PART
TWENTY SIX
Bob
Dylan Tour Asia and Australia/New Zealand.
7/27/18
Seoul, South Korea
7/29/18
Yuzawa-cho, Niigata, Japan
8/02/18
Taipei, Taiwan
8/04/18
Hong Kong
8/06/18
Singapore
8/08/18
Perth Australia
8/11/18
Adelaide, Australia
8/13/18
Melbourne, Australia
8/14/18
Melbourne2, Australia
8/18/18
Sydney, Australia-
ICC Sydney Theatre
8/19/18
Sydney, Australia-
Enmore Theatre
8/20/18
Wollongong, Australia
8/22/18
Newcastle, Australia
8/24/18
Brisbane, Australia
8/26/18
Auckland, New Zealand
8/28/18
Christchurch, New Zealand
The
Asian Tour seems complicated to organize as there is only 1 show for
each city.
I
decide to start my Tour in Adelaide, Australia.
Beside
being a Bob Dylan Fan I belong to some international organizations ;
Couchsurfing (hospitality), WWOOF (willing workers on organic farm),
HelpX(volunteering for accommodation and food).
In
between the Bob Dylan tours I volunteer to save up some money on
electricity, water and food.
I,
then, find a farm in north of Adelaide willing to host me for two
months ; June and July before the beginning of my Tour in Adelaide
the 8th of August.
On
arriving in Melbourne I find a Couchsurfing host who will pick me up
at the airport and feed me for two days.
I
take a bus to Ritchie's house (also a couchsurfing host) in Adelaide
, also for two days and two nights. And also Ritchie is feeding me.
Ritchie and his community are dumpsters diving folks, meaning they go
to the back of the food stores to search in their dumpsters after
closing time. So, we are fed with bread, donuts, veges, fruits … no
one is supposed to die of starvation in the wealthy countries.
Massoud
will pick me up at the train station to give me a ride to the farm.
Here, too, solidarity is working good.
Peter
and Deborah are a retired couple. Peter was a pastor for the Lutheran
church and decided to work now on his father's old farm. They built a
new house on the top of the hill and live there with Deborah's mother
who is 92 years old. The house runs on solar panels energy and is
rain water provided.
They
raise 130 sheep and decided to reforest the land with specific
Australian trees, mostly eucalyptus.
HelpX
is a website where volunteers can find hosts, then the 'rules' are
define between the protagonists.
Peter
and Deborah offer me to stay in my own shack, a little house with all
comfort, located 400 meters away from the main house. Deborah
proposes me to have lunch every day with the family and provides me
with food for the rest of the meals. This fits me perfectly. The only
problem will be the Internet connection. There is no connection,
except near the house.
The
farm is isolated, the nearest village is Robertstown, 7 kms away. I
will not move from the farm, except three times when I go with
Deborah to shop and one time when we all three go to Adelaide for a
movie.
My
routine is to get up around 7 am with the sun rise, to have a light
breakfast and start my shore.
Work
on a farm is diverse ; cutting wood, working on the sheep fences,
sorting the tools, moving stones from the falling stone old house
walls, attending the sheep (castration of the lambs), planting the
trees.
I
work 5 to 6 hours a day and spend the rest of my day reading books.
From
Peter and Deborah I learn about the Aboriginals for they have been
missioners in the North for four years.
The
story appears to be the same as for the Native Americans in the
States, sadly.
After
two months of that routine, and not meeting much people outside the
family, I feel that I need to move.
With
the accord of Ritchie I will move back to Ritchie's house in Adelaide
for the last two weeks before I hit the road.
These
two weeks are refreshing as I don't need to work, though I help with
the organization of Ritchies airBandB.
I
visit Adelaide and think about flying to Perth for the first show in
Australia.
The
flights are extremely expensive so I renounce.
I
Adelaide
11th of August 2018.
Bobby
and his Band are first announced in the Botanic Garden. Truly I don't
know where they were planning to plant a tipi!
They
moved to Bonython Garden. More space for a circus. More wet too!
A
huge tent on a swampy ground!
There
is an opening act ; Vance Joy. Known to the locals.
I
was hoping for him to give a warm homage to the Nobel price of
literature 2016, with all respect but... Mr. Joy is focusing on the
empty seats in the front of him.
I
do believe the VIP folks didn't spend 500$ for Vance. I have the
feeling he missed the point by talking too much. He didn't win my
consideration.
By
some miracles I have 2 tickets but the Good Samaritan who gave me the
V.I.P. made my night, my week and my month!
Thanks
GS!
The
seats are tight, feel like flying low coast.
But
the view on the stage is incredible. Right in front the piano. 5th
row back. The stage is low. No one in front of me , a lot behind!
Of
course I know by now there will be no center stage for there is no
more...Sinatra songs!
For
good or for bad, only God knows.
But
for me, simple mortal, it's for good.
Back
to a Bob Dylan repertoire.
8
p.m. sharp.
Stu
is strumming his little tune. George, wearing a hat, is taking his
position. Nothing changed. I see the Oscar, the statue bust....maybe
the beads? Not sure!
The
stage is heated.
1)
“Things have changed”.
He
must love that song. Me too.
Though
it was not the opening in Seoul.
The
voice is loud and clear. Dressed in B&W. No hat. A baldness
sometimes apparent. A dying of the hair. Slim and elegant.
The
piano is turned sideways. My seat on the right gives me the view of
his weird way of sitting on the piano bench, at the limit of balance.
He
is wearing the same boots. Must love those boots!
2)
“It ain't me Babe.”
Relatively
new on the set and giving his point.
"You
just want a lover and nothing more!"
But.
It ain't him!
No
change of the lyrics. No change of the melody.
Yet!
3)
“Highway 61”
A
bit of scriptures' twist. Unless H61 was near Jerusalem 3 000 years
ago!
It
rocks the gigantic Tipi. We should make the Sun dance, but no, it's
not the goal.
It's
warming my body. Here, you can stamp your feet as much as you can,
all you'll get are.....wet feet!
4)
“Simple twist of fate.”
And
Yes! The harmonica is back. All for the best.
Timid
applause from the crowd who doesn't know how lucky they are.
No
harmonica in Europe!
Thanks
Bobby! You heard my concern.
5)
“Duquesne whistle”
Perfectly
executed but not so much enthusiastic.
Good
performance by the Band. Sweet swing!
I
tight up my body. Focus hard.
6)
“When I paint my Masterpiece”
For
me the first time live on that Tour.
Beautiful
surprise. Great choice.
For
me, the highlight of the night.
Today
I feel the melody....tomorrow I'll focus on the lyrics.
7)
“Honest with me”
Truly
not my cup of tea.
I
can't be IN, neither musically, neither wordily.
Maybe
someday!?
8)
“Trying to get to heaven”
The
crowd is not confused with Desolation, they understand English.
Not
my cup of coffee.
Sad!
It
doesn't fit the Bobby on stage who looks young and fit.
And
we all want to believe that HIS Heaven is far away!
9)
“Make you feel my Love”
His
Adele cover? Ah!Ah!
Maybe
she ruined that song for me.
Can't
feel it. Though I did go to the ends of the world for him! Literally.
10)
“Pay in blood”
He
changed the melody.
Too
much slow. Not enough anger.
Don't
like this one.
11)
“Tangled up in blue”
Same
comments as above.
12)
“Early Roman Kings”
Yes!
Waking up the crowd.
A
crazy Fan on my left rings a bell when Bob spits out
"My
bell still rings"
I've
been told that that kind of bell actually doesn't exactly rings!
It
depends on your point of view!
13)
“Desolation row”
The
one that takes me in another dimension.
Maybe
he didn't paint his masterpiece (yet)
But
he certainly wrote it!
For
This one only , he deserves the Noble.
The
public is not mistaken and this is a crowd ovation.
But
as the security doesn't allow a standing crowd , everyone politely
sits down.
14)
“Love sick”
I
do karaoke on that one. Swallowing every single word.
15)
“Don't think twice”
No,
no, no.
I
hate when he's trying to raze his voice at the end of each phrase.
Doesn't
work for me. I prefer his deep growling tone.
16)
“Thunder on the mountain”
Rapid
and well articulated.
Of
course it's Georgie's moment of glory.
Bravo
George Recelli!
17)
“Soon after midnight”
Sweet
melody.
I
do Karaoke on this one as well.
18)
“Gotta serve somebody” (revisited, for the lyrics)
By
now the hard core fans around me are on their feet.
Security
can't fight 10 enthusiastic and peaceful fellows!
They
let go and I enjoy a great collaborative homage.
Bob
hears us and slightly turn towards us. Oh!oh!
He
looks happy.
We
try a stage rush but security is tough!
And
why?
They
just disturb the Peaceful
"Blowing
in the wind"
We
refocus on Ballad and all ends well.
What
a day! What a night!
Thanks
folks.
Thank
you Bobby and His Band.
Good
night. See you soon.
II
8/12/18
Melbourne.
For
accommodation on my tours I am now using the Couchsurfing community.
I
reach through the website, for each city, about 10 hosts. If I am
lucky I can have 2 positive answers. Sometimes I don't have any
positive answer, in that case, my plan B is to book a Youth Hostel or
at times use AirB&B.
Couchsurfing
is free, meaning no money is supposed to be asked. It is an exchange
between persons who like to travel. The staying is mainly short, 2 or
3 nights, but sometimes it could be longer, like with Ritchie. The
comfort is according to the host way of life; from a private room and
bathroom to a mattress on the floor.
My
concern is always to figure out how to reach the place, before the
show and more important after the show. I don't have a budget for a
taxi so I have to organize either to walk, either to use the public
transportation.
My
new host in Melbourne, David, is willing to visit me in Adelaide and
to my relief will give me a ride from Adelaide to Melbourne.
We
have a 12 hours agreeable ride, but as soon as we are home, we crash
and sleep until late.
David
is a beautiful host and will drive me around Melbourne to visit the
city. David is also a big eater and as he eats most of his meals in
restaurants I will be well fed. Few times I will pay the bill, being
careful of my budget.
III
8/13/18
Melbourne.
I
caught a train from Glen Waverley to Richmond station.
20
minutes walk and I spot the Margaret court Arena.
It's
6 p.m. and some folks are already waiting at the door.
The
temperature should be 10 Celsius (at least this is the way I feel).
I
start looking for a ticket when a woman literally runs to me.
-
"I have 3 extra" she says
-
"thank you, I need only one"
She's
over enthusiastic.
After
she had sold the 2 extras we enter the venue.
Our
seats are on the balcony, extreme right. I know I will see the back
of Bob at the piano. Fortunately we will have a good view of the
stage , so tonight, I will see the Band clearly.
The
venue is huge (Bob's standard), maybe 5 or 6 000.
Bob
takes his position on the piano, white jacket and black pants.
I
expect the setlist to be unchanged from Adelaide, so I am ready for
the songs one after another.
The
public is polite but never over enthusiastic.
My
Good Samaritan doesn't recognize the songs and even makes a comment
on the bad quality of his voice. Oh!oh!
But
it is true that the sound, here, is not the best.
At
some point the words are mumbled, particularly on "Duquesne
whistle".
From
another point of view, the show might be excellent.
The
fact that Bob is at the piano at all time doesn't give a chance for
the fans who have a "bad" seat to have a good view.
Sometimes even completely obscured by some elements.
My
view is certainly not all the best, at no time I will see Bobby's
face. But I will clearly see some baldness at the top of his hair.
If
I listen to the recording of that show it might be excellent but this
is not the way I feel.
But
Bobby seems to be happy and bow to the public, join by the Band, at
the very end. The only time he is actually facing the public.
A
good show, no doubt about it, but not my ever best.
My
Good Samaritan gives me a ride back to my Couchsurfing host.
All
for the best.
Thank
you all the good people.
Good
night Bobby. See you tomorrow. Same place, same hour.
IV
8/14/18
Melbourne.
I
catch the same train as yesterday but half an hour later.
Really
soon a Good Samaritan hands me an excellent ticket. The seat is
second row on the extreme left.
The
view is the opposite of yesterday.
I
see Bobby's face at all time, except when the light spot is in my
eyes.
Stu
and George are hidden by the stage elements.
Bobby
enters the stage and immediately walks towards me. Oops! Not exactly.
But towards Stu and George. He chats with Stu before taking his
position at the piano. I am pretty sure by now they will start with
"All along the watch tower". But I am wrong. It is "Things
have changed".
For
some reason unknown to me the 5 persons on my right are moving away.
That left me alone on the aisle of the second row.
Awesome!
Now
Bobby is playing....in my living room. So I feel.
I
am ready for a good karaoke party and a good dancing.
But
at no time I will stand up to dance. It's against the policy, it had
been all over Europe already. Where it's coming from? Only God knows.
But the venue security will not let anyone (even the front rows)
standing up.
I
am a Peaceful person so I will not fight. I'm just bouncing on my
proper seat.
Bobby
is a bit nervous tonight, passing the stage from right to left,
chatting with Stu or George or Tony, murmuring something to Charlie.
His
walk is more like a trotting. At some point I do believe he didn't
start the singing on time. But to my surprise, there is no changing
in the set.
The
same "old" songs but to me a lot more powerful than last
night.
The
harmonica is great, even on "make you feel my love"! (As
you know by now, not my cup of tea!).
I
still don't get the slow motion on "Don't think twice it's all
right" just as I was getting used to "Tangled up in blue".
The
public will stand up for "Desolation row " and "Thunder
on the mountain ".
I
hear the ringing of the bell as Bob states "my bell still rings
".
The
same Super Fan is following.
Not
a single move to the stage for the encore, not even the first row.
Another
collective bow, as it seems that Bob gives some kind of signal to the
Band members.
I
enjoy my personal self! It was me and Bobby D. tonight.
I
walk rapidly to the train station, suddenly remembering where I am;
Melbourne Australia.
If
only the dream never ended.
But
what this a dream?
Good
night Bobby. Safe flight to Sydney. 3 days rest...in Peace.
V
8/15_16/18
From Melbourne to Sydney
David
decides to give me a ride to Sydney,
We
are supposed to spend two days and one night on the coast road to
visit some nice areas.
Davis
suggests to sleep in the car.
But
at the last moment the news are bad ; some bush fires are blocking
the coast road and we have to use the free way. On the top of it the
night in the car was a bad idea as the temperature will drop to -5
Celsius. I am literally frozen in the morning, I didn't sleep well
just dozed few hours.
I
am not in a good mood when we reach Sydney. David also decided to
drive right back to Sydney and I have to figure out how to reach my
new Couchsurfing host late at night, for he will be playing Celtic
music in a club that night.
I
drop my luggage at the train station locker and walk to the Opera.
All
together I have a nice afternoon before joining my host at the club.
My
bed is in the kitchen of a small house and I immediately fall asleep.
Another
CS guest, Loïc, is sleeping on the floor. Loïc is French. He
hitchhiked all the way from Marseilles to Sydney and soon back to
Marseille through Perth, China, Russia.... Whoa! This is adventure!
VI
8/18/18
Sydney.
The
first show in Sydney is in a huge venue by the harbor.
I
spend all afternoon roaming and enjoying myself.
After
three hours of struggle to find a 'friendly' ticket, at 8.30 p.m. I
renounce.
The
crowd is not friendly.
I
lost my spirit.
VII
8/19/18
Sydney.
Enmore
theater.
The
day starts a 9 am. The concert is GA and I forgot. But I didn't plan
to queue. I usually don't anymore. But some Fans I know are in the
line and I decide to join. I am given a number, 12. so I am the
twelfth in the line, which doesn't mean any thing for I don't have a
ticket. Supposedly GOLD to be in the pit.
By
now the crew members are putting on the stage, as I know it happens
every day of a show at 9am.
My
chances are slim for a ticket before 6.30pm (opening of the doors)
and according to everyone slim all together.
Well.
I am tired to explain that a small venue plus a sold out show don't
mean anything for my plan. It's all a question of luck and
circumstances.
Don't
I, ME, know that?
It
is weird how people explain to me how to get a free ticket. It would
be like me explaining to a fisherman how to fish.
Each
person is limited to its own world. Hard to be open minded, hard to
learn a lesson from others, hard to have empathy.
I
don't explain to anyone how to buy a front row ticket for 600$.I have
NO idea how it works.
This
said I go on my way.
On
and on I have a pleasant afternoon :the sun is shining, I grab some
food and manage to control my cold and cough.
By
late afternoon I spot Bob and his Band getting in for the sound
check.
I
wish people could believe me on that too but.....it's not important.
Just for me a little treat if I can't get in.
By
5.30pm they regulate the line and it starts to be too much for me.
I
still don't have a ticket.
I
suddenly feel like going home to rest and forget the crowd folly.
I
walk away.
But
I do need to get a ticket to see the show. This is why I am here.
I
forget about the rail, getting in is now the only objective. And
finally I don't want to be on the rail. I Don't fit there.
After
the floor had been admitted, the seated patrons start entering by the
other door.
Paradoxically
those are a lot more friendly. They even TALK to me. woah!
Some
extra tickets are available. For now a bit too much expensive.
15
minutes before show time when my mood is a lot better and my spirit
much higher a young boy proposes a ticket for 50$. I accept. The
value is 239.
My
position is strange. We are a bunch of Fans in the foyer, meaning
right next to the bar and merchandise stand, outside the main venue
but above the whole public.
My
chance is that the couple next to me is over friendly. The man is
impressed by my 400 Bob Dylan shows since the 78's. I don't impress
much the Bobcats anymore! It is My moment of glory! Everyone needs
one.
We
play a game;he will try to recognize the songs and I will approve?
We
have fun until Bob decides to change one song in the set list....
Bob
appears all in black, including the boots. Oh oh.
1
"Things have changed"
is
strong.
His
voice is groaning, a bit tired but he is forcing the sound out. He
wants to impress the standing crowd.
2
"It ain't me Babe "
is
perfect.
3
"H61"is powerful. I watch George who seems to be
particularly hard and loud.
4
"Simple twist of fate"
I
am tired of it.
5
"Duquesne whistle "
is
mumbling and I do believe he did a mistake in the lyrics at the end.
My
friend is good but at some point he murmurs to me "will he stand
up and pick up his guitar?".
I
say no.
I
feel a little disappointment.
It's
true that from our position, the view on Bobby's face is limited.
6.
"When I Paint My Masterpiece "
exceptional.
And yes, everything will be different when I paint my masterpiece.
I
will have money for Bob Dylan ticket shows.
7.
"Honest With Me" .
No
comment
8.
"Tryin' To Get To Heaven"
No
comment
9.
"Make You Feel My Love."
Nice
harmonica at the start.
10.
"Pay In Blood ."
Would
be better center stage.
11.
"Tangled Up In Blue "
Tired
of it.
Then
my friend asks me if he will do ERK. I say , yes. Luckily he didn't
change this one!
12.
"Early Roman Kings."
great.
George is really good tonight.
Oh
oh oh
It
doesn’t start like Desolation row. .....
13.
"Visions Of Johanna"
Beautiful
surprise. And the first rows know what they get.
My
good friend asks for "love sick" and...he will get it.
14.
"Love Sick"
15.
"Don't Think Twice, It's All Right."
I
start to appreciate it.
16.
"Thunder On The Mountain"
I
dance for there is no restrictions where I am, standing in the foyer.
17.
"Soon After Midnight. "
Sweet.
I cry on this one. I've been sick and depressed all day.
18.
"Gotta Serve Somebody" (Boogie Woogie version)
It
is a new arrangement and it swings good. I hear some people singing
along.
My
friend asks if it is the end.
No.
2 more.
He's
funny. He trusts me.
(encore)
19.
"Blowin' In The Wind"
20.
"Ballad Of A Thin Man"
It's
all over.
It
was a show much appreciated by me 'cause so hard to get in.
I
was very happy to find my good friend who absolutely wants to take a
photo of me with his wife. He says he will write a story about me.
Whoa!
I
feel appreciated.
I
rapidly move out. I walk back to my couchsurfing host 2 blocks away.
This
was the best show out of 4.
Of
course according to my personal experience.
VIII
Wollongong
Australia 20th of
August.
From
Sydney I catch a train to Wollongong in the late morning.
It
will take one hour and a half of a pleasant ride.
The
weather is fine and I want to take a chance to see the sea.
Stepping
outside the train station in Wollongong already gives me a strange
feeling.
It
is too much empty and too much quiet.
But….where
are the people?
The
half hour walk towards the beach confirms that feeling ; an empty and
ugly city.
At
the end of the road there is some kind of light. The ocean is of a
blue/green color and the sand is white.
Spending
some time along the Ocean is refreshing for the soul.
I
spotted the venue on the way. It is one of those huge stadiums.
Efficient for the capacity but nothing more.
The
afternoon is passing by nicely. Alone but not in loneliness.
The
Aussie Bob Dylan Fan club arrives in the late afternoon.
There
is an arrangement to bring some Fans back to the city of Sydney after
the show. A bus is supposed to be rented and the expenses share among
the patrons. The plan is not too clear with me, a bit of
confusion….50$ for a trip that coasts 8$ on the train? Going to the
central station anyway?
My
plan B is to catch the train ; 10.23pm or 11.23pm?
And
the Aussie Bob Dylan Fan club walks to the ….Bar.
This
is when I feel loneliness.
And
no, I am not a teetotaler. I just don’t get intoxicated before a
show. What the point? I appreciate the music with all my body and
clear mind.
I
don’t mind a sweet glass of white wine or a delicious beer ….after
the show. If my schedule gives me that opportunity.
By
6.30 p.m. the crowd slowly moves inside the building.
We
are only few folks looking for cheap tickets but my luck is running
out of me.
I
don’t have neither the look, neither the spirit of arguing on my
reasons why I don’t go to the Box Office to buy one.
By
8 p.m. I am the only one out, desperate now to get in.
The
same scenario happened and this night 3 times ; a nice looking, well
dressed woman comes to me and says yes , she has an extra.
-“How
much do you want to pay?”
My
sign doesn’t seem to be explicit enough, or maybe they just don’t
read it. I mumble that I don’t have much money. Immediately they
are on the defensive, taking a mean attitude and expressing with
their face and body that no, they don’t like beggars, then move
briskly inside the security checkpoint and venue WITH the extra
ticket. Wasted , anyway.
Though
I know the scenario by now, it always gives me some desperate
emotion. Why? Oh Why?
The
last Lady “excused” herself by saying ; “but I paid 200$ for
it”. And? I don’t deny it is an expensive purchase but why
trashing it on the top of all?
By
8.15 p.m. I know Bob is on stage for I hear the sound from inside.
My
mind floats for an instant ; do I wait for a miracle? Do I move now
to the train station, back home?
This
is when I dearly miss my friend Ben. Ben! oh! Ben! were are you
tonight?
When,
coming from nowhere, I spot a young Lady, certainly outside the
normal set of patrons ; she’s loaded with ...books!
She
addresses me with a high pitch of voice.
I
feel suddenly an immense relief. Though she is ‘weird’ , she is
certainly SMART. I picture her as an Asperger ; person with a high
level of intelligence but a bit on the side concerning sociability.
Am I in that spectrum too?
We
chat for about 10 minutes. She talks mainly about her encounter wit
F. that “Gypsy”(?) girl from Italy following Bob Dylan all around
the world (and no, she’s not me, and I am not her, for ME, I DO GO
to the shows! I am a Fan, not a stalker).
That
smart Lady figures out , right away, there is something wrong with
all F.’s stories.
As
we exchange some news about F. I keep my eyes on the late folks
coming in and keep alert for any sign. I spot a group of 4 girls
laughing and running late. I immediately move to them.
-“
by any chance do you have an extra ticket?”
-”yes”
-”Do
you mind if I walk in with you?”
I
kind of force my chance, but by now I’m totally desperate for
anything. My so called friend starts a trouble but I can’t do
nothing and I feel this ticket is for ME. Sorry Lady!
We
rush to the seats. Those girls are laughing and I don’t feel
comfortable about disrupting the show.
By
the time we settle down Bob is finishing “Duquesne whistle”.
The
girls keep on chatting, obviously not coming for the show but just to
have a good time together.
As
Bob is in the middle of “When I paint my Masterpiece” the girl
next to me starts talking to me.
It’s
a bit too much and I signals her I need to listen to Bob. Sorry.
I
focus as hard as possible on the stage. We are far away on the top of
the Arena.
Bob
is doing good.
I
appreciate each one of the songs for I know I could have missed them
all.
We
appreciate what we had, when we don’t have it anymore!
Even
“Make you feel my love” sounds good. He didn’t start with the
harp though.
“Pay
in blood” appears also better when I stop focusing on the lyrics
and try to catch the groove.
On
the “Early Roman Kings” I pay attention to Charlie’s guitar.
And
as I am ready for “Visions of Johanna” I recognize the intro of
“Desolation row”.
A
slight stir from the audience but nothing spectacular.
I
am wondering what kind of public we have tonight since he did already
2 shows in Sydney, only 2h ride away from here.
“Love
sick” make the girls on my left react. They do know the songs, or
some of them.
I
am a polite listener tonight ; no karaoke, no dance. A mix feelings
of sadness and happiness. Of course I’m in but I did pay the price
, I payed in blood (and my own).
“Thunder’”
doesn’t bring the Fans up. Maybe some aficionados in the front.
“Gotta
serve somebody” is remarkable. Definitively the highlight of the
show.
I
still have to figure out the lyrics...something about being in Las
Vegas and having Fun????
I
murmur to the girl on my left that I will have to move now for I need
to catch a train so, move rapidly outside the venue. I thank her VERY
VERY much.
I
step down by the exit door and listen and watch the final 2 songs.
Bob
and the Band make their bow and I spot a rebellious Charlie. Not
bowing properly!ah!
I
walk fast and catch my train to Central then a metro to Enmore. I
will be in bed by 1 a.m. Not too bad!
No
trouble with Bobcats or Fan Club or any bullshits.
On
my own again. A freewheeling
IX
August 21.
It was a pleasant journey all the way from Sydney to Newcastle.
A slow train but clean and quiet.
My couchsurfing host John, waits for me at his house.
A large house all white and spotless. I have my own private room and bathroom.
John is a Yoga teacher. Everything in the house as at atmosphere of Zen ; peace and rest.
My first night in Newcastle is refreshing.
X
Newcastle.
August 22.
It's
a new morning and the sun is shining.
Perfect
day for a walk on the beach.
I
spend the first part of the day all by myself but not lonely.
I
stop at a beautiful "cultured cafe" decorated with
Aboriginal paintings. I buy a little gift for my grandson. Load
myself with cappuccinos. Chat with a young Lady telling me all about
Aboriginal languages.
I
stroll all the way to the lighthouse and back in the company of
birds.
By
5 p.m. it's time for the second part of the day.
Tonight
I decide to dress up. I bought myself a new pair of pants, new shoes,
new jacket....all at the Salvation Army for few bucks. Why waste
money when it's not necessary and what about doing a good action?
I
even comb my hair differently and add some earrings.
I
feel good and confident.
I
walk the 25 minutes walk to the venue.
It's
a huge arena with an inside court where to buy food and drink.
There
is only one narrow entry. It's my chance.
I
put my sign out. Is it me or the people ? But I feel joy and
happiness. Folks are kind, smile at the sign or wish me good luck.
It
takes me only 20 minutes before a handsome gentleman says yes, he has
an extra ticket. We chat with good humor and finally walk inside
without thinking twice. I believe Gerard didn't really want to try to
sell that ticket. Maybe just find company.
We
are on the side, up on the left, which give us an excellent view on
the stage and piano.
Not
too long before Stu strums his tune and the Band and Bob appear.
Bobby's
voice sounds tired, less clear, more like a mumble. Some of the
lyrics I don't know, I can't make.
He
will sing song after song without moving away from the piano, hardly
communicating with Charlie and Tony, not smiling with Donnie.
He
looks tired...
I
observe the scene between the stage performance and the public.
It's
like there is a wall in between, a dichotomy. Though some fans seem
to enjoy the Rock songs, it doesn't affect the musicians. They are
way too far from the audience, all in the dark. Every time a song
ends and some super fans stand up....the lights go down and Bob turns
his back, oblivious of the reactions.
I
focus on
"Don't
think twice."
The
first 3 verses are sung by Bob at the piano. Hardly any sound is
coming from the guitars. George is off, relaxing is back against the
box behind him. Then a bridge with Bob on harmonica and George and
the guitars pick up and they accompany Bob for the final verse.
Interesting
try for an intimate song.
But.....the
venue is not the right one? Or his voice is not so clear?
It
doesn’t operate any miracle.
I
am sure some didn't even recognize the song.
Gerard
is happy. He has definitely a great time.
I
can unfortunately compare with other shows and this is not the best
one.
"Gotta
serve somebody" is my favorite. I try a timid sing along...serve
somebody!...but no one around me is reacting.
They
came to see the Icon, the Legend, the Nobel.....not the Rock star.
Gerard
proposes to drive me back home.
We
have a good laugh.
XI
Brisbane. 23 24 of August.
Brisbane. 23 24 of August.
I
decided to book a youth hostel after an exhausting night 12 hours
train.
I
arrive too early to check in. Left my luggage at the locker and go
for a visit of the koalas' sanctuary.
I
am disappointed. They are caged more than anything.
Back
to the hostel.
I
relax in a 4 beds dorm, but we are only 2 females. Nice and quiet.
I
take the train to the entertainment center.
I
arrive early. The arena is huge and in the middle of nowhere.
Literally in the woods.
I
pull my sign out.
I
am all by myself, but I am confident.
Until
a security guy barks at me that I can't do that here, either I go,
either I buy a ticket.
Alright.
I feel much uncomfortable so I decide to buy a ticket.
109$
oh well! I'll eat potatoes for the rest of the year!
The
seat is far away in the back of the arena, I will try to snick in a
little bit closer.
And
I do find 2 empty seats row 50 or so, on the aisle.
I'm
nervous for the 3 first songs. I don't know if the seats will be
claimed. But they will remain empty to the end.
For
the 2 first songs the sound is muffled. I am ready for a common show.
Ordinary in a big venue.
When
I'm ready for a sing along "Duquesne whistle " I see Donnie
on violin and they start one I LOVE ; "summer days", a
honky tonk version.
Fantastic.
I believe Bob was tired of Duquesne.
The
next so gs are alright but just before "love sick" Bob
moves to George, exchange some words and grab the center mike.
The
most fantastic, powerful "Love sick" I ever heard. The Band
is picking up the energy.
All
the songs until the end will be powerful. Bob just electrified the
stage.
Like
the;
y
all had a shot of caffeine.
"Thunder"
is amazing when Tony, Charlie and Donnie regrouped to give a sort of
ovation to George on his drum solo.
I
dance on my seat, with no refrain.
The
public will react here and there.
They
recognize the first notes of "Desolation row".
But
nothing like hysteria.
Same
non passionate crowd!
Of
course they have no comparison to make.
But,
ME, I know it's a great one.
Second
best after Enmore.
I
catch the train to the hostel.
For
some reason my night is agitated; dreaming of being hated by all ,
security, fans, crew people (I don't talk to anymore).
And
that line popping up in my head ;
Everything
gonna be different, when I paint my Masterpiece!
Is
saving my sanity.
Thank
you Bobby for that special show. You must have known that I paid for
it.
XII
From
Brisbane to Auckland.
I
arrive in late morning at the airport in Brisbane on the 25th of
August.
At
the check in counter I am embarrassed not to be able to produce the
prove of my return ticket to Australia. The nice guy wants to make
sure I will not be staying forever in NZ (or in jail!).
I
finally find my confirmation email among a bunch of others
confirmations for my trip.
When
I sigh a relief I spot on my left....Bobby's security guard. I turn
around and see the entire Band queuing to check in.
I
move to Tony and Stu, just to thank them for the good performance of
the last show. But they look at me coolly, as if I'm out time and
place!
Of
stage they might be ordinary people. Or I don't have the right look??
For
I spot another Fan in big conversation with Donnie!
Oh
well! I'm just a Bob Dylan Fan. A freak!
I
will fly with the Band, plus the road manager and security guy.
Of
course, they are business class.
And
no, Bob is not in that plane. He's flying his private jet. Possibly
with his assistant and body guard.
I
reach my Couchsurfing host home by train to figure out he is turning
a nice house into a private youth hostel.
He
offers me dinner, wine.
We
all watch a rugby match before going to bed.
XIII
Brisbane
25th of August.
I
take a train to the harbor in early afternoon. Also the area of the
venue: the Spark Arena.
It's
an agreeable quarter but nothing spectacular.
I
prefer the Fisherman Wharf in Frisco, my favorite ever.
By
5pm I check around the venue. Of course no "beat the street"
buses.
As
they are all flying from city to city, they use vans to get to the
show.
At
6.30pm they open the doors of the Arena.
I
am now suspicious of security people so I stay away from the entrance
and find a spot on the street where folks are passing in mass.
A
nice man asks what I'm looking for.
"A
ticket for the Bob Dylan show?"
Then
he disappeared.
Another
man gives me a 5$ bill. And I think that could be useful.
Another
man says "yes, I have an extra ticket. How much do you want to
pay?". I put out my 5$. He laughs and walks away.
Buy
now I am used to that attitude. I block my hurt.
25
minutes later , the first nice man runs to me and hands me a ticket
and disappears again.
Thanks
Good Samaritan.
I
am now in and decide to take my seat. I want no trouble with
security.
I
am all the way up, up facing Bob on the piano.
20
minutes layer the nasty guy who didn't want my 5 bucks is taking his
seat on my left.
Oh
whoa! So finally I got his extra ticket and for....free.
8.04
pm at my cell phone clock.
Stu
takes his position.
Bob
is in white.
By
some trick of the stage disposition, the spot light behind Bob is
reflecting on the piano, reflecting in my eyes. I don't see Bobby's
face at all.
But
I hear him clear and loud.
The
first few songs are alright.
After
"simple twist of fate" Donnie seats at the steal guitar.
It
should be "Duquesne whistle " but he suddenly he picks up
his violin and that will be "Summer days". Not as
spectacular as in Brisbane. But nice for me.
No
reaction from the crowd, even the first rows on the floor.
Song
after song Bob is professional but he's lacking the electricity and
the energy from Brisbane.
"Love
sick" will be center stage to the immense pleasure of the
audience. They finally react, maybe not to the song but to the fact
that we finally see Bob in full.
"Desolation
row" has a nice touch.
And
"Don't think twice" is better posed, no voice effect. Just
plainly phrased.
The
highlights are ERK, LS.
I
start liking TUIB.
Don't
mind MYFML.
"Put
your hand in my hand
Don't
have any fear
I'll
make you sure you won't get wet"
Or
was that in TUIB??
The
final bow is not synchronized, Charlie is the rebel!
That
was a nice show. Professionally done.
Lacking
of power and with Bob sounding a bit tired.
The
public as cold as possible.
I
walk to the train station to realize I had just missed the last train
to Sunnyval, 40 minutes away by train so some 2 hours and a half
walk!
I
start panicking as my cell phone in NZ is not functioning.
A
Lady at the train station directs me to a bus stop I have difficulty
to find.
The
nice Lady driver has no idea how I could reach Sunnyval.
Another
driver picks up in the conversation.
"Yes,
I know where it is but my bus is not going all the way there."
Oh
well! As close as possible then I'll walk?!
That
wonderful man says he will take me all the way to my place.
And
he did. He gave me a ride on the ....city bus.
Thank
you Good Samaritan.
Many
thanks and blessings to the Auckland Metro bus drivers, particularly
Joe.
XIV
Christchurch
28th of August.
For
economic reason I will fly from Auckland to Christchurch on the 28th
of August, the day of the show.
Hopefully
my good Star will be with me and all will go well.
The
flight is 20 minutes ahead of schedule.
Good
omen.
The
bus from the airport is dropping me straight at the Youth hostel.
Second good omen.
I
take a walk in the city. All devastated by an earth quake few years
ago, the buildings are either damaged either in reconstruction.
It
gives an air of .... after the apocalypse.
But
I feel a good karma. The walls are covered with street Art, murals.
The
streets are large and clean.
People
are super kind. There is a feeling of hope and good will.
After
checking in my dorm I take a long walk towards the Horncastle Arena
passing by the botanic garden.
By
6 p.m. the area is....empty.
It
is again one of those sport arenas, next to a ball arena of some kind
and next to a horse track.
Only
one cafe is open.
I
hesitate for a short time about "begging" for a ticket. I
want to be happy tonight, no stress, no panic, no security
harassment. ..
So,
against all my logic and resolution I find myself buying a ticket at
the box office.
Oh
what a sensation! To feel like all the rest. I keep preciously my
112NZ $ ticket in my hand. Feel the relief of being rich.
I
walk inside early to be away from the cold.
Take
the pleasure of passing by around the hall, again and again.
Is
this ME or another ME?
The
seat is not the best but it's mine! I don't shit and seat on the
balcony, behind the piano.
I
was chatting with a young guy who expected to hear "like a
rolling stone". I tell him it would be most probable. ...what a
fool I am!
They
all come on time.
Stu,
George, Tony, Charlie, Donnie and yes Bob.
There
is an empty seat on my right, all for the best.
1.
Things Have Changed(Bob on piano)
Good.
The sound is correct.
I
see Bob from up right. I have the feeling he had a new hair cut! Must
be the light.
2.It
Ain't Me, Babe(Bob on piano)
I
focus on Bob, never leaving my eyes out of him. Try to see him as a
25 years old. From far, it does the trick. The body didn't change,
just the face which I don't see.
3.Highway
61 Revisited(Bob on piano)
A
good reaction from the audience. At least some freaks behind me, who
paid 92nz $ for a high perched seat.
4.Simple
Twist Of Fate(Bob on piano with harp)
The
harp is welcome. And Ben must have been right when he said there was
no medical reason for Bob not playing any harp in Europe.
5.Summer
Days(Bob on piano) (Honky Tonk version)
Honky
tonk, blue grass, ragtime?.....I'm not sure. Donnie is wild on
violin.
6.When
I Paint My Masterpiece(Bob on piano with harp)
I
feel the phrase
"Everything
will be different when I paint my Masterpiece"
-
money
-
recognition
-
respect
7.Honest
With Me(Bob on piano)
Even
if it is one least of my favorites, tonight I appreciate.
8.Tryin'
To Get To Heaven(Bob on piano)
Maybe
this is what I'm doing too, running after the time.
9.Make
You Feel My Love(Bob on piano with harp)
I
sing along. Definitively not the way Adele is doing it.
Plus
that line about not getting wet. A parabola?
10.Tangled
Up In Blue(Bob on piano)
No
big voice effects, all for the best.
11.Pay
In Blood(Bob on piano)
Clear.
12.Early
Roman Kings(Bob on piano)
George
and Charlie are fantastic.
I
don't hear the bell in the public. Gone!
Tony
and Charlie grouped around Bob. Could be for consultation on the next
one.
13.Like
A Rolling Stone(Bob on piano, Tony bowed double bass)
(new
arrangement with slow passages)
Oh
my! Immediate reaction from the audience.
And
I scream the verses
"How
does it feel
To
be without a home
With
no direction home
Like
a complete unknown
Like
a rolling stone?"
14.Love
Sick(Bob center stage)
Excellent
performance of Bob playing with the mike and bending on his knees. No
static position on this one!
15.Don't
Think Twice, It's All Right(Bob on piano with harp)
Bob
is now full of energy.
16.Thunder
On The Mountain(Bob on piano)
Of
course a great solo by George, back up by the 3 musketeers; Tony,
Charlie and Donnie.
17.It
Takes A Lot To Laugh, It Takes A Train To Cry
(Bob
on piano then center stage) (heavy blues)
I
don't recognize this one at first.
Bob
is center stage again with all power.
He
is taking pleasure to challenge the public.
Even
though most of the fans don't know it's a treat they appreciate a
fantastic performance, well synchronized by the Band.
18.Gotta
Serve Somebody(Bob on piano) (Boogie Woogie version)
As
good as always on that tour.
I
wish for "Forever young" but that would be greedy.
(encore)
19.Blowin'
In The Wind'(Bob on piano)
20.Ballad
Of A Thin Man(Bob on piano with harp)
Bob
leaves the stage rapidly after the last bow.
I
follow him with my eyes, he's trotting out.
Must
this be a goodbye and not a farewell!
I
hesitate for 4 seconds : to go down the floor and say goodbye to the
crew people and meet with the Bobcats?
I
decide to keep on a good feeling.
The
crew people seem to perceive me as an enemy more than anything else.
As
for the Bobcats? ...
We
never discuss anything much before the show.
I
wear the coat of the forever beggar.
Don't
have the physic of M.
Don't
have the chat of I.
Don't
have the desire to get drunk.
Yes,
I feel like a
ROLLING
STONE.
The
Tour is over.
I
feel liberated somehow.
I
am now just a tourist.
Since
I am already in New Zealand and I still have few days before my
flight back to Paris from Melbourne I will return to Auckland by bus
and ferry. There is a ferry to catch between the two main NZ islands.
I
will spend a night in Wellington, at a youth hostel.
I
relax all the way in the bus to Picton. I enjoy to see the landscape
through the window of a bus I don't drive.
I
catch the ferry. The transfer is three hours and I start a nice
conversation with a 'kiwi' couple returning home.
I
have few hours to rest in Wellington Youth Hostel before catching
another bus all the way to Auckland.
The
ride is 10 hours long. This is the most relaxing and agreeable part
of being on the road. I could stay in that bus forever...
But
that bus will stop at the station in Auckland.
I
go back to Sid's house (CS host) for 2 days before flying to
Melbourne.
I
go back to David's house (CS host) before flying back to Paris then
Shanghai.
I
was supposed to catch another flight to Beijing, then Paris.
But
the first flight is late. After a moment of panic I find out that the
Chines attendants, thought not so much polite, are efficient. A young
Lady find me a flight from Shanghai to Paris. I am much relief.
The
flight is long but smooth. The food is not the best but … it is
food!
A
metro and another low coast bus later, I am home.
All
together that trip Downunder was a success, nothing terrible happened
to me.
The
cities I've seen were 'civilized' , so were the people.
My
regret is not to have been able to go up north or to travel in the
wilderness.
Downunder
looks pretty much like a Western civilization, like Europe. Except
the kangaroos and the koalas, slowly disappearing.
Globalization
is turning the world 'look alike', 'think alike'.
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