhythm duo.
I
focus on the stage and on some fans obviously as much exited as I am.
The
show is a roller coaster; up on the Dylan songs he is
performing on piano(most of the time standing up) down with the
Sinatra covers he is performing center stage.
A
good balance of Rock and Croon.
There
is no song I will reject except. .."Tangled up in blue". I
still believe this is not the best version.
well!
One of my "individualist" karaoke tonight as no one next to
me is moving his ass on his chair!
Again,
folks leave the theater long time before the "Ballad".
The
first row is 600 dollar ticket a seat and I heard a stupid one tried
to take a photo and was immediately taken ... out!
I
move quickly out and run to the bus terminal to catch the 109 bus
back where Olivia (my CS host) will pick me up and drive me home.
That
was again an excellent show!
Good
night Bobby!
XXVIII
12th of November Philadelphia.
It
is Sunday in Philly, like anywhere in the world, I suppose.
But
here the library and stores are opened.
The
city buses are running.
At
5 p.m. it is time to catch the bus 109 to the Tower Theater.
The
weather is slightly better, less wind so less cold.
Barron
suddenly appears behind me.
I
keep on bumping on him!
I
spot Charlie and George walking by. I just say hello.
It
never occurred to me to ask for an autograph! A kiss?? Ah!ah!
By
6 p.m. people are queuing. Don't ask me why, anymore.
Scalpers
and poor souls seem to look for tickets, but I will be the first one
to get one from 2 young girls.
I
get in and find myself on the floor. Not too close but not too far!
The
seat on my left is empty and will be the entire show.
I
am ready for Mavis.
She
sure warms me up. She is talkative tonight.
I
run to the bathroom to find a queue. As much as I hate it....I need
to go.
I
run back to my seat.
The
2 seats on my right are now empty and will be until the end.
Mavis
Staples Fans who hate Bob Dylan!??
Stu
is on. The first row is up, and will be up the entire show.
Plus
the second and third row center.
It
is the first time on that Tour people don't seat.
I
don't mind since the stage is high and I have a perfect view.
But
to my surprise the sound is not as clear as last night.(from my
seat).
I
won't do much of my karaoke for I do have folks in front of me who
might not like an 'echo' for every song.
Bob
is picking up on the vibes from the front. He is doing a remarkable
"Summer days".
Unfortunately
as Bob is Bob he can overwork his enthusiasm and he is doing a weird
"Tangled up in blue" . Blu.ue.ue! Rapping more than
singing.
As
I am ready to start "Soon after midnight" I recognize the
first note of "Scarlet town ". Thank you
Bobby! It is refreshing.
"Desolation
row " is sooo good that he's got some kind of an ovation.
The
show is far from being sold out but at least the Fans present are...
Fans.
Few
will move during the performance to get a drink and it is good news!
"Thunder
on the mountain " is “orageous”. George, (my
little Georgie)will get some applause. Charlie will get his moments
of glory on "The Early roman kings".
The
first rows are making the difference and I wish I could be there. But
I
have to seat or I will be "crucified".
Better than
the previous night.
Bobby
was taken by the Public and did more than just a great performance.
He enjoyed himself.
As
I walk out to the bus terminal Bobby's bus passes in front of me.
Night,
night Bobby!
Sweet
dreams.
XXIX
13th of November Washington D.C
I
arrive at Union Station, noisy and crowdy.
I
walk to my Hostel.
Unfortunately
a bad reception from the guy at the desk and I find myself in a dirty
place ; the kitchen is filthy and worst is the shower room.
The
dorm room is warm, mixed with boys and girls.
I
go to the supermarket to buy some food and go to bed early.
XXX
14th on November Washington D.C
Wake
up early, take a shower.
I
walk all the way to the venue The Anthem , by the Wharf.
I
arrive at 9.30 a.m. and Nahoko, the Japanese fan is already here!
Too
early.
So
we go for a cup of coffee until 11 a.m.
When
we go back to the venue Jeff is around. I know him from the past.
As
I had bad experiences with him I keep my distance. (He is V.I.P.
anyway)
Another
Japanese guy, now living in New York is on the stairs also.
We
chat for a long time....until early afternoon when we go to Schacker
Shacke for a bite.
The
line starts to form at 3.30 p.m. I make sure Nahoko is first and I am
supposed to be second. But as usual I don't have any ticket yet.
Price is 75$. Way too much for my budget.
With
a capacity of 6000 and not Sold out, I am confident.
It
starts getting cold but not so much as to be frozen.
The
Japanese guy is nice to offer us 2 girls to check our
small bags in his hotel, so the security search will be faster.
By
5.30p.m. I start searching for a cheap ticket.
Immediately
I feel the problem. There is no scalpers around, meaning security is
tough. 3 kinds of security ; the Anthem staff, the police and the
area security.
A
fat jerk dressed in 'chicken color' jumps on me and scolds me away
"you can't do that here, it is a private property ". So
what! (Do I think!).
I
put my sign paper in my pocket.
At
6 p.m. I look sadly the first line running in. I lost my position!
Some
V.I.P. yuppies are getting in first. But at 300$ a ticket, they
are nor so numerous.
For
2 hours I play Cat and Mouse with security. I try to be as discreet
as possible asking for an extra ticket, somebody among the 6000,
necessarily has one. And what if I get it? Where is the problem?
Well!
The D.C. citizens seam to believe this is not the way to do it.
They
don't even look at me , least wish me good luck!
I
feel being in another country, another dimension.
That
can't be a Bob Dylan show!
Not
that CROWD of sheep!
At
7.30 p.m. I give up and seat sadly on a bench, looking the flock
getting in, being search and happily 'disregarding ' me.
My
attend to open a conversation went to ... zero. Nullity!
I
disconnect.
But
I can't go back to the Hostel, I need to retrieve my back and the one
from Nahoko.
By
8.15 p.m. there is still a line out. Maybe half the public missed
Mavis Staples. But do they really care!
My
torturer (the chicken cop) is going to eat in a fast food and this is
my only chance now.
I
pass by the left over of the line, some 20 folks.
One
guy says "yes, I have an extra". But he asks
"how
much do you want to pay?"
"How
much do you want?"
"50?"
"No
way"
"40?"
"No"
"How
much do you have?"
I
pull 10$, I happened to have in my pocket.
"OK"
To
be cruel he adds
"I
have another extra"
F.ck!
I
walk in as security asks for an I.D. No wonder it took so long to put
all the sheep in!
Bob
is on for " Summer days".
The
crowd is packed in the front but behind the real Fans , the others
are just here for fun : talking and drinking.
Half
laughing, half crying, I do my karaoke as those D.C. jerks now look
at me with despise.
I
am a freak, so what!
Bob
and The Band are doing their "job".
The
show is not different than any other show but for me...
The
worst of all.
I
walk the hour walk to my Hostel rapidly as I am TERRIBLY angry!
I've
seem the face of the Trumpists at a .... Bob Dylan show!
Soooooo
sad!
XXXI
16th of
November Boston
Boston
Vs. Washington.
Boston
wins.
Arriving
on a rainy day.
Chinatown
is near by.
I
left most of my belongings in Philly, going back there right after
the show.
I
found a CS host but too far from the downtown area to bother as I
have a Megabus from Boston to Philly at 11.59 p.m.
I
spend time in the public library, first of all to get dry, second to
figure out about the Beacon shows.
I
may have a CS host?!
To
go or not to go? That is the question.
Nahoko
is in Boston also, at a Hostel and agree to keep my bag in her place.
Thanks
a lot.
The
reason is, though my bag is small, it is still too big for the
security.
I
catch a metro/train at 6 p.m.
It
is raining now.
People
are queuing to get in???
I
am not the only one looking for a free ticket.
We
are 4. No scalpers though.
The
woman is the first one getting a free ticket.
The
2 guys are friendly.
One
of them will get 3 free tickets, the other one 2. And he hands one to
me.
Whoa! Thanks
guy!
And
a really good seat; row I ,on the side of the piano.
I
go in to get warm and dry.
That
was so easier that Washington!
I
am squeezed between people, a little bit too much, but I have a good
view on the stage.
Some
Fans are enthusiastic and refuse to seat. They don't block my view so
all is fine.
My
feet are wet and cold, so I will make them dance (discreetly ) on the
rhythm of "Summer days" "Highway 61" "The
Roman kings" "Thunder on the mountain "....all the
Rock songs.
Bobby
is in Black and White, still. A bit obsessive/compulsive!
Or
just in a mood of B and W.
Tonight
the Boys match with white jackets.
The
venue is full and the public respectful and warm.
I
see a lot young (students) in front, dancing joyfully.
What
a change from Washington! !
Too
bad this is all seating!
Bob
drinks a lot (a cold?) and look behind his back.
But
no one is seating there. The rows of the far right and left on
balcony had been closed.
He
delivers all the songs with power.
No
more " September of my years" but
"Soon
after midnight" and "Scarlet town" which I prefer,
being Dylan songs.
I
focus on Bobby's face. He looks tired and as pale as a ghost.
His
walk is more and more "jumpy". Other than that he is slim,
even skinny.
I
wonder what his life is all about off stage and off his Tour bus?
Writing?
Painting?
I
move rapidly out to join Nahoko, retrieve my bag and run to the bus
station.
Right
on time for a night bus.
I
will skip Albany and Buffalo shows.
XXXII
20
– 25th of
November New York
Things
happen in strange way!
I
finally made it to New York.
I
found a Couchsurfing host with the need of housekeeping for a week.
Precisely the week when Bob is playing at the Beacon theater.
The
house is 7 minutes walk from the Theater.
Couldn't
be any better.
I
arrived on Saturday skipping Albany and Buffalo shows.
Spent
a whole day on Sunday...resting.
The
weather is cold and windy but I have a home and can do about what I
want besides feeding the cat and the dog.
XXXIII
So...Monday 20th
of November.
I
take a walk to the Beacon theater, just to check the
place.
I've
been here before.
I
still have sour memories but I finally moved on.
I
am here for the Bob Dylan shows.
I
take a couple of photos and turn around the block as...
The
Bobby's bus is pulling in next to the backstage entrance.
A
British guy is standing there, on the pavement.
He
starts telling me all kind of craps; Bob is in the bus, he will do a
soundcheck (at noon?), he is staying at the Beacon
Hotel....bla bla bla.
I
heard so many gossips, rumors, speculations...
I
am sick of it.
I
come back late afternoon, most likely the time for the
soundcheck.
Charlie
is pacing, smoking a cigarette.
A
white van is pulling in with Mavis Staples musicians. (I don't see
Mavis).
Another
white van with the rest of the Band; Donnie, Stu, George and Tony.
Then
a silver van with Barron and Bob.
Bobby
steps in his bus for few minutes then enter the venue for the
soundcheck.
I
move back to my apartment.
Come
back at 6.15 p.m.
There
is already a line at the doors.
Many
scalpers (I've seen before), more persons asking for a
free ticket.
Roadies
and musicians and Barron are walking by...no one pay attention!
Why
should they?
I
bet Bob could walk around...anonymous.
The
line is longer and longer as security is tough again; metal detector.
I
have my sign up for 1 hour when a young guy comes to me and hands me
a ticket. "you won't sell it? " He says. "Of course
not".
Thank
you.
I
join the line and by the time I am in, Mavis is already half through
her performance. Bad organization!
The
theater is splendid but the seats are tight. Not too much room to
dance around!
The
public is eclectic; I see men with kippa, women
with fur coats but also youngsters in casual clothes.
My
seat is on the floor in the far back.
The
view is good and the sound...loud. The loudest, so far.
Fans
around me are enthusiastic at the start, though there is hardly any
room to stand up or clap.
The
Bob Dylan old songs are welcomed but as he is singing more and more
the new material, people next to me leave for a drink or the
restroom! I feel them getting...bored. Behind me, some
disrespectful ladies chat on the Sinatra songs.
"Thunder
on the mountain" makes people wake up from some torpor.
2
ladies behind me react to "Tangled up in blue" only when he
is phrasing
"Tangled
up in blue.ue.ue"... they apparently didn't recognize the song
under the new melody.
They
are disappointed not to hear. .. " Hurricane".??!! (And I
thought we were done with that!).
As
a surprise we have " Full moon and empty arms" instead of
"Scarlet town". who noticed?
Nice.
I like the surprise!
I
have to say I didn't like is phrasing on " Desolation row".
It
started great then switched into some phraseology, more recitation...
My
opinion only, no judgment.
I
don't see anything special about that show compare to any other show.
The
jacket, maybe, silver color tonight?
We
are in New York, where Robert Zimmerman became Bob Dylan in 1962.
Does it make any difference for HIM?
We'll
see how the shows will evolve.
I
bet he has an apartment of his own, somewhere in New York,
with family?
Good
night Bobby!
See
you tomorrow.
XXXIV
21th
of November New York, New York.
We
wake up slowly in the apartment/studio packed with 4 AirBandBs and 3
Couchsurfers, a cat and a dog.
I
am responsible for the animals (in absence of the owner)so I manage
to feed the little dog, Nina, who is not cooperative! The cat, Tango,
is a sweetie(actually, he's bigger than the dog)!
We
also have cockroaches and mice, but they are not supposed to be fed!
There
is a Christmas market by Union Square and since the weather is nice I
walk all the way to South Manhattan by Broadway.
I
feel confused and disoriented in Time Square. What a "jungle"!
I
remember having had a good time with my friend John-Paul when we came
here after a Bob Dylan show....millions years ago!
I
bought a slice of pizza(about the only food affordable).
Prices
are rocketing in New York.
The
Christmas market is nothing special. I have the same one at home.
Art
craft but also "junk".
I
take the subway back to home, walk to the Beacon to see Bobby and his
Band getting ready for the soundcheck.
They
are definitely not staying at the Beacon Hotel.
He
is extremely discreet ; sneaking inside his bus, then to the
backstage door.
Walk
back home to feed the animals and get ready for the evening.
By
6.15 p.m. I am at the Beacon doors.
I
crisscrossed with Barron. (Always bumping in him!)
He's
off duty as Bob is sleeping in his bus by now.
Not
so much a queue as last night. The sign says "Sold out".
I
don't trust the sign and truly I don’t care.
The
scalpers are aggressive in New York. I try to avoid any conflict.
I
am just looking for a good soul with an extra ticket.
I
feel the crowd more "distant" tonight, less happy and
joyous as yesterday.
The
venue policy is the same; search and metal detector. Plus a group of
heavy armed security, right in front.
Do
we need that deployment of Force? What will they do against a
"maniac"? I feel more scared with than without "security".
In
Japan they learn martial Arts , just to neutralized the problematic
folks.
In
Israel they use psychology.
Here
it sounds more like provocation!
The
line is forming at 7 p.m.
By
7.30 p.m. Mavis Staples is on but a bunch of folks will definitely
miss the opening act.
I
hope they didn’t pay the 600$ front row ticket!!
We
are about 10 looking for a free ticket. We are easy to
recognized; the right index up in the air.
By
8.20 p.m. I join another guy, Joe, and we start chatting about ...
Bob Dylan.
2
women seem to be waiting for someone.
Joe
asks "by any chance, do you have an extra ticket?"
"Yes"
one of the ladies says "and maybe 2, as my cousins are not
coming".
Whoa!
"Predators"
try to buy those tix but the Lady is firm "I already promised
them" she says.
Thanks
sooo much.
It
is 8.20 p.m. but they want to smoke a cigarette. One is visibly
intoxicated.
I
press them to get in as there is still security to pass thru and Bob
will be on time.
They
stop at the bar but with Joe we run to our seats, all the way up, on
the third balcony, as Stu takes the stage.
A
miracle! Thanks my "precious Angel", under the sky!
I
have a view on the top of the piano. Pages are displayed; the
setlist and apparently lyrics of the songs, as Bob is turning some
pages after each song.
He
is dressed in a white jacket.
I
spot the statues ; one on the right side (by the piano), the other
one, all the way on the left side (on a speaker). The Oscar is here
too, but maybe not the beads.
During
"Pay in blood", a woman, in the far left side of the stage
is taking a bunch of photos.
A
professional photographer or a member of the family?
Joe
asks me constantly what will be the next song.
Luckily
Bob doesn’t change the setlist! Ah!ah!
Exactly
the same as yesterday. I see Bob talking to Donnie and Tony just
before "Full moon and empty arms ". It might be that they
have more options at that moment, right after "The early Roman
kings ".
The
sound is as loud as yesterday, particularly on "Thunder
on the mountain".
Joe
is enthusiastic as far as "Highway 61" then he is loosing
interest.
Disappointed
with "Tangled in blue" and lost with the songs from the
2000s.
"Desolation
row" brings a standing ovation from the crowd.
And
the solo drumming by George on "Thunder on the mountain "
is warmly applauded.
My
row is all empty by "Autumn leaves".(was half empty all the
time anyway).
Most
of the public is not familiar with the setlist or the songs ;
applause are heard before the end of "Why try to change me now"
and "Full moon and empty arms".
It
doesn't disturb Bob, who is doing is performance.
"Blowing
in the wind" is welcomed as Bob Dylan's anthem by now. The
LEGEND was on, tonight.
His
Salut is weird ; hands up and bending on his knees.
I
had the feeling, but just the feeling, that his back was hurting him.
And
I wonder why, oh why he is doing it!
The
photos show him skinny and tired!
My
feelings are mixed ; happy to see him on stage but sorry he has to do
it in pain!
Thank
you Bobby.
Good
night and see you tomorrow.
XXXV
22th of November New York, New York.
I
stay in bed longer.
Today
it is the day the Zoo entrance is free.
Each
day in New York, a different museum is free.
I
walk Central Park, North and South, West and East but do not find any
zoo.
The
horses, birds, squirrels and dogs are the only animals I saw.
Since
the morning a throng of people are concentrating towards Central
Park. I ask the reason " this is the balloons' parade.
They
will inflate the big cartoon balloons for the parade tomorrow".
Alright.
I
just walk the opposite direction, towards the Beacon.
The
traffic is dense.
But
the Boys and Bob arrive on time for the soundcheck.
I
have a ticket tonight, thanks to Nahoko Abe.
I
don't have to be early at the doors, but I don't want to miss Mavis.
It
might be the last time I'll be able to see her as I will need to
search for a ticket on Friday and Saturday.
I
am in at 6.45 p.m. to avoid the queue and just chat a little while
with Catherine.
My
seat is on the floor, the last row.
That
will allow me to stand up and I won't be disturbed by anyone talking
in my back. Cool!
Mavis
is ... Mavis.
Great
Soul.
She
brings Joy, Happiness, Inspiration and Positive....vibrations!
Stu
takes the stage.
I
am up from beginning to end.
Focusing
on George who is incredible tonight.
Well!
Maybe because I am paying attention to his ‘playings’.
The
best drummer in the world, I am sure.
The
cell phone policy is strange.
Many
people have their cell phones open and up during Mavis show.
I
ask a usher why.
She
says only during the Bob Dylan performance, the phones will need to
be turned off.
But
the restriction is not strong.
Many
folks take photos. The girl next to me is obviously recording and it
annoys me to see the light on her phone.
She
came to the show just to...tape??
The
audience starts to "get tired and bored" by mid-show,
moving out and in.
But
"Thunder on the mountain" brings the entire Beacon UP.
Calming
down with "Autumn leaves".
Bob
seems again to be in pain, holding his left hip with his hand. But
who knows? It might be just an "attitude".
I
run out just before the end. ..
but
Bob is already gone.
How
he did it?
Mystery!
Good
night Bobby!
Happy
Thanksgiving!
XXXVI
24th of November New York, New
York.
Black
Friday, they call it.
It
is the day the stores are selling their goods.
I
hate shopping. I never go to any fancy stores but ... my shoes are
ruined for so many walking. So now ... it is a necessity to have a
new pair.
Even
a "minimalist" should have a pair of shoes in winter time!
Go
early to Old Navy store and I buy clothes for my grand son.
Won't
hurt to have extra shirts and pants for a toddler.
I
go to the 'folly' at Macy's, check the shoes and rapidly walk out.
They
sell cardboard shoes for ... 80$!
A
Black Friday indeed!
Finally
I found a reasonable price at GAP. 50%off, and I want to believe it's
true.
Walk
back home and rest for a while.
By
late afternoon I go by the Beacon and check the backstage door just
on time to see Bob walking in ...incognito!
I
bump into my good friends David and Kim, who offer me a big meal.
Whoa!
The first real meal for a while.
I've
been eating corn flakes for few days now.
Thanks
guys!
Go
feed the cat and dog I sit for, get dressed warm and go again to the
Beacon.
Again
a "precious Angel" gives me a ticket before the show so
I'll be able to see Mavis, who I still enjoy.
Inside
the venue I chat a while with some Fans I've known on Facebook.
A
lot Bobcats came for those shows on Weekend in New York.
From
Europe even.
Some,
I prefer to avoid!
I
take my seat, on the floor, left and in the aisle.
My
"neighbor" is a Fan from Japan and the Lady in front of me,
recognizes me from .... Thakerville! Whoa! I'm famous?!
I
am in a fantastic spirit.
I
see a bunch of V.I.P. folks emerging from the backstage door, taking
seats.
Don't
recognize any one; friends? Family? Celebrities?
I
enjoy every single moment with Mavis but it is Bob I am impatient to
see.
The
public on the right floor is enthusiastic, thanks to
Nichole who will be up the entire show, up in front row.!?
My
side is more reserved.
I
am doing my karaoke, who cares if I sing out of tune?!
Bob
seems to enjoy himself and he brings the entire Beacon UP on "Thunder
on the mountain ".
The
performance is great.
Thanksgiving
and the turkey didn’t distract Mr Dylan a bit!
He
probably missed the Balloons parade and the Black Friday!
Smart!
I
walk back home rapidly.
I
just want to keep my good feelings clear and pure for myself.
Good
night Bobby.
See
you tomorrow.
XXXVII
25th of
November New York
Last
show of the Tour, last show of the Year 2017!
I
am all by myself now in the apartment with the dog and the cat.
I
cleaned the kitchen in order to be using it :
just
cereal/coffee in the morning and pasta later on.
I
take a walk in Central Park, quiet and refreshing.
In
late afternoon I join with Nahoko. We both go to a Chipotle
restaurant and I treat her and myself with a heavy burrito.
We
walk to the back stage door of the Beacon to watch Bob stepping in
for the soundcheck
Not
that I consider myself a stalker as I am extremely careful not to be
seen by Bob himself.
I
always respect the security guards and they respect me.
It
just gives me a warm feeling to see that my Hero can be dressed as
casual as any man and just walk as any ‘mortal’.
If
by chance he comes to me like in Copenhagen (maybe by pure curiosity)
I am suddenly paralyzed and I don’t have much to say.
Nahoko
has the same attitude, so we get along.
Time
to feed the animals, change cloth and back to the Beacon.
I
must SEE that show, no matter what!
Well!
Not that easy.
10
more freaks are also in despair for a free or cheap ticket.
The
scalpers are extremely aggressive.
By
8.15 p.m. I am literally crying.
When,
suddenly, I remember the last time at the Beacon and … the smoking
area.
The
door, in the back of the Theater, is opening to a smoking area, right
on the street.
I
rush there as if I was running for my life!
I
snick in, between the rails, right before the security arrives to
check on the ‘bad guys’.
I
am the only one to be ‘so smart!’.
This
is the intermission between Mavis and Bob : 20 minutes break.
I
hold in my hand the ticket from last night. Who will check the date?
I’m
IN. But where will I find an empty seat?
It’s
truly SOLD OUT tonight.
I
move rapidly to the 3rd balcony
but I find no empty seat easily accessible.
I
stand with my back against the wall, making sure not to disturb any
one.
I
start to relax when Stu takes the stage.
The
Usher asks me to take my seat and I murmur I can’t, due to a back
problem.
He
will be ‘human’ and he will let me stand there the entire show.
Miracle
of Miracle!
It
might be the show I enjoyed the most.
A
vague of content and warmth is invading my body and my head is light.
It
must be what we call HAPPINESS.
Can
happiness happens only after a harsh feeling of despair?
Bob
and the Band are far away but at the same time I am , over there, on
the stage, with them, oblivious of the crowd, not even remembering
which city or which country I’m in.
The
show didn’t change for the 5 nights at the Beacon!
All
the best for me as I can swim in the words and music I know so well.
Bobby,
as usual, will bow to the front public but also, and I find it
remarkable, he will lift his head and arms to the balconies ,
remembering that not all Fans can afford a 500$ ticket.
I
take that salute for me and the “children of Paradise”.
Goodbye
Bobby!
This
is not a farewell but an ‘au revoir’.
XXXVIII
26th of
November Philadelphia.
As
I was staying with Olivia in Philly she proposed to have me longer
with her in order to have some works done in her house.
I
then, switch from Couchsurfing to HelpX statute.
HelpX
is a program of volunteering, an exchange ; the guest works 5 or 6
hours a day in exchange for board and food.
I
move back to Philly to stay with Olivia until the 9th of
January.
I
spent there the Christmas and New Year festivities.
I
worked some, read some, did some Art Craft (not so much painting!),
watched some TV….
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